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Everything posted by Harry P.
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You did it right!
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Yeesh,one step atta time!
Harry P. replied to george 53's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Copy the third line of text below the picture in Photobucket ("IMG Code") and paste that into your post here. -
OK guys, here goes nuttin!
Harry P. replied to george 53's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
The way you're doing it now, we see a small thumbnail image, that gets bigger when you click on it. That way is fine, lots of guys post pictures that way. But you can post bigger photos (not just thumbnails)... each picture in Photobucket has three lines of text below it. Copy the third line of text (the one that says "IMG Code"), and paste that into your post, and we'll see the "big picture"! -
Where did you learn to paint like that? It looks perfect!
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OK guys, here goes nuttin!
Harry P. replied to george 53's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Ay caramba!!! George is posting pictures!!! -
As far as the decals being stuck to the instructions, I think you're out of luck. I don't know any way to remove the decal sheet from the paper instructions without ruining the part of the decals that's stuck onto the paper. You might try putting them in the freezer a while... maybe the cold would weaken the "stick", but I'm just guessing. Can't hurt to try, though. On the windows, you can polish out the imperfections easily. If the imperfections are slight and not deeply etched into the plastic, you can try polishing compound to remove the marks. If they're deeper or more severe, sand them out with some fine sandpaper. Then sand the piece with finer and finer grits of sandpaper until the "glass" is smooth. At this point it will be translucent, not crystal clear. Bring back the clarity with some rubbing compound, then polishing compound, then finally a little wax. The trick is to remove the imperfections with the finest grit compound or sandpaper that'll do the job, then go through progressively finer and finer grits until you're back to clear "glass." It's kind of a pain... lots of sanding and polishing, but if you intend to use the kit glass, there's no other way. Personally I'd make new "glass" out of thin clear acetate sheet using the kit glass as a pattern.
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That photo's not a whole lot better...
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Final vote: 20 Real, 27 Model. It's REAL! Ha! Got you again! Next ROM coming MONDAY!
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Great craftsmanship on the wood work...
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painting whitewalls on tires??
Harry P. replied to lowriderphil's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
I paint on whitewalls pretty much the same way that hotrodasaurus does. Mount the tire on some sort of mandrel, chuck it into a power drill, turn down the speed so it spins nice and slow, then flow the paint on. I use craft store acrylics (the kind that come in the little 2 ounce squeeze bottles). Since the paint is applied by holding the brush still and applying the tip of the brush to the spinning tire, any brush strokes are concentric circles and aren't noticeable. Acrylic paint will take several coats before you get good coverage... don't try to get total opacity in one coat, it'll never happen... -
Holy cow! Billy Kingsley builds something other than NASCAR??!!! Very cool. Nice color, nice job. I like it...
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Opinions needed please
Harry P. replied to 69*Goat's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
The answer to your question is pretty simple. Do it the way the "real" car is done. Real race cars don't have clear applied over the sponsor decals. -
Nope, I'm not Polish. Otherwise I'd be the "Killer Kielbasa"...
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There's no way I could compete with the "Mexican Chorizo"...
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Whatsamatter, George? You can't get any work here in the US????
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If it's not too late, I'd suggest a center peak along the hood to continue the line you have along the roof/tail of the car.
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The lunatic is in my head... The lunatic is in my head... You raise the blade, you make the change, You re-arrange me till I'm sane. You lock the door, And throw away the key, There's someone in my head but it's not me. George, I'll see ya on the dark side of the moon...
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Real or model? The answer: REAL!
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1941 HOLLYWOOD GRAHAM - Posted for George 53
Harry P. replied to E St. Kruiser50's topic in Model Cars
Geez Dave... first the Retrovette and now this? To paraphrase Led Zeppelin... that's a whole lotta talent! -
It's a phantom. Started out as a Pocher Rolls Royce. The chassis has been lengthened to accommodate a straight 12(!!!), built from two Pocher Mercedes straight 8 engines joined together.
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O.T. Any advice on this situation?
Harry P. replied to Willy Survive's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Well, I figure I might as well add my 2 cents here... First of all, given the economic times, you're lucky to even HAVE a job. There are millions of people unemployed right now (unemployment is currently around 8% and climbing). Many companies are in trouble, and layoffs/cutbacks are their only chance for survival. As fas as your company being "evil", think about this: ANY company, no matter what the product or service, exists for only one reason: to make money! If a company can't make money, they go out of business. (or now they get a government bailout ). Your company is reassigning you not because they're "evil" or because they want to screw you over... they're doing it because it's in their best interest, financially, to do so. No company exists to harass or screw over their own employees... that would be counter-productive and harmful to the company itself. Your choice is to either accept the situation, or go elsewhere. Sorry if that sounds uncaring, but it's the reality of the situation. Your personal needs (daycare schedule, etc.) are not really the company's first priority. Their first priority is their own continued success. Some companies can acommodate their employee's personal needs to some extent, other's don't... or can't. Finally, George mentioned something about companies considering their employees "work whores" or something like that. My take on that is this: the company had a job opening. You accepted the job and the terms that the company offered you. It was your choice to accept (or reject) that job... nobody held a gun to your head. Your obligation to the company is to do the job they hired you to do, and their obligation to you is to pay you for your work at the rate agreed upon. That's the extent of the "contract" between employer and employee. If the situation, for whatever reason, changes to the point that it's no longer acceptable to you, for example, a pay cut, you have a decision to make: accept the new terms or move on. You can't blame the company for doing what it has to do to remain a viable company. Let's face it... if they go under, ALL the employees (and owners) would be out of work. They aren't cutting your pay because they are "evil", they're doing what they have to do to stay afloat in the current economic situation. I'm sure you're not the only employee affected. Times are tough. People are going to have to make tough decisions. I hope things work out for you. -
Close vote! 20 "real", 18 "model"... But I gotcha! It's a model! Next ROM coming MONDAY!
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heads up for the new BMF
Harry P. replied to LVZ2881's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I agree. I've had old sheets of BMF for years, and the foil always stuck. But something happened to the product several years ago, and ever since then, the stuff cracks on the sheet and/or doesn't stick well. And the "Ultra" chrome and black chrome just don't stick at all. Obviously they changed something... the glue formulation, the backing paper, something... because the stuff just didn't work any more! The strange thing is, at first the BMF people refused to acknowledge that there was any problem. They told me that the foil not sticking was MY fault! (that I was applying it wrong, or whatever. Strange, since I had been using BMF for years prior to that... obviously I KNEW how to use it!) Now the story I've heard is that they are "aware" of the problem, and are working on a solution. Well, I guess finally admitting that there IS a problem can be seen as progress. But the real question is: Is the stuff that now has the "NEW" sticker on the package actually a new formulation? Or the same old stuff with a sticker on the package? I haven't bought any of this "NEW" BMF yet, so I can't say...