CadillacPat

Joe, again, to the Point of your thread, Certainly you can recreate just about anything using good Decals properly created in a graphics program. Shape, contour, drop shadow, Inner bevel, angle of light and more can give a completely realistic look f you don't want to spend the time cutting rod and tubing to glue on the sides. Many who don't use Graphics Programs don't understand that just as much design goes into good Decals as shaping individual pieces by hand. Moreso, all your designs are saved in layers for future use on other projects. Good luck, CadillacPat

If it were me I'd do it just like I make my Decals, I'd lay the casting of the bus on its side on my Scanner and copy it. Then I'd use PhotoShop to draw the ribbing and the rivets right on top of the saved scan. CadillacPat

It's unclear what the above poster meant by "real waterbased paint" unless it's the oppostie of imaginary waterbased paint. But, assuming that it has "better" colors than solvent paints is quite funny, and quite wrong. "Better" is in the eye of the user, or for someone who has little experience Airbrushing with solvent paints. CadillacPat All Products Used Are Exclusively House Of Kolor, Of Course!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just think, Instead of walling it up in a concrete box, they could have just left it in the parking lot for 50 years and it would have been in much better shape. CadillacPat

You bet, I need to add, and I will paste this into the main body above, Also check out the Duo Pearls in both Pearl-Ex and PaintWithPearl, Duo-Green/Yellow, Duo Green/Blue, Duo Red/Blue These Powdered Pearls are different colors on oppostie sides of the platelet. They have color shifting qualities built right into them and are just one more way to get out of this world effects for a penny's worth of Pearl. CadillacPat

Thanks, This one will more than likely get mounted in a long crystal display case!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

Thanks, I always keep an eye out for any new HW or MBox Van castings!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

Thank you Maarten!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

There ya go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You mix it into a ClearCoat, Intercoat Clear or Candies. CadillacPat

Dan, Pearl-Ex is not a powdered Paint. It's dry powdered pearl. CadillacPat

Any Degreaser should do it, if it's not solvent based paint. Try Purple Power Castrol. CadillacPat

