CadillacPat

I have a Talon, It's okay. The Talon is notorious for coming with a scratchy trigger pull so the opening in the body must be filed smooth. It's not an expensive gun so if you purchase it get all 3 sizes of tip, needle and head. The Paasche Talon is light years ahead of their Paasche H. But in line with the Talon, Try the Badger 155 Anthem or Badger 100LG, or an Iwata HP. CadillacPat

You're about 55 years late, CadillacPat

Mark there is so much MISinformation online about making Decals. All it takes is for someone to follow one wrong step to goof up their project. Doing a full size wrap on a car is probaly easier than doing a Decal wrap on a Model. The film for a full size car is strong enough to be pulled, heated and squeeged into place while wrapping a Model with Decal film is a bit more tedious. You're welcome, CadillacPat

I have ordered Decal Paper from Papilio.com and had it arrive in less than 24 hrs, the next afternoon. I order all my House Of Kolor products from HOK in Mississippi or Coast AirBrush in California and both ship quick. Dixie Art Supply in New Orleans ships quick with great customer service. CadillacPat

I use a toothpick. CadillacPat

Real nice Decals on that Canon car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I normally don't even use MicroSol, MicroSet or Walthers exept in extreme complex curves, Like this, MicroSol will weaken after a few years, and Walthers is so strong I thin it with older MicroSol. In most cases neither the Set or Sol is necessary. Here's a link to my Decal Tools thread where you will see a 1/2" flat nylon artists brush. A smooth surface is certainly better than a rough surface for Decal application, however Decals go down easier and less noticeably on top of a Colorcoat before the Clear. The use of the flat nylon brush allow one to sweep the Decal flat, remove all air and water behind the Decal, and actually taper out the Decal edges flat. This one tool of mine will change the way you apply Decals. Just dampen the brush, tap out the excess water and use. Don't use a dry Nylon brush on a Decal, it is stiff and can scratch the ink. Q-Tips, Paper towels and other fibrous cotton textiles used on Decals are a no no. I don't want any fibers that will later show up in the ClearCoat. A sponge (different sizes) and brush are all you need. Start at the beginning of your Decal application by using the right tools to cut out your Decals, in the right manner. Fresh clean Titanium scissors or an x-acto knife (always used at a 45 degree angle to slice cleanly. Clean cut edges on your Decals mean everything towards their final appearance. When you are ready to lay down your Decal lay the entire Decal almost parallel to the surface you are applying it to. Hold down one end and gently remove the paper from underneath the image. This technique leaves less air under the Decal. You can actually watch atmospheric pressure suck down the Decal image as you remove (slide) the paper from underneath. Sponge, then Brush. Solvents aren't always necessary. CadillacPat

If you Google Gauge Faces there are pages and pages of frontal views you can cut out and size. CadillacPat

Where did you hear otherwise??????????????? What you really mean to say is, You can use and InkJet Printer to make InkJet Decals!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

Absolutely Harry, Bach and Beethoven also, you can have your Rap all too yourself!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Go ahead and raise the roof Homie, lol!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

I think that would be for another thread. This one is about using the Rattlecan as is, hence the discussion about the Buttons. CadillacPat

Yes, there is just no substitute for taste. Wonder how many, if any, of the so called "artists" of the last 25 years will even be remembered 45 years after their biggest gig. Bootsy and the Goldfish, Missing Pumpkins, Nirvana scunge music, Madonna, what a joke!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

Very good information and well said!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not every AirBrusher needs a large loud compressor. I purchased my brand new $400 Badger 180-22 Compressor off Ebay for $99, with a Regulator and Water Trap. Many great portable Compressors with and without Tanks can be had for under $125. CadillacPat

If you do choose to use Rattlecans, When you find a can that sprays exceptionally well, keep the spray button from that can and use it on other cans of the same type. Some of those buttons emit nicely formed sprays and others do not. CadillacPat

