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Looks great, BMF is considered a finishing item like paint/decals so by most rules it's definitely OOB even w/BMF. Hopefully aliens aren't watching this board and wondering about all the acronyms

Nobody else has answered your leather-look question, so I'll make an attempt One way that's been mentioned is spraying a flat color, and rubbing your nose with your finger and then rubbing the oil over the flat paint to give it a sheen. Personally, I don't like greasy fingerprints/noseprints on my models, so do that at your own peril. Most leather has a satin sheen, somewhere between flat and semigloss. When I spray interior colors, I generally clearcoat them in an appropriate level of gloss, if I've sprayed the seats in a gloss color, I'll tone them down with a few light coats of Testors Dullcote. If they're sprayed in a flat color, I'll apply a thin coat of semigloss clear; Dullcote separates in the jar, I'll partially mix it and then spray. Or I'll spray Acryl semigloss clear. The general answer is spray the leather areas whatever color you like, and adjust the level of shine with a clearcoat. Nothing is worse than overly-glossy seats; it's better to make them a bit duller than shinier. You could also try increasing the sheen on flat seats by carefully swabbing some Armor-All or similar cleaner/protector (keep it away from anything needing to be painted!).

It's pretty much the same thing as Ambroid Pro Weld; the Weld On stuff is sold at plastics distributors; any commercial dealer of plexiglass etc. should carry it. Sometimes we have to venture a bit further than the hobby shop...

Simply A W E S M E! I love it!

Try a 50% paint/50% thinner mixture first and adjust accordingly by how it sprays with your setup. If too thick, add thinner. If too thin, add paint.

Nice work

Sweet! I got one to build stock, now I think I may change my mind and build it as a mild custom! Clean machine, and your wife has a good eye for colors

Yes, Testors bottle paints need thinning before spraying. They sell their own bottles of lacquer thinner for the bottle paints, but you'll probably be able to thin it with hardware store lacquer thinner as well. That's what I thin Testors enamels with.

Nice work on both of 'em This is going to be the Revell kit of the decade. Haven't seen anything like this from them since the '32 Fords and their Integra Type R. It's a rare kit that hits the sweet spot so well and is built by so many different modelers, including ones that are building outside of their usual subject matter and comfort zone.

You guys are killin' me! I bought a second STS-V to do in metallic red. But I have a stack of projects ahead of it that won't budge Looks great Can't wait to see how it ends up. I found some spoked wheels from a Maisto diecast that look very similar to the stock STS-V; same ones that I'm using on the 300C SRT-8 and Touring. I can't believe Cadillac doesn't offer the STS-V in red! I think their STS-V color palette was determined by a funeral director

Ditto However...with the availability of Tamiya and even to a lesser extent Testors spray can lacquers (cheapie nozzles are their achilles heel, if you get a good nozzle you'll likely get good results), it's quite easy for people to get an amazing finish from their spray cans if they're satisfied with the basic colors offered in their spray cans. I've got many examples of models painted in "standard" white, silver, black, blue from Tamiya where I spent my time airbrushing interior/chassis components. That said, in the past year I've been decanting Tamiya sprays most of the time, I get a lot more mileage from their spray cans than I used to and the ability to mix/match colors to a limited extent. I sure wish they'd sell their entire line of lacquer colors in jars rather than spray cans. I sometimes cheat and apply the decanted paint slowly and methodically in thin layers, and then when I want that wet final coat I'll pick up the can and go for it! It's like the best of both worlds. You probably remember my Phantom Corsair (you're the only other person I know has built one of these funky/cool Scale Kraft kits ), and it was shot with Tamiya TS spray can black, directly from the can. It's smooth from the spray can, but as with any black paint the real work comes after it's sprayed, micromesh and then careful steps of various liquid compounds.

That's really cool

I've got something else going on the day of the Petite (thank goodness for TV coverage), but I'll be around that weekend and we have an ACME club meeting on Sunday, just like last year. Henry and Wayne will be going to the race both Friday and Saturday. Hope we get a chance to meet again this year!

Nice! I knew a shade of red would look good on it. Ever since building my black and silver one I've wanted to do a red STS-V in the CTS-V color scheme (for some reason Cadillac doesn't offer the STS-V in the red color, only rather bland silver, gray, or black). I've got some reasonably stock wheels for it.

Last weekend I got the Revell Audi R10 and a can of Tamiya light sand. This weekend I'm ordering a Modelmartin/Aardvark Firebird III and Scale Productions Cayman GT transkit from Stradasports as burfday presents .

Something is blocking the flow of paint (not air); the same way as you "backflush" the airbrush when cleaning by covering the nozzle while you spray so it blows back into the cup or jar. You might try soaking the nozzle in some thinner; even a tiny bit of dried paint can cause a blockage. Make sure the needle is moving back and forth when you pull back on the trigger. If you can't get it cleaned, you can replace the needle/nozzle, you don't have to replace the entire brush.

Steve's digicams has a great selection of reviews and recommendations. It helped me when I was looking for a new camera. Steve's Digicams "Best of" reviews

Nice work Looks like you made a lot of the same kind of parts that are in the SMS kit; they also did acetate window details, and added BBS wheels.

I recently built the Georgia car; it was good mindless fun. The body is painted dark blue/white, but the white should really be a pale gray. They also didn't put number decals in the kit for the roof which should correspond w/the rear license plate. So it's not really 100% accurate, but it looks decent w/my GA Mustang and GA BMW patrol cars that I have built in the past. I may get the NC car to throw together.

That is correct, if they're too narrow/shallow before/after priming I'll scribe them enough that when I do my one pass between color coats the pen will do the job smoothly.

I only use the pen one time during the process; between color coats. Generally I prime, add color coat #1, wetsand, add panel lines w/.005 Pigma Micron, apply a few more light coats of color, then clear, then polish. If the lines are too faint to begin with, I have a couple of pointed scribing tools in my arsenal and a triangular-section riffler file. I'll open them up prior to, and during, the priming process.

It is most definitely the Protar kit. The opening doors gives it away. Many people knock the Protar for it's body shape, but it's quite accurate for the car that it depicts; all GTO's had differences in their proportions. The big "problem" I see in the body is that the top of the door frames is strange, a bit of XActo work will fix it. The detail is very nice, the wheels are fantastic. I have the Protar, Gunze, and Italeri kits, and they all have their strengths and weaknesses. A lot were upset that it wasn't the Italeri reissued. I don't know why, other than it's shape is more "traditional"...but again, when looking at pics of the exact car Protar did, they did get the shape correct. I think all of the kits could stand a set of the Model Factory Hiro wire wheels and tires; they're really nice.

The fastback may be out; I saw it listed on collectablediecast.com. I'm waiting to see if the squareback/fastback get offered w/the stock wheels like the notchback; my Dad had a '66 Type 3 fastback I'd like to recreate in scale, and I also like the squareback. Just not into the "bling" wheels and details. The Jada fastback looks good, but it's about 1/22 scale.

Thanks for posting the classes; even I hadn't seen that yet and I'm helping to run the show Henry says the early classes may be pretty light; so any early cars will be especially nice to see. I'm bringing an RS-60 and a 904 for the early class, and a couple of IROC RSR's for our IROC displays.

I use Formula 560 canopy glue; it's great stuff.