" Powdered Pearl Paint Additives " There's been a little dialogue here recently concerning the use of Pearl Powders in AirBrushing. I use two sources for my Powdered Pearls, My first and original source is Pearl-Ex Powders by Jacquard and my other source is PaintWithPearl.com Here's the Jacquard Pearl-Ex site, http://www.jacquardproducts.com/pearl-ex-pigments.html With a list of places around the country to buy the Pearl-Ex Powders, http://www.jacquardproducts.com/storelocator/index.php?PrId=pgPXP And PaintWithPearl.com, http://www.paintwithpearl.com/candystore.htm Back around 2000 I began showing other scale DieCast Customizers the benefits of House Of Kolor paints. At that time DieCast Customizing consisted largely of people dipping their HotWheels into Easter Egg Dye. Nobody else was using Decals or Graphics back then. HOK has their own line of Powdered Pearls but my needs for painting 1/64 DieCast did not quite require the large size amounts that they offered. I looked around for other sources and found Pearl-Ex Powders by Jacquard in my local Texas Art Supply Stores could be purchased in small jars for less than $4, about 3/4 dry ounce quantity. For $4 apiece I have every color they make and some they no longer issue. Needing only a BB sized portion of Pearl-Ex Powder for my 1/64 scale paintjobs it was evident that these jars would last me years and years. Pearl-Ex Powders by Jacquard also offer a kit of several colors in small amounts that still would last anyone a very long time. http://www.jacquardproducts.com/pearl-ex-sets.html I prefer to buy individual colors as I need them. Good Art Supply Stores will carry Pearl-Ex. I started taking the Pearl-Ex Powders to DieCast Shows and Conventions to introduce them to other Customizers and today, like many of the products I use, they have caught on to enhance the paint on these tiny 3" cars. Pearl-Ex Powders are colorfast and weather resistant but not UV resistant. PaintWithPearl Powders however are of automotive quality and are UV resistant. This slight difference in craft quality and automotive quality Pearl Powders is not much consequence to us airbrushing scale DieCast or Models since our builds do not see extended stays in direct sunlight. However, Anything you paint with Pearl Powders, regardless of the brand, needs to be seen in full direct sunlight to appreciate what Pearl Powders do. You will never see the full effect of Pearl Powders unless you view them in bright direct sunlight. The same Model that looks great displayed indoors becomes an entirely different and sparkling piece when taken outside. The intensity of difference is phenomenal. It actually explodes in bright color. PaintWithPearl Powders are a bit smaller in size (microns) than Pearl-Ex and come in many different colors. Either can be shot through a .3 AirBrush needle. Quantity of powder doubles with PaintWithPearl and so does the price per unit, about $10, but shipping is very cheap, about $3 combined shipping. The benefits and ways to use Pearl Powders, either of the two brands, are numerous. Needle sizes as small as .3 will adequately disperse either brand. These are very fine Powders and not Flakes. I'll list a few random uses and results, You can mix Pearl Powders into your ColorCoat but they will most often sink below the surface unless used in large ratios to the amount of paint. The full effects of Pearl Powders are best achieved with the Pearl floating in the Clear or Candy and not just laying on the surface of a ColorCoat. Pearl Powders, as minute as they are, are actually individual platelets with two sides. Just like tiny broken pieces of a mirror, but in powdered form. You always want to use a lighter color of Powdered Pearl than the underlying ColorCoat. Using a Pearl Powder that contrasts with the underlying color allows the Pearl to peek in and out of the color. Pink Pearl on top of a Black ColorCoat, Blue ColorCoat or underlying Blue Candy, shifts to Purples and Lavenders. If you want to use a dark Pearl on top of White or even Yellow you need to test because the Powder might show up as very tiny specs and you don't want that. But, you can use a Brilliant Gold Pearl Powder over White as I do often, to make your job explode in direct sunlight. The uses and combination of colors is endless. Interference Pearls are available from