Harry P.

So? Did Danica do anything newsworthy?

Something is way out of whack. The front end is much too high. Look at the front of the car... there are cutouts where the front bumper brackets are supposed to fit into. On your model those cutouts and the bumper brackets are a mile apart. You messed up somewhere in the building process.

I did. The guy's work is unbelievable.

What does that have to do with anything? The guy tried to make a move, and we saw the result. It can happen in any auto race when there are cars on the track jockeying for position. What in the world does the engine technology have to do with it?

Agreed. And Canada and Australia also seem to have a thriving car modeling culture. But while the plastic modeling crew in the UK may be small, there are some very good builders among them.

And is this where they came up with "Murcielago?"

This exact topic is already open, with 5 pages of posts. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=66498

Her lighter weight is offset by all the baggage everyone is dumping on her.

Awesome! You are a real master craftsman. Maybe I missed it, but how did you create the sidewall lettering on the tire master?

I like it! I think you did a great job on it.

Why didn't you tell us that you were looking for a specific type of tire in the first place???

Final vote: 39 REAL, 11 MODEL. And it's... REAL!

Any graphics software will let you resize an image.

The kinds of putty that you apply directly, by squeezing it out of a tube like toothpaste, dry or harden via evaporation of the solvent (the liquid part), leaving behind the actual hardened putty. Since these putties all dry the same way (by evaporation), by definition they lose a part of their volume (the solvent part) as they harden. Or in plain English, they shrink as they dry. Putties like that ("one part" putties) are really only suitable for very minor work like filling small imperfections and scratches. They are not meant to be used for any kind of major body work or reshaping. If you lay them on too thick, they will not only shrink, but also probably crack as they dry. What you always want to use whenever you plan on laying it on fairly thick are "two part" putties... the kind where you have to mix the putty with a small amount of hardener. These two-part putties do not "dry" or harden via evaporation, they set via a chemical reaction between the putty and the hardener... the same way epoxy chemically sets when you mix the 2 parts together. Because two-part putties do not dry via evaporation, they do not lose volume as they harden... so they do not shrink. Also, once the chemical reaction has happened, the putty is hard, period, unlike one-part putties that can take a long time to fully dry. In fact, it's not uncommon for people to use a one-part putty, do all their sanding and painting, then weeks or months later see depressions on the model, because the putty continued to dry after the paint was applied and the model was finished! Do yourself a favor and stick with two-part putties. Your best bet is Bondo "Professional" glazing and spot putty, which comes in a small tube along with a separate tube of hardener. It can be found at most auto parts stores and sells for about $8 or so. Also... before you apply the putty to the body, sand the area with some fairly rough grit sandpaper. You want to rough up the smooth surface of the plastic so that the putty has something to "grip" onto. If you apply the putty over a smooth surface, there's a chance it might snap off if you twist the body.

Where are the fenderwells? (the inner fenders that separate the engine compartment from the wheels?).

Not up to your usual standards. I realize the kit is overly simplified with a very "soft" looking body, poorly done details, lights molded with the body, etc... and I assume you just built this out of the box with no attempt to make it a better model. But not even a shot at getting that rear glass to actually fit?

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=7

It's the Canadian guys that are upset.

Here's another way to go... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-Tamiya-74067-Bending-Pliers-For-photo-etched-parts-/180882821726?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a1d74d25e

The B pillar needs to be angled the opposite way that it's angled on the resin body-it should be angled back, not forward. The C pillar looks passable, bit that thin glass divider strip just ahead of the C pillar is also angled the wrong way on the resin body... it should angle back, not forward. The vent window divider strip, the B pillar and the divider strip just ahead of the C pillar should all lean back and lean at the same angle. The D pillar is also going to need attention. Notice how on the real car it starts out much wider at the roof, then tapers and gets much slimmer at the bottom; on the model the pillar sides are almost parallel. Also, that little "kick up" where the D pillar meets the body is completely missing on the resin piece.

Please post modeling questions in the Modeling Q&A section... which is where I had to move this the last time you posted it here.

"January 2013." Hilarious!

Both the model and the photos are first rate.

Production moving from New Jersey to Ohio wouldn't be nearly as big of a story as production moving back to the US from Canada. The reason I posted in the first place is that I didn't even know that all Camaros are built in Canada. I had no idea that was the case, it was news to me, and I figured I'd pass along the info. No "reading between the lines" was necessary... although I find it odd that the people who did that and assumed that I was bashing Canada are all from Canada. Maybe you guys don't like the move, but how does me simply passing along a news item make me a Canada basher? Maybe you guys need to stop reading between the lines and just read the lines.

This might be a bit more helpful: