CadillacPat

Alternate to running pieces of tape through your Printer, You can divide your full sheets of Decal Paper into smaller pieces. Choosing specific measurements in your Printer Settings allows you to run smaller Custom sized pieces of Decal Paper. If I'm doing a large run of Customs I use a full sheet but I can fit 3 full sets of Sides, Roof, Hood and Trunk on a single 3.6" x 4.25" (6 of these from a sheet of Decal Paper) section for most HotWheels I create. CadillacPat

Duplicolor Clear DAL 1695 is fine for a Decal Fixative, However I use House Of Kolor InterCoat Clear and I use only paper from Papilio.com Here's the Tutorial I put up a few days ago, http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=71031 " Decal Fixative Alternative " Something for those of you interested in making your own Custom Decals------------------ “Decal Fixative Alternative” For coating my Decal sheets as they emerge from the printer I've tried lots of products with good to excellent results. I started out using cheap Painters Place Enamel #20014 in the aerosol can from the spray paint department at WalMart. It wasn't bad and only cost 90 cents. Then I used Duplicolor Clear Lacquer DAL #1695 also in an 11 oz. aerosol can from AutoZone. This was a better product that dried much quicker and thinner for $4.59. Then I used DEFT Clear Gloss Varnish in the 11 oz. aerosol can in the Paint Stain Dept at Walmart, about $5. By far, this is the best of the aforementioned and makes the edges of the Decals disappear after final ClearCoat. However, all I've used for the last 10years is House Of Kolor InterCoat Clear. InterCoat Clear is a product used to protect your art as you lay down progressive layers. It's used to coat an existing layer so it can be taped off without fear of raising the paint. It's also used as a carrier to lay transparent colors or pearl powders over basecoats. Well the results are fantastic. One 1/4 oz. AirBrush cup filled 2/3 way with a 50-50 mix of InterCoat Clear and RU311 Reducer is enough to coat a full page of Decals. It dries to an almost negligible thickness in a matter of minutes. With this InterCoat Clear the edges of the Decals disappear as they are laid down. The extra control of applying the InterCoat Clear through your AirBrush instead of blasting some other product out of an aerosol can gives you the ability to lay down just the barest minimum needed to seal the ink on the Decals. The Decal film remains just as thin and pliable as if there was no coating at all. Nothing is wrong with the DEFT but this InterCoat Clear is giving far better results. --CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--

It is an exaggeration Luke, it usually takes less than a minute. A quick back flush in between paints and colors takes all of 15 seconds. Flushing the gun and wiping the cup and needle should take you a lot less than 5 minutes. At the most 2 minutes. But even if you personally take 5 minutes I don't consider that a waste of time. It boils down to how much you want to put into your projects. From reading RattleCan versus AirBrush posts on many Forums, it is obvious that the AirBrush is misunderstood by a lot of people. AirBrushing, learning the AirBrush, mixing paints, using good Urethane ClearCoats, all are the icing on the cake of Modeling. CadillacPat

It only takes 60 seconds to clean an AirBrush, Less than the time it takes to shake up a can. CadillacPat

Brad, just like I said, the instructions for Rit Dye are right on the package or bottle. CadillacPat

This is much more in line with the reality of how I see this happening CadillacPat

So what happened?? What could possibly have happened in a post or reply that would shut the place down?? CadillacPat

Greg your attempt at comparing this early airplane with 3D printing only supports my opinion. The number of people flying in 1903 is directly comparative with the number of modelers in 2013 who are printing out models with 3D printers. Give it another 25 years. CadillacPat

Who laughed at him??????? I don't remember anyone laughing at or ridculing Roddenberry. We all knew, as did he, that he was writing about the distant future, that's why they called it Star Trek. He was not writing about tomorow morning. I don't see anyone carrying 3D Printers in their pocket that will instantly replicate every single part of a model kit with the simple press of a single button? At this point in time, that is laughable!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! To correct you, it has been 47 years, not half a decade, more like half a century, since the first Star Trek. CadillacPat

First off, what type printer will you be using? What color car will the decal go on? Why not just download the Shelby font and make them in Black from scratch. That's what I did for a Shelby model that a friend wanted to display on his 1:1 Do you have a pic of the Decal? CadillacPat