both links listed that give a White background the chameleon effect of shifting from White to Iridescent Pink, Blue, Lavender, Gold, etc. Using any Pearl Powder on top of a Gloss Black Colorcoat will always give you fantastic color changing effects. Also check out the Duo Pearls in both Pearl-Ex and PaintWithPearl, Duo-Green/Yellow, Duo Green/Blue, Duo Red/Blue These Powdered Pearls are different colors on oppostie sides of the platelet. They have color shifting qualities built right into them and are just one more way to get out of this world effects for a penny's worth of Pearl. The amount of Pearl you use can slightly enhance or completely change underlying colors. You can very nearly create the same color shifting effects of expensive chameleon paints by using contrasting Pearls on top of Candies or in your ClearCoat. You can simply mix a little Pearl Powder with Reducer alone and dust a Satin effect directly onto a colorcoat. This method is applied directly on top of a ColorCoat and changes the color dramatically. But, You need the thickness, as minimal as it is, of a ClearCoat to allow the Pearl Powder platelets to disperse at different levels within the thin layer of Clear. This allows the platelets to place themselves at different angles to each other forcing light to bounce around from platelet to platelet. Picture this, the game Plinko where a ball is dropped down through multiple pegs and bounces all around, up and down, till it hits the bottom, like on The Price Is Right Show. The ball represents particles of Light and the Pegs are the Powdered Pearl Platelets within the ClearCoat. You get omni-directional reflection of Light, trapped within the Clear, resulting in a burst of electric color. Again, the amount of Pearl used can slightly enhance or completely change the underlying color. Here's a Black car with some of my Flame Decals that is ClearCoated using a little Emerald Green Pearl. The Decals are hardly affected but the Black background suddenly changes completely to an Electric Emerald Green. Here with the Purple version using Lavender Pearl Powder over a Black background, And another Emerald Green Convention car I created, A little Pink Flamingo Pearl in the Clear over Purple, Shimrin Gold Pearl in Clear over HOK Tangelo Pearl, You can see how the Pearl show more intense at different light angles, The same Gold Pearl in Clear over Tangelo Pearl combination showing how the colors shift, HOK Zenith Gold and Limetime Pearl ClearCoated with a drop or two of Pagan Gold Intensifier and Aztec Gold Pearl Powder, http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Custom%20Outlaws/GoldGrn1.jpg[/IMG] Silver Competition Stripes and HOK Strato Blue, Cleared with a couple of drops of Oriental Blue Intensifier and Electric Blue Pearl Powder. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Custom%20Outlaws/BlueVelvet.jpg[/IMG] So you see, you can use these Pearl Powder Additives in countless ways obtaining an infinite number of color results. Spray a little Pearl Powder directly onto a colorcoat and change the underlying color dramatically. Or, Mix it into your layers of Candy and/or Clear and get beautiful subtle or color shifting effects. Always begin your mix with tiny amounts of Pearl Powder because you can always add more, but to reduce an amount of Pearl in a mixed ClearCoat you will have to dilute it with more Clear. When the subject of using Pearl Powders in an InterCoat Clear comes up, just remember, InterCoat Clears are not durable ClearCoats. They are not meant for build up and should only be applied in very light 2 or 3 layers. As I mentioned above, if you just want to spray some Pearl directly onto a ColorCoat, you can mix some Pearl in some Reducer and maybe a few drops of InterCoat Clear for Binder and Stick. And, InterCoat Clears must be ClearCoated over. For me, AirBrushing and mixing paint is a very important part of the job. Very enjoyable. There are so many possible combinations of ColorCoats, Candies and Pearls that an infinite number of totally unique paintjobs can be laid down. The indoor pics I have shown let you see subtle color shifting effects of this technique, but, taking your finished jobs out into direct sunlight will blow your mind. You can see more examples of my color shifting Pearl Powders at my sites below, CadillacPat

