Zoom Zoom

The model contest is Saturday only.

Are you missing your home show in PR to go to Rennsport? It'll be me, Henry, Wayne Webers, Eric Cole, Matt Wadlinger, Brian Venable, and Scott Laudenslager going from ACME, and Ken Mouton is coming from SC. There's going to be a big contingent there from the GPMA as well, should be some excellent racing Porsche models. We'll have our ACME club IROC display from our NNL last year (all 15 cars from the first Riverside race), along with a new Daytona IROC display of at least several of the Daytona IROC Porsches (I'm building the orange #1 Donohue car for that). Can't wait to see you and everyone else!

I'll be there! A few of us ACME members (we're in the same town as the Porsche NA headquarters and have been working with them setting it up; they visited our show last year w/our Porsche theme) will be running the Porsche model contest held there on Saturday, come by and say "hi" and bring any racing Porsche models you have. At least 6 ACME members will be there, including a couple that recently moved to Florida. Ken Mouton is coming from SC, Kevin Rogers/Strada Sports will be there too, though I have no idea if he's vending, he may be there just to see the show. It's going to be a fantastic weekend

That's the reason I have this same kit instead of the Fujimi! Much simpler, and IIRC the price was dirt cheap. I do get tempted every now and then to get the Fujimi EM kit, but I always let it slide. I'm not a fan of overly-complex kits that are very time-consuming to assembly properly. I bought a Fujimi EM (Testors box) BMW 635 (only 5 bucks) and was astonished at it's ridiculous parts count, and a good deal of sub-par parts quality. I compared it to my Tamiya kit of the same subject, and instantly realized I'd far prefer building the much simpler, yet superbly engineered and molded Tamiya kit. I then gave the Fujimi one away. I just didn't have it in be to labor that much over that particular model. Oh, I've seen one or two of those EM Countaches. You'll be happy to know that some of the most complex assembly and parts get covered up by bodywork I'm dying to build my Fujimi EM Porsche 356's, and some of you guys are scaring me about it's complexity Makes me wonder if I should get another one to build w/o painting or parts detailing simply to learn where I can spend my time, where I can take shortcuts, and what parts need the most massaging prior to assembly.

I got a Canon S3 IS last Christmas for about $300, it's been a great camera for me and a friend has an S2 and loves it. 12X optical zoom, image stabilization, macro and super macro settings. It was one of the top-rated cameras of it's kind, it uses standard AA batteries. I get great model pics, and the image stabilization feature is great for anyone with remotely shaky hands; table shots of models indoors are tough to shoot w/o the flash, I couldn't get a good shot w/my Nikon w/o a tripod.

The Fujimi is the better kit, and more complicated as well.

I trust yours will have the correct roofline; the gray one in the picture has issues w/the rear quarter window and C pillar angle, and is clearly sub-par versus the AAM body. It will be nice having one that's got all the corrections; I did one myself years ago when I owned an '88 sedan but didn't have the skills to do the correct side trim. To make taillights I took SVO Mustang rear lenses and filled the outer lenses w/superglue to correct them. While everyone still likes the notchback sedan, there's a ready market for resin hatchbacks and GT coupes as well; All American did those, and they too were compromised in some fashion, as the basic Monogram kit has many compromises as well.

That's killer! Nice work on the replica. Someone needs to do that in resin *cough* DARIN *cough*! I wonder if the designers at Dodge were influenced by the Barris-designed Mercury Super Marauder that was on the show circuit a year previous to this? I've been working on a Super Marauder for about 10 years now and it's still not ready for primer

Hey now, I'm not a chrome dome...yet, at least You know if you eat at the Dead Lobster you might get crabs!

Nothing to worry about, the caps keep the pens fresh for years, unless you use up the ink! They're basically an archival-quality opaque black ink inside a disposable technical pen, almost like a Rapidograph but none of the hassles of refilling/cleaning. I used to do patent illustrations the traditional way; pen/ink drawings on bristol board. I started using these pens when they came out and I was happy to never deal w/Rapidographs again. Of course now I do the drawings on computer and they're laser printed, my pens went to my model workbench upon their retirement The pens are only 2 bucks and change, a bit cheaper if you buy a set.

Nice work I started a coupe conversion w/a GT1 roof 2 years ago 'cause I didn't like the stock Carrera GT. I saw a CGT on the track at Road Atlanta earlier this year, and then decided that I really do like the stock Carrera GT You might think about changing your "handle", you're knocking the exotics out of the park and we haven't seen a Mopar from you in some time!

Amazing. Now I have to find one and build it and do wire wheels. It's all your fault Great work, the color scheme is great and out of the ordinary. Doesn't seem that long ago that these cars were relatively common sights.

I use the Sakura Pigma Micron .005" most of the time for my panel lines (and then bury them under a bit more color to tone down the black). Sometimes the .005" is still to big if it's a tight panel line. I've never used the .05" on a model (I think the largest pen I have is a .03"). They're very handy for detailing.

Looks great I've seen this kit in person; a friend was given one with LMM's prepainted body. Pretty decent paintjob they had, but the green areas weren't too great. Perhaps he can race-weather it and nobody will notice

Looks good so far! I know the multi-piece body looks intimidating, but at least the real car has seams and a small bead on the tops of the fenders where Revell split the body. The original release of the kit came w/some neat racing parts; a rollbar, tonneau cover and perhaps a few other goodies. They're pretty rare, though I found a built one Hobby Heaven in Toledo a few years back and I was never happier to personally hand Tom my cash for such a cool and rare buildup, and the price was dirt cheap too

Testors (and Tamiya) spray lacquers don't have to be sprayed over primer; they're mild enough to not harm plastic. Testors has more pigment, so it's not as important as Tamiya spraying over a suitable "primer" color.

I have no idea when it will happen; I do believe it's been discussed on this board before, and Tom may be a member here. Perhaps he'll see this post? Since I have a Vega and the Keith Marks Cosworth decals, I also want a set of the correct wheels. If I hear anything I'll make it known here.

Yes, it's an awesome model. So are your T/A models. It's a brand-spankin' new kit from Bill Bauer. You should have no problem getting it. He'll probably be set up at the ACME NNL in November, if you plan to travel down again for it. Kevin/Strada Sports and Ed Cervo will also be vending, so I'm sure the Jag will be at the show for sale.

The new Corvette custom rims are pretty sorry representations of Minilites or Panasports, or Cosworth Vega wheels, which really aren't Panasports. There's a guy on Hobby Heaven named Tom Mooty who is purportedly going to design the Cosworth wheel and have it made using rapid prototyping methods. Someday he'll have available the proper wheel for a Cosworth.

Thanks for the photos, Gregg! I hear the judging and awards were controversial, to say the least

I was at the Buford WM early last week and they had three Mercs and one of the Dodge L700 combo kits. The WM in Tucker doesn't have them. It's a great kit.

The color looks awesome! My only comment...don't give into any temptation for gold wheels. Keep 'em silver I tend to agree about being careful of the clear; I apply clear in two sessions-the first to build it up, I let it dry and hit it with 2400-3200 grit micromesh, then apply clear again, which generally gets sanded with 3600 only and then liquid. I rarely have problems with that combination.

No, you'll just have to build more to use it up 36 cans of primer, roughly 5 cars per can of primer (likely more), that's 180 models, let's say 10 models a year, that's an 18 year supply. If you only build 2 per year, you have a 90 year supply

Looks great in that color

I can't live without it! I use it for temporary assembly, holding parts while painting, and I have a few models that have a bit of it holding something permanently