To avoid a mess when decanting an aerosol can of paint read this, Here's the method I came up with to show other Customizers how to make use of cheap Aerosol paints. I also have it here in an old post somewhere. Toy Car and Model Mag contacted me to ask if they could run it in one of their issues many years ago. You will need a 3" - 4" length of plastic drinking straw, some 1" wide tape, and of course a suitable container. I collect the empty film cans from local WalMart Photoshops. This soft pliable plastic will not react with automotive paints. 1st-----Butt the straw up to the hole in the button of the Aerosol can. In most cases with Duplicolor, the straw will actually slip over a short protrusion in the button. 2nd-----Wrap the tape around the straw and button so they are held together firmly and tightly. 3rd-----Just spray your paint into whatever container you've chosen. The straw will perform like a muffler, choking down the escaping gases and allowing the paint to gently run out the end of the straw. If you're only using small amounts of paint, you can just spray the paint directly into your paint cup. I will add this note. I have an alternate method for removing the paint from aerosol cans when I want to completely empty the can and transfer all its contents to another container. You can of course use my above method to completely empty an Aerosol can but this second method is quicker. Remove the spray button from the can. Shake the can to thoroughly mix its contents. Set the can down on a flat surface. Using a file sharpen a small nail to a point and with a small hammer gently tap a pin hole just inside the lip at the top of the can. A pinhole is all you need. Just barely break the skin of the can. Allow the pressure to fully escape, about 15 minutes. Now similarly tap another pinhole opposite from the first on the other side of where the spray button was. When all pressure has escaped enlarge both holes with a larger nail or phillips screwdriver. These two holes will equalize the air pressure in the can so you may pour out the contents. Now you need a suitable container to hold the contents. You may use any soft plastic container i.e., polyethylene not hard styrene. I choose either Ketchup bottles or Barbecue Sauce bottles. Yeah, I do a lot of Barbecuing around here. These bottles are constructed of soft vinyl like plastic which will not react with the chemicals in Enamel or Lacquer paints. They also come with the benefit of having a small mouth opening so you may safely pour your thinned paint directly into your AirBrush Cup. Gently pour the contents of the can into your new container and leave it open for about 4 hours. Return every so often to swirl around the contents assuring that the gases get released. The paint still contains propellant in liquid form and will create pressure in your new container if shaken. Diluting it with the prescribed amount, 35%, of Paint Thinner will deactivate some of this tendency to bubble up and boil over. I screw on the cap, gently shake the bottle and very easily loosen the cap 4 or 5 times repeatedly to allow all remaining propellant to escape. So here you have methods of removing paint from aerosol cans allowing you to either release small amounts as in using the Straw Method or to completely empty the can and transfer the contents to another container. All my painting is done completely with House Of Kolor products, Of Course!! But I like to give alternate methods so that anyone can get perfect results using products they can easily obtain. CadillacPat

Just remember that you want the highest resolution images you can get. Still, I prefer to enhance the ones I use with color adjustments and tint overlays. CadillacPat

SnowWhite Pearl is my favorite base for Candies. Here's one of a box full of HOK 50th Anniversary Customs that went out to the execs at House Of Kolor, HOK Candy Oriental Blue over HOK SnowWhite Pearl HOK Candy Pink over HOK SnowWhite Pearl, A thinned down HOK Oriental Blue over HOK SnowWhite Pearl, A Convention Charity plaque of Batmobiles all donme in HOK Candies over HOK SnowWhite Pearl, HOK Candy Purple over HOK SnowWhite Pearl, HOK Candy Purple over HOK SnowWhite Pearl, HOK BrandyWine Candy with Red Russet Pearl over HOK snowWhite Pearl, HOK Candy Pagan Gold with Aztec Gold Pedarl over HOK SnowWhite Pearl, Mixed HOK Candy Organic Green and Oriental Blue over HOK SnowWhite Pearl, HOK Oriental Blue over HOK SnowWhite Pearl, More to come, CadillacPat

Do you have the data that proves this? It's difficult to consider that the presence of mobile phone users just slipped by Photobucket when they updated the site. CadillacPat

I don't know what you mean by SP but aerosol Pearls will be very thin right from the can, in case you do get an airbrush. CadillacPat

Let me guess? It's those deadly secret viruses again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Mine works fine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

Kyle you can dye clear plastic windows. Rit dye liquid or powder will do the job. Just don't get the mixture too hot and use repeated dips instead of one long dip to assure you don't warp large pieces of plastic windows. I tint HotWheels windows all the time if I want them a different color than clear. CadillacPat

Nice job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I've always liked using those deep dish Cragars on HotWheels!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

What???????????????

You bet Andy, If you have any questions just ask!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

AirBrush it with HOK Kosmic Krome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Or Alclad!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

Sure Mike, although I don't think I can save you any time. The more you work with Graphics the more time you put into them, to make them the best you can. It pulls you in. I use Photoshop 6, it's an older version but the extent to which I use it (as complex and multilayered as my Decal images are they are made with basic moves in PS and I have only scratched the surface in the 9 years I have been using it) PhotoShop 4 or 5 would suffice. Creating images that get printed out no larger than a 1" square or at the most 2" x 1" is slightly different than designing something as large as page size Art. One has to be mindful of how an image will appear, and what possible aspects of a design would not be visible, at such a small size. As for Decal Paper I've tried them all and for some time, years, I have only used Decal Paper from Papilio.com All my work is done using Clear Glossy InkJet Decal Paper. As for sharing, sure, I've created and given away files online to let others Customize their DieCast with my Graphics that they can print out. What casting are you working with? I began by using Word to compose my Decal sheets but it is nowhere near as useful as a copy of PhotoShop. I wrote a "Make Your Own Decals Using Microsoft Word " Tutorial back around 2004 for a couple of dozen (at that time) Diecast Customizing sites. It's very elementary, one of the first Internet Tutorials I posted, but until I put up my "Decals In PhotoShop" Tutorial it may break the ice for you and give you a feel for things. I'll find it and post it in the Tutorials section. I thought when I came here there would be lots of dialogue concerning Graphics and AirBrushing for such a large Model site so it's good to see some. CadillacPat

