Zoom Zoom

I recommend foiling after. Others will recommend foiling before. It's only a matter of personal choice, it makes no difference to the adhesion or lifespan of the foil. I like to lightly polish the foil w/compound to brighten it up.

I used to rely on an old wire coat hanger, bent in a fashion that I could tape the body to it, and it made it's own stand as well. I have two commercially-available paint stands, both work well. I use the "Hold-It Easy" the most, but the Tamiya stand works well for some more oddly-shaped projects. I also use the four clamps that come with it all the time for holding smaller parts or trees. My Favorite Paint Stand Tamiya Paint Stand

Cool model of a bizarro car

I have three Dremel tools; the original corded unit, a big/heavy cordless unit, and the Stylus. The Stylus is hands-down my favorite. Easy to maneuver, lots of torque, wide speed range, fairly lightweight, excellent ergonomics. The big cordless one is great, but a bit clumsy to handle. I had asked for a cordless Dremel, expecting the smaller one that was available at the time, long before the Stylus came out. The others now only get used as backup...I'm not one to keep them on the chargers all the time, I only recharge when they run out of juice. I've used the corded unit perhaps twice in the past couple years

I'm in complete agreement. They could do the '62 Corvette the same way. I doubt that will happen, though. The "D" word isn't an easy sell to anyone anymore, especially to fussy model car enthusiasts.

Which is truly a shame, because the diecast T/A is by far the best example ever available as a kit. The '62 Corvette destroys the ancient AMT offering. Looks like any chance of building them will require picking up OOP diecast kits because it seems Revell lost interest in diecast to plastic conversions.

If you look closely at both the (diecast) 62 Corvette body and the Smokey/Bandit body, there are some very thick sections in their respective bodies, especially in front. Those thick sections would play havoc if shot in styrene; those areas would end up with terrible sink marks. Styrene needs to be shot with the fewest possible changes in part thickness. That alone probably precludes them being shot in styrene without investing in completely new body tools (with other ancillary parts probably necessary). People here complain enough about anything they feel is wrong, and you can be sure that ginormous sink marks would create 10 + pages of entertainment value on this forum.

Oh boy! More reissues! Where's the sarcasm font when you really need it? At least there's the 2010 Shelby. I guess there's no way to expect a current year model of a current year car from Revell anymore. Yeah, sarcasm font.

Thanks for the photos I'll be at the next one for sure.

You can go to the Fotki link to get the highest resolution (they are 1600X1200), the car was backed up close to another and didn't get any trunk/trim shots. I think there's another underhood shot in my album. I'll send them separately as well. If there weren't ~500 cars at this show I'd probably have taken more photos of the Falcon...but all those cars and my ADD...bad combination

This morning at our monthly Caffeine & Octane (click here for link to full album) there was a red '64 Falcon Sprint, a particularly well-cared-for car in very nice original shape. Since I have one on my workbench, I decided to take a few detail shots which should help somewhat with the build. I found some details that Trumpeter did quite well, like the fine engraving at the base of the windshield where the front fender meets the cowl. Take a good look at the grill texture. Ford used factory masks and black paint to define the floating grille pieces. I haven't looked at the kit valve covers again since taking these photos, but the ones on this car were chrome from the factory with a Sprint decal applied. Hope these photos are of some help to those who are or will be building a Falcon kit. One caveat: please do not use this thread or my photos to point out anything/everything you might see wrong with the Trumpeter Falcon. I took these photos to help myself and others building a Falcon kit, not to provide ammunition or entertainment value to people who have other agendas with the subject. Nothing more, nothing less. Thanks

A Scion xB with a VW badge. Yawn.

That's awesome, great work Now...Revell...do this in 1/25 scale. NOW.