Lots of prejudicial angry terms like syrup, dipping, and telling people they obviously accept sub par finishes to their models. Still sounds like sour grapes encounters with judges who didn't pick their cars to win. Remember, the Models come in a box, Builders do not. Builders cannot be placed in neat little categories that adhere exactly to supposed rules set by disgruntled Contest applicants. When did building Model Cars, and painting them. become a one way street?? It is ludicrous and shallow to expect people to walk the line and do as they are "expected" to do. Imagine a Model Show (I'd rather Model Shows than Model Contests) where every car was built exactly to one set of standards (whatever standards really means). Boy, wouldn't that be exciting and fun to see------------NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Could some of this just be that some do not wish to set up for Urethane Clears or the so called time consuming task of AirBrushing and the oh so misunderstood task of cleaning the gun? You know, the "ease" of using a rattlecan. Some even speak of the difficulty of AirBrushing Clear, so they don't. A guy just bought the Batmodbile to display in his living room. Does the fact that he will display it in his living room and not the garage make the Batmobile less accurately a car? No, and neither does a good efficient and protective ClearCoat. Throughout this thread I see the same 4 or 5 people telling everyone that their idea of accuracy is the only way to go. Yet I see a lot of other people in this thread who pay no attention to what others attempt to dictate. That's how Model Building is. We as Modelers and painters do not fit into neat little cubbyholes. We can't be told what to do, no matter how many times you repeat yourself in a thread. When you're sitting at your desk building, the one thing that never enters into your mind is some guy whining,"Too much clear" Believing that your own idea of "accuracy" is the only definition of accuracy is rather selfish and foolish. Throughout the course of Automobile manufacturing cars could be ordered in an infinite number of ways with an infinite number of accessories. Any one person's idea of accuracy goes right out the window. I'm glad to see so many understand a good protective coat of clear, especially Urethane Clear, will bring their Models to life. And if you really like that dry look, well it's your money. CadillacPat

How many airline miles do you get for a 1/4 oz. bottle of Testors? CadillacPat

I still say it's in the eye of the Builder. If the Builder wants to Clearcoat it and make the paint and graphics truly come to life, then it's as accurate as can be!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

Nick, Your Guys in Gowns and Booties are a little more information than I care for!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just saying!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

Red Line Uniroyal Tiger Paws!!!!!!!!!! Best looking tire ever made!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

What-t-t-t-t-t-t-t!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now that would really be inefficient judging!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

The fact that you are not "worried" about airborne particulates, grease and other chemicals, has nothing to do with their factual presence. If your glass cabinet has a door on it, then all that stuff is on your Models. Maybe hermetically sealed in a Mayonaisse jar on Funk and Wagnalls porch,---- but otherwise, there's dirt. CadillacPat

That is all an assumption. How would you know that the Judge downgraded your Model because someone else's was "shiny". I would hope that Adults who research and sweat the details, do so for their own enjoyment in hopes of producing a better piece, for their own personal enjoyment and achievement. The correct "shiny" for a project is subjective. And, just because a builder sweats and researches does not mean his talents produce a prize winning Model. Contest are for kids. Adults, some, attend contests to exchange info and enjoy looking at everything on the tables. And of course ther are the rabid ones who must win or go home angry. If a Judge picks your Model as the Winner then he is a knowledgeable well informed builder. If he picks someone else's as the Winner then he is obviously biased and a Clear loving jerk. I'm getting a vibe here that going the extra mile and applying a good ClearCoat is more than some may want to do. CadillacPat

Seems to be a lot of pent up anger directed at Contest judges. Sour grapes. What you must remember is that while some may build with a Contest in mind, the majority of Models on Contest tables are entered to show other people what Modelers have made. People just like to display their work and I don't think Contests or Judges come in to play when they decide to enter their Models. They just want to show what they have done. CadillacPat

Nick, are you aware that the air in your house carries dirt, grease and other airborne chemicals. 10 or 20 years of that takes its toll and will be much harder to clean off uncleared Models than those that have been clearcoated. Don't worry about your outside deck. Dirt, dust and airborne grime is everywhere!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

Make sure to read my "Decal Fixative " Tutorial here, http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=71031 CadillacPat

Before I had a Computer I went to Kinko's and had them copy images on Laser Decal Paper but I still AirBrushed a fixative over the sheet. I've never printed with a Laser machine and some people say you don't have to seal Laser Decals. I think a slight coat of Decal Fixative, whatever brand you choose, would make the thin layer of dye forming the image, a bit more resilient to handling and especially application. If you go with a Laser you might try both ways, straight out the Printer, and coated with a Fixative. I'm sure that the actual printing of an InkJet or Laser machine would be the same, just set for Glossy Photo Paper, Best Settings and hit Print. But, Never put Laser Decal paper in an InkJet Printer. The ink just pools up and runs. Printing will be right after I show you how to Make and Size your images. CadillacPat