" Decal Fixative Alternative " Something for those of you interested in making your own Custom Decals------------------ “Decal Fixative Alternative” For coating my Decal sheets as they emerge from the printer I've tried lots of products with good to excellent results. I started out using cheap Painters Place Enamel #20014 in the aerosol can from the spray paint department at WalMart. It wasn't bad and only cost 90 cents. Then I used Duplicolor Clear Lacquer DAL #1695 also in an 11 oz. aerosol can from AutoZone. This was a better product that dried much quicker and thinner for $4.59. Then I used DEFT Clear Gloss Varnish in the 11 oz. aerosol can in the Paint Stain Dept at Walmart, about $5. By far, this is the best of the aforementioned and makes the edges of the Decals disappear after final ClearCoat. However, all I've used for the last 10years is House Of Kolor InterCoat Clear. InterCoat Clear is a product used to protect your art as you lay down progressive layers. It's used to coat an existing layer so it can be taped off without fear of raising the paint. It's also used as a carrier to lay transparent colors or pearl powders over basecoats. Well the results are fantastic. One 1/4 oz. AirBrush cup filled 2/3 way with a 50-50 mix of InterCoat Clear and RU311 Reducer is enough to coat a full page of Decals. It dries to an almost negligible thickness in a matter of minutes. With this InterCoat Clear the edges of the Decals disappear as they are laid down. The extra control of applying the InterCoat Clear through your AirBrush instead of blasting some other product out of an aerosol can gives you the ability to lay down just the barest minimum needed to seal the ink on the Decals. The Decal film remains just as thin and pliable as if there was no coating at all. Nothing is wrong with the DEFT but this InterCoat Clear is giving far better results. --CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--

Guys, I have to tell you emphatically NO to all the above answers. There are a variety of Aerosols and Automotive products that best seal Decal Sheets when they emerge from your printers. The operative word here is Fixative. Here's a copy of something I ran on the Internet about 9 years ago, ---------------------------------------------------------- “Decal Fixative Alternative” For coating my Decal sheets as they emerge from the printer I've tried lots of products with good to excellent results. I started out using cheap Painters Place Enamel #20014 in the aerosol can from the spray paint department at WalMart. It wasn't bad and only cost 90 cents. Then I used Duplicolor Clear Lacquer DAL #1695 also in an 11 oz. aerosol can from AutoZone. This was a better product that dried much quicker and thinner for $4.59. Recently, for a little over a year I've used DEFT Clear Gloss Varnish in the 11 oz. aerosol can in the Paint Stain Dept at Walmart, about $5. By far, until now this has been the best and makes the edges of the Decals disappear after final ClearCoat. However, tonight I tried House Of Kolor InterCoat Clear. InterCoat Clear is a product used to protect your art as you lay down progressive layers. It's used to coat an existing layer so it can be taped off without fear of raising the paint. It's also used as a carrier to lay transparent colors or pearl powders over basecoats. Well the results are fantastic. One 1/4 oz. AirBrush cup filled 2/3 way with a 50-50 mix of InterCoat Clear and RU311 Reducer is enough to coat a full page of Decals. It dries to an almost negligible thickness in a matter of minutes. With this InterCoat Clear the edges of the Decals disappear as they are laid down. The extra control of applying the InterCoat Clear through your AirBrush instead of blasting some other product out of an aerosol can gives you the ability to lay down just the barest minimum needed to seal the ink on the Decals. The Decal film remains just as thin and pliable as if there was no coating at all. Nothing is wrong with the DEFT but this InterCoat Clear is giving far better results. --CadillacPat the UnCustomizer--

What does the term interference mean? Don it's just a fancy word for color shift, similar to the Duo Pearls. The Interference colors are White Pearls that faintly shift to another color. In the Tutorial I talk about always placing lighter colored Pearls over darker colorcoats. If you place dark Pearls over White you get tiny specs unless the Pearls are very light Pastels or Bright Gold. The Interference Pearls subtly shift from Pearl White to light Green, Coral Pink, Orchid, Blue or whatever the other color in the Interference Pearl is. Let me find pics of a plastic '89 Batmobile I did that won 2nd place in a HW Convention in Dallas. I used Pearl-Ex Interference Green on it, The colors shift from Pearl White to Green to Coral Pink, I'll post it over in DieCast Models. CadillacPat