Here's a copy of it, I have it up on the AirBrush sites I belong to because the interest for mixing paints and techniques is very active there. " Powdered Pearl Paint Additives " There's been a little dialogue here recently concerning the use of Pearl Powders in AirBrushing. I use two sources for my Powdered Pearls, My first and original source is Pearl-Ex Powders by Jacquard and my other source is PaintWithPearl.com Here's the Jacquard Pearl-Ex site, http://www.jacquardproducts.com/pearl-ex-pigments.html With a list of places around the country to buy the Pearl-Ex Powders, http://www.jacquardproducts.com/storelocator/index.php?PrId=pgPXP And PaintWithPearl.com, http://www.paintwithpearl.com/candystore.htm Back around 2000 I began showing other scale DieCast Customizers the benefits of House Of Kolor paints. At that time DieCast Customizing consisted largely of people dipping their HotWheels into Easter Egg Dye. Nobody else was using Decals or Graphics back then. HOK has their own line of Powdered Pearls but my needs for painting 1/64 DieCast did not quite require the large size amounts that they offered. I looked around for other sources and found Pearl-Ex Powders by Jacquard in my local Texas Art Supply Stores could be purchased in small jars for less than $4, about 3/4 dry ounce quantity. For $4 apiece I have every color they make and some they no longer issue. Needing only a BB sized portion of Pearl-Ex Powder for my 1/64 scale paintjobs it was evident that these jars would last me years and years. Pearl-Ex Powders by Jacquard also offer a kit of several colors in small amounts that still would last anyone a very long time. http://www.jacquardproducts.com/pearl-ex-sets.html I prefer to buy individual colors as I need them. I started taking the Pearl-Ex Powders to DieCast Shows and Conventions to introduce them to other Customizers and today, like many of the products I use, they have caught on to enhance the paint on these tiny 3" cars. Pearl-Ex Powders are colorfast and weather resistant but not UV resistant. PaintWithPearl Powders however are of automotive quality and are UV resistant. This slight difference in craft quality and automotive quality Pearl Powders is not much consequence to us airbrushing scale DieCast or Models since our builds do not see extended stays in direct sunlight. However, Anything you paint with Pearl Powders, regardless of the brand, needs to be seen in full direct sunlight to appreciate what Pearl Powders do. You will never see the full effect of Pearl Powders unless you view them in bright direct sunlight. The same Model that looks great displayed indoors becomes an entirely different and sparkling piece when taken outside. The intensity of difference is phenomenal. It actually explodes in bright color. PaintWithPearl Powders are a bit smaller in size (microns) than Pearl-Ex and come in many different colors. Either can be shot through a .3 AirBrush needle. Quantity of powder doubles with PaintWithPearl and so does the price per unit, about $10, but shipping is very cheap, about $3 combined shipping. The benefits and ways to use Pearl Powders, either of the two brands, are numerous. Needle sizes as small as .3 will adequately disperse either brand. These are very fine Powders and not Flakes. I'll list a few random uses and results, You can mix Pearl Powders into your colorcoat but they will most often sink below the surface unless used in large ratios to the amount of paint. The full effects of Pearl Powders are best achieved with the Pearl floating in the Clear or Candy and not just laying on the surface of a colorcoat. Pearl Powders, as minute as they are, are actually individual platelets with two sides. Just like tiny broken pieces of a mirror, but in powdered form. You always want to use a lighter color of Powdered Pearl than the underlying ColorCoat. Using a Pearl Powder that contrasts with the underlying color allows the Pearl to peek in and out of the color. Pink Pearl on top of a Black ColorCoat, Blue ColorCoat or underlying Blue Candy, shifts to Purples and Lavenders. If you want to use a dark Pearl on top of White or even Yellow you need to test because the Powder might show up as very tiny specs and you don't want that. But, you can use a Brilliant Gold Pearl Powder over White as I do often, to make your job explode in direct sunlight. The uses and combination of colors is endless. Interference Pearls are available from both links listed that give a White background the chameleon effect of shifting from White to Iridescent Pink, Blue, Lavender, Gold, etc. Using any Pearl Powder on top of a Gloss Black Colorcoat will always give you fantastic color changing effects. The amount of Pearl you use can slightly enhance or completely change underlying colors. You can very nearly create the same color shifting effects of expensive chameleon paints by using contrasting Pearls on top of Candies or in your ClearCoat. You can simply mix a little Pearl Powder with Reducer alone and dust a Satin effect directly onto a colorcoat. This method is applied directly on top of a ColorCoat and changes the color dramatically. But, You need the thickness, as minimal as it is, of a ClearCoat to allow the Pearl Powder platelets to disperse at different levels within the thin layer of Clear. Picture this, the game Plinko where a ball is dropped down through multiple pegs and bounces all around, up and down, till it hits the bottom, like on The Price Is Right Show. The ball represents particles of Light and the Pegs are the Powdered Pearl Platelets within the ClearCoat. You get omni-directional reflection of Light, trapped within the Clear, resulting in a burst of electric color. Again, the amount of Pearl used can slightly enhance or completely change the underlying color. Here's a Black car with some of my Flame Decals that is ClearCoated using a little Emerald Green Pearl. The Decals are hardly affected but the Black background suddenly changes completely to an Electric Emerald Green. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/EBay%20Pictures/PICT0006-7.jpg[/IMG] Here with the Purple version using Lavender Pearl Powder over a Black background, And another Emerald Green Convention car I created, A little Pink Flamingo Pearl in the Clear over Purple, Shimrin Gold Pearl in Clear over HOK Tangelo Pearl, You can see how the Pearl show more intense at different light angles, The same Gold Pearl in Clear over Tangelo Pearl combination showing how the colors shift, HOK Zenith Gold and Limetime Pearl ClearCoated with a drop or two of Pagan Gold Intensifier and Aztec Gold Pearl Powder, Silver Competition Stripes and HOK Strato Blue, Cleared with a couple of drops of Oriental Blue Intensifier and Electric Blue Pearl Powder. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Custom%20Outlaws/BlueVelvet.jpg[/IMG] So you see, you can use these Pearl Powder Additives in countless ways obtaining an infinite number of color results. Spray a little Pearl Powder directly onto a colorcoat and change the underlying color dramatically. Or, Mix it into your layers of Candy and/or Clear and get beautiful subtle or color shifting effects. Always begin your mix with tiny amounts of Pearl Powder because you can always add more, but to reduce an amount of Pearl in a mixed ClearCoat you will have to dilute it with more Clear. When the subject of using Pearl Powders in an InterCoat Clear comes up, just remember, InterCoat Clears are not durable ClearCoats. They are not meant for build up and should only be applied in very light 2 or 3 layers. As I mentioned above, if you just want to spray some Pearl directly onto a ColorCoat, you can mix some Pearl in some Reducer and maybe a few drops of InterCoat Clear for Binder and Stick. For me, mixing paint is a very important part of the job. Very enjoyable. There are so many ways you can come up with a unique combination ending up in a totally unique paintjob. The indoor pics I have shown let you see subtle color shifting effects of this technique, but, taking your finished jobs out into direct sunlight will blow your mind. You can see more examples of my color shifting Pearl Powders at my sites below, CadillacPat http://route66customs.com/ http://purplepassioncustoms.com/

