hooknladderno1

Zoli, Beautiful as always!

I love this tip too! As I can't seem to build anything box stock, I usually quickly run out of room in the kit box. I began using the plastic shoe boxes to contain all parts, reference photos, etc. This remedied the bent photos, lost small parts and such. I also use them when disassembling die-cast. All parts, sub assemblies and screws are kept in Ziplock bags, both to cushion and contain the contents. I have now taken to buying the Sterilite containers that have locking tabs to keep the contents from falling out if the container gets jostled.

Very cool idea! Look forward to following this project! I am working on an ambulance conversion of the same '23 "T" Budweiser van kit.

Jeremy, Awesome job on the long bed conversion! I echo the suggestion above to get someone to cast it! A suggestion - if you can get your hands on some Tamiya tape, I think you will have a better time with your masking. You may also want to try pre-cutting the tape off the model and then applying it. I have learned the hard way about not burnishing the edges of the tape on more than one occasion! Look forward to the next update.

Hi Guys, A brief update... Work has continued on modifying the kit body to more closely resemble the 1:1 ambulance. As you will recall, this was the kit side" It now looks like this: While not the cleanest build, you can see the high degree of changes that were made. A bit of surface preparation will be done in the next few days. Here is the stock rear: And the updated rear: It looks really cool when taped together(IMHO)... Thanks for looking!

Has anyone ever had a 3d master made? If so, did you do the artwork, or contract that? Any information would be appreciated. I can think of tons of parts that I would love to design and have "printed". Does anyone know which companies make the "smoother", less porous style parts? Thanks.

Jim, Awesome job on the tanker! There are so many different tankers that one can build using a few basic techniques. You knocked this one out of the park!

Hi Guys, While I have been a member on this site for a while, I just stumbled upon this community build! Boy, was I excited to see this AND read it's conent to date. While I have posted other projects elsewhere on the MCM Forum, I will also post this new project here. If nothing else, it is different... . I began me EMS career as a volunteer with the Palmyra, (NJ) Ambulance Association. They were founded back in 1921, and are reportedly the oldest emergency squad in continuous service in the country. History aside, their first vehicle was depicted on the 75th Anniversary t-shirts Now I am not an expert on early vehicles, but had picked up this kit at the NNL East a few years ago with this project in mind. I knew that there would need to be some modifications to the kit, as this is what the kit side looks like: The box art conveniently shows a side view of the stock kit. I took some blank index card stock, cut it to shape and mocked up some of the changes that would be required: I have made additional progress and will post an update shortly. All comments and feedback are appreciated. Thanks for looking!

Hi Guys, Well, while waiting for my Gator Grip glue to arrive for my HEMTT project, I thought that I would start a project with some sentimental value. I began me EMS career as a volunteer with the Palmyra, (NJ) Ambulance Association. They were founded back in 1921, and are reportedly the oldest emergency squad in continuous service in the country. History aside, their first vehicle was depicted on the 75th Anniversary t-shirts Now I am not an expert on early vehicles, but had picked up this kit at the NNL East a few years ago with this project in mind. I knew that there would need to be some modifications to the kit, as this is what the kit side looks like: The box art conveniently shows a side view of the stock kit. I took some blank index card stock, cut it to shape and mocked up some of the changes that would be required: I have made additional progress and will post an update shortly. All comments and feedback are appreciated. Thanks for looking!

I can't wait until Christmas! When I got the mail the other day, there was a small package from AITM! I just gave it to my wife with a wink! I know at least one thing that will be under the Christmas tree...