Citroen DS Citroen SM BMW 3.0CSi BMW 2002 (1600) Triumph TR4 Triumph TR6 VW Type 3 (Notch, Fastback, Squareback) Fiat X1/9 Ferrari Lusso Porsche 993 Turbo & Turbo S (Italeri just isn't good enough) Bentley Continental Supersports Ferrari 599 GTO Ferrari FF Porsche 914-6 (1/24th widebody) BMW E46 M3 McLaren F1 Bugatti Veyron McLaren MP4-12C Rolls Phantom Drophead Coupé and Coupé Volvo P1800 Lamborghini Murcielago LP670-4 VW Bay Window van Mercedes Sprinter Sorry that I couldn't think of too many

Amen to that. There have been so many 2CV kits...I would have preferred the earlier version as well, but an SM would be great. At least the DS is finally represented in 1/24 scale, if not kits. Quattroruote had a 4 door in their series a couple years ago, and Welly currently does the cabriolet, in open or closed-top versions. I'd love to see a Tamiya or Revell AG DS or especially SM. Or BMW 2002...or 3.0CSi...or any number or popular subjects that haven't been done to death like 2CV's.

I have a couple modeling friends in Ringgold, GA where they had and EF4 tornado rip through. They are fine; one had some tree damage and a shed roof destroyed, but all around him his neighbors fared much worse. He did get out and took photos of his drive to work up across the TN border, where his plant also had some moderate (certainly not catastrophic) damage. The other had no damage at all, but his cable/internet are still out. The exit on I-75 for Ringgold is apocalyptic...all the restaurants/hotels/gas stations are thoroughly trashed if not destroyed. News has shown the McDonalds, Ruby Tuesday, and Food Lion...all places where I have eaten or bought groceries and gas...and that isn't even where the worst of the damage hit on the other side of town. People fled the interstate for shelter and it is an absolute disaster there. The same storm cell that leveled Tuscaloosa traveled all the way to NC. The tornado from it destroyed 30 homes at Lake Burton in far NE GA, killing a prominent businessman. The Atlanta area was in-between all the bad stuff. It was barely more than a rumbly thundershower when it hit. The wind was far worse for hours ahead of the actual storms.

I have old examples of models clearcoated w/Model Master clear that have yellowed terribly. One silver model looks horrible compared to a newer model painted in silver lacquers. One model was painted w/Pactra light purple; the roof was clearcoated and the interior parts painted the same color were not. The roof is now completely gray. The interior is still the proper color. Even Testors white will yellow all by itself...as the carrier in the paint is also the same kind of varnish. The Testors clear is a varnish, as it ages it yellows, and will color shift any color it is applied over. If you value your paintjobs and don't want your colors to yellow over time (especially any colors in the "cool" spectrum...white, silvers, blues)...do not use enamel clear. Yes, enamels are smooth to apply and polish out nicely, but I've moved far away from them and am very happy I have done so, judging by what's happened to my older models painted w/enamels that have yellowed.

Revell AG kits are molded in Poland, not China. They have the molds...send the bagged parts to US. If boxes are made in China, that's where Revell USA must get them. They get packaged in the US to get around tariffs for "complete" items. So it's actually cheapest to do this. It is no different really from any Revell US kit. Molded in China, shipped "unfinished", packaged in US. The only difference in this case is the bags of model kit parts are coming from Poland, not China.

Several hints: Tamiya colors like Pure White are relatively "thin" in regards to pigment. You really need to apply it either over fresh, white styrene or white primer. There might be an issue between using one brand of primer and another brand of paint. If you had used Tamiya fine white primer, you'd be doing backflips right now because it would look so incredibly good. I decant/airbrush Tamiya sprays, easier to build up mist coats and avoid the problem w/paint pulling away from edges, etc. But the main issue you are having is spraying white over gray.

A couple months back I traded some Emails w/Ed Sexton, he mentioned April for the next round of announcements, so I imagine it will be soon. Sounds like there may be some very interesting stuff coming. But in the meantime I have a Falcon and CRZ to build...talk about two vastly different subjects

I got 100%...had to think a bit on the hood ornaments. Next...

Looks pretty sweet The black paint looks perfect.

That is one gorgeous Firebird! Nice work

Looking and definitely do the brushed look on the side trim. If you change your name to Gregg Foose, you'll have to fill the side mirror holes as Foose hates side mirrors

I've been there a couple times when I used to go to the Detroit Auto show; I always found some great stuff and some great prices. It helps that I like foreign/exotic kinds of cars, aka the ones that can't sell in Michigan, so the prices were very nice indeed on some hard-to-find items.