You can easily obtain very similar color changing chameleon effects by using my Pearl Additives Technique. See my Painting With Pearl Additives thread. I've never cared for the flip flop chameleon paints. In my opinion they detract rom the lines of a car and look garish. However, Pearl Powder Additives used either to compliment or contrast Candies and Basecoats can result in rather remarkable color changing effects with the right comnbination of Base, Candy, Clear and Pearl Powders. CadillacPat

That is very realistic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Very realistic!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So real it is difficult to determine scale.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

I have to pick this one apart here, This is all so silly, so what, you can't buy and sell, so what!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! quote: So far, the only valid reason listed in this thread for not having one here is Tom's-------- Does this mean that all other reasons are invalid befause they are not your reasons???????? Doesn't this demonize everyone else and ridicule their opinions???? quote: I guess what I find distasteful is the perpetual "we can't do that! we're not a store!" excuse,----- Okay, so you feel that is distasteful. I find licorice distasteful but it's no big deal to me. quote: Anything else is an insult to our intelligence---------- Again wih the selfdetermined thoughts of a supposed majority of the site. I'l be the first to say I am not included in that "our" group. If that really insults your intelligence you must have had a heart attack when Beyonce did her halftime "show", Now that was an insult to anyone who has intelligence.. If I wanted to sell something, as I have with those who have PM'd me, I would never expect a site to be accountable for the transaction. Nor would I raise a public fuss if the deal went south. If anyone needs a special portion of the site to Buy and Sell stuff, it is because they do not want to go to the trouble of setting up their own site for that purpose. It is always easier to get on someone else's gravytrain. CadillacPat

You mean like posting a new thread that alludes to a point that you forgot to place in your post????????? CadillacPat

Did you read the first page of the thread? CadillacPat

I could not do without the CadillacPat Fact-O-Bake Ovens I have used since 1998. Very simply answered, and Derick has hit it square,Sure, raising the temp slightly will not only speed up drying and curing time, but it will make your paint and Clear lay down like glass. I paint both DieCast and Plastic and my Ovens allow me to move on to multi tape paintjobs. or applying Decals, or spraying final clearcoats, in a fraction of normal drying time without them. My Ovens perform several duties that the final results benefit from. Here is a copy of part of one of my Tutorials on my Ovens,---------------- In line with the posting I've been doing about the tools I invent and employ to create my Customs, I would like to show here a very useful tool that any of you can build to improve your paint jobs and speed up the time it takes to create your Customs. My CadillacPat Ovens allow me to create even complex 2 or 3 tone paintjob Customs in less than 24 hrs. from Disassembly all the way to Reassembly. Everything including Decals and ClearCoat in less than one day. This shot of the first 21 of a total of 50 HWCGermany Convention cars were all Primered, painted with 3 coats of Shimrin White, Decaled, Detailed, ClearCoated with House Of Kolor Urethane Enamel Clear and then reassembled in less than 24 hrs with the help of my CadillacPat Ovens. As a kid I remembered the banks of flood lights used in Automobile paint shops so when I began Customizing DieCast I knew I could incorporate this idea into my own brand of Ovens for causing paint to warm up and lay down like glass. Additional benefits include a dust free environment for the painted cars to sit in and vastly speeded up curing time of any type paint used. These 3 benefits make these Ovens a Grand Slam when added to anyone's Custom Shop. One of my small portable Ovens I show at DieCast Conventions, Here you can see a piece of 1/4" glass that is placed between the light bulbs and the Customs. This glass absorbs and radiates heat in a uniform manner. It also serves as a shelf for quickly curing ClearCoated Printed Decal pages and curing body mods where QuikSteel, J.B. Weld, Milliput, or Apoxie Sculpt is used. And, It serves as a dust barrier. My large Oven which holds 55 to 60 painted castings. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/PICT0178.jpg[/IMG] http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/PICT0179.jpg[/IMG] http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Customizing%20Tools/groupstandshot.jpg[/IMG] http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v483/CadillacPat/Customizing%20Tools/standinsertshot.jpg[/IMG] And my oldest and most used middle size CadillacPat Custom Fact-O-Bake Oven directly below my Custom made tabletop Paint Booth. These Ovens of mine are easy and inexpensive to make. With their use it is no sweat at all to create and finish a complete Custom, or even several, in less than 24 hrs. Stay tuned as I am drawing up plans to show you how to build your own CadillacPat Custom Fact-O-Bake Oven from a single inexpensive length of 1" x 12" by 10' board of lumber. I also Customize a lot of Plastic bodies. For those of you making Models of Plastic you just need to think of the words Baking or Oven as gently assisting in raising the temperature. You just want to raise the temp to somewhere below or around 100 degrees, for Plastic Models. Your curing and drying times still decrease greatly, your paint stays safe and dust free, and everything lays down like glass, expeciall solvents like House Of Kolor paint. For plastic Models just envision the size of the body and Paint Stand used, and build your Oven accordingly. Size your Oven so you can place and remove Plastic Bodies on a Paint Stand without harming the paint. An Oven 22" on a side will suffice for up to 1/18 scale Built with 2 or 3 light receptacles wired in parallel you can slightly unscrew 1 or 2 allowing only 1 bulb to burn when curing paint on Plastic, and then screw in all 3 bulbs for Metal DieCast. All you need to do is determine what kind of Paint Stand you want to use. I prefer the ones I make from wooden dowels that go from Paint Booth to Oven and vice versa. See my "CadillacPat Paint Stands" thread. However, for Plastic Bodies I would lean towards fabricating some kind of X-Frame setup (stiill on a dowel) to secure the body from the inside. Just slightly raising the surrounding temperature, in the case of Plastic, to say 95 degrees doesn't sound like a lot, But if you're in a shop that is 60 degrees it means a great deal to have a small enclosed controlled environment dedicated to drying your projects. CadillacPat