JT, Fantastic work x2! You got me thinking... Wanted to share with you a technique that might be helpful. Placed this post over in the Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials section. Hope this helps! Fantastic scratchbuilding! http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=67441

Hi Guys, Have you ever wondered how some modelers make such "PERFECT" wheel wells? Well, I learned a little secret that can help you achieve success every time. The OLFA Compass Cutter model CMP-1, is the key: It is an inexpensive tool(less than $10 bucks). It adjust to a diameter of 6 inches. It is really easy to use. Simply mark out the center point of where you want your wheels to be. Lightly press the point or drill a small hole where the compass point will go. No worries, as this area will be removed once the cuts are made. Place a small piece of masking tape over the hole. This will keep the compass from "walking". Lightly rotate the tool around the diameter of your styrene sheet. With each pass, go a little deeper. Soon, your plastic disc will be free. You can use this technique on single wheel wells: or doubles: You can order the tool directly from OLFA, or purchase it locally from craft or hobby shops. Replacement blades are also available. Hope you find this useful.

No, unfortunately not. It will require custom tires and wheels, as the ones on the 1:1 items are not currently available. From there the rest will be completely scratchbuilt.

Me too Derick! I normally build 1/24-1/25 scale. But, since this kit is only offered in 1/35, it was the only option... I am planning a 1/25 scale Oshkosh P-19 ARFF for my semi-fictitious Summit Airport ARFF station.

I too am in the process of building a spray booth. I am building a down draft style booth. Just a suggestion for those considering doing so: I utilized a section of open grid that is commonly found on flourescent lights. It is open, but still strong enough to support a large model and stand. It allows much more flow through than either pegboard or randomly drilled holes. They are easily found at most home improvement stores and simple to cut to shape. I used my rotary tool(Dremel). I chose to put a filter in mine, as I am currently in an apartment. I have a few more steps to go before it is operational.

Hi Guys, Another small update. I have been working on the cab. There are a number of molding "stubs" to sand off, on the inside, as well as small round depressions to fill. The seats needed to be filled as they had such deep creases in them, they looked like they came from the junk yard. I am waiting on an order of Gator Grip glue to arrive, so that I can glue in the cab glass. I am also working on joystick controls for the bumper mounted water turret. This will be a scratchbuilt affair, as the M978 kit does not have one. Here is a quick photo of the cab mock up in place. Hope to have more progress photos to share soon! Thanks for looking! David

For those interested in a little different option, AITM is now offering wooden spoked wheels and some back dating pieces. Their quality and price are typical of AITM. I have given my wife a printed out order form to add to my Christmas list(hint, hint). Here are some photos that Dave Natale sent following my inquiry about these items. I am not affiliated with AITM, just a satisfied customer who appreciates the unique and quality items that he offers.

For you fire apparatus modelers out there, take a simple flat round headed pin and file the top and bottom 1/3 of the pin off to give yourself a "T" handled valve. This type is commonly found on a pump panel and pulls outward. For gated type valves, cut a small piece of plastic rod or sprue. Lay the disc flat and drill a small hole the diameter of the pin(round headed pin) into the side. Cut the pin to length and glue in place. Below is an example of the gated type ball pin valves: Hope this helps.

Hi Guys, FYI - This is the new labeling on Future:

I believe this is what you are talking about: Make sure to get the Universal Chrome as pictured! My photos were sprayed over Krylon Gloss Black. Hope this helps.

Great work with the hood, hinges, and "spats"! Nice clean building and the patience to stop and document each step. I love watching the progression of projects like this.

Plaskit makes some nice ones. You may also want to check out the Sourkrauts. He may have some in stock.

Hi Guys, Just prior to my move, my corded Dremel of 20+ years bit the dust... I had purchased a small batteryj powered Dremel for slow speed work. The battery never lasted two minutes... I have heard good things about the Proxxon. Any of you that have one care to provide some feedback? I am preparing my Christmas list for the wife and kids... Thought that it might be a good addition. Thanks in advance.

Hey Guys, With all of this discussion on Plastikote primer, can someone provide a photo, product number, or other info on which specific primer in their line everyone is talking about? I have seen at least 15 different primers listed on the CarQuest website. I have sworn by Tamiya white and Duplicolor primers for years, but am always open to an alternative. Thanks

George, Fantastic! The striping looks like decals! Great job, as I know how challenging that can be! Only thing missing is the yellow race car(just kidding)...