Hooter the Milliput Superfine is the best of their line, hence, it can be wet sanded to a smooth porcelain lke finish. I also use Apoxie Sculpt. Both dry super hard with no shrinkage. CadillacPat

Fabric shops and your local Art Supply Stores will have small screen patterns in soft nylon. Useful as templates only I don't think you will find actual scale lace. Print out some lace Decals!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You can find anything on the Net, Tribals, WingDing Fonts, and just size it for your use. CadillacPat

Thanks Erik, After promoting the quality of Decal Paper from Papilio.com for years on the Internet, they made me their Moderator over on DecalTalk. I have a long history of creating and teaching Decals to Customizers in the DieCast community. I started creating my own Decals around 1999 and went through 2 or 3 main brands of Clear and White InkJet Decal paper. I would order a batrch of 10 - 50 sheets and some would be fresh and some would not. The consistency of the carrier film on the sheets was 50% at best. Then, I ordered some Decal Paper from Papilio.com, just up the road from Houston. That was about 8 years ago and I've used them ever since. Their paper is consistent, always fresh and arrives sometimes in less than 24 hours from ordering it. Checkout allows you to choose real cheap shipping and the packets of paper come shipped in a box with packing. All of my Promotional Customs rely heavily on the graphics I create for the Decals. Decal Paper has to pass my criteria for a number of things, First the Decal Paper must be relatively fresh. Glossy Decal Paper must be Glossy, consistently Glossy for all the pages in the pack, and consistent gloss for the entire surface of each page. Matte finish Decal paper must ve consistently Matte in the same way. Good Decal Paper must be super thin but also resilient so it does not tear during application. I use Clear InkJet Decal Paper for all my applications, even over dark colored paint jobs. I can guarantee you'll like White InkJet Deal Paper from Papilio.com That side stripe you show could also be done easily using a white painted background that Clear InkJet Decals fit right over. As far as Decal Fixative there are a number of products you can use. I use a thinned down mix of House Of Kolor Intercoat Clear to seal my Decal pages when they emerge from the Printer. Any questions just ask!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CadillacPat

What is it? Is it a metal DieCast car? If so, check out my "Stripping Your DieCast" thread in Tutorials. CadillacPat

My first gun was a Paasche H. About 1998 I had the idea of disassembling HotWheels and AirBrushing them in colors the factory did not offer, while using paints other than the thick epoxy types that HotWSheels hosed them down with. I used that Paasche H for 6 years painting single Customs and large runs for Conventions up to 1000 cars. The H was the only gun I had experience with. Then, A friend dropped by one day with a Badger Anthem 155 and the world of better, easier to clean, much more efficient, better atomizing AirBrushes was opened up to me. The Paasche H comes with a clumsy system of Tips, Cones and Needles that inherently hide specks and chunks of paint deep within the arrangment of washers and set screws. The H is an External Mix gun similar to blowing air over a Coke Bottle to make it erupt. The Anthem is an Internal Mix gun producing fine atomization. The Anthem 155 is a snap to clean or flush in less than a minute. I gave away the Paasche H in a contest online knowing I would never use it again. I went on to purchase a Badger 100LG, a Talon, and 3 Iwatas. The Anthem 155 is my workhorse now mostly for Primer and Clear but it will do an across the board job for any size DieCast or Model. The edge it gives you over a Paache H is quickly noticeable. CadillacPat