Zoom Zoom

Twenty pages of outrage yet? Building is more fun than griping Oh, and Stevens has begun shipping the kits, so some may see them as early as this weekend.

MSRP on the Trumpeter kits is $50 vs. $30 for Moebius kits, both before any discounts. Let's just say Moebius is setting themselves up for accolades/attention/happy buyers in a way that Trumpeter doesn't seem to understand when it comes to car kits. If Revell had done the Falcon people would be complaining about it, even for half the price charged by Trumpeter. I fully understand why people are turned off by the Falcon; there just is no justification for a model with so many "excuses" and carrying a 100% premium over kits made by a company that does it better. By comparison, Moebius seems fully capable of making the decisions necessary to improve the product greatly between test shot and store shelf, based on honest human input, not just a beancounter mentality. As said before, the Falcon finished does look relatively attractive to my eyes, even less-than-perfect. It's not a grail, I just want one for some non-OOB fun. Overall I see it as a good improvement over an original...overall. The fact that it's so imperfect in many areas and sold as a premium item for a premium price, well...caveat emptor.

I'm good for one of them at least; the built model, warts and all, is pretty attractive as anyone can see from his incredibly sanitary build. It looks like there's no good reason in the world why it should cost a nickel more than a Revell kit, and as usual they don't seem to sweat the details much past the initial drawings. That's where the corner-cutting begins Now for all you guys savaging this kit like they made it look like a Rambler Lada , I've been comparing this to an original built '65 Falcon and if you guys think the chassis is whacked on the new kit, the vintage kit is really whacked. Wire axles, screws, nothing close to prototypical underhood detail...yes, the Trumpeter kit does look like it needs to be sealed up and injected with about 10 psi of air to get the body shape just right...I still think it will be a fun build. I have no idea in the world why they whiff on things like the exhaust and transmission...it's not like Trumpeter has ever gotten that stuff right, ever, have they? I'm kind of amazed these actually got to market. I'm interested in seeing the custom parts that come w/the convertible. It will be an interesting summer w/these new Falcons, Moebius Lonestars, Hudson Hornets and Chrysler 300's, Mustang GT's, and Fujimi doing a curbside AMG Mercedes SLS. Could be a fun little quasi-Trans Am vintage racer in this thing...

Wagons are C L

The yellow car is the one that used to be located near me and was owned by George Doughty and Knox Kershaw. I really wish I'd taken Mr. Kershaw up on his offer when I could

AFAIK, nothing was ever done as the car was much later than 1966. I'm kicking myself as there was a yellow one locally for years owned by an AMC collector, and he sold it to collector Knox Kershaw of Alabama; when he showed the car at the Amelia Island Concours d'Elegance, I struck up a conversation w/him and he invited me to his collection to photo/measure the car as I wanted to make a master. Well...I never had the chance to go there and he subsequently sold the car. I doubt Scale Kraft was doing the model...I would have known about it. He was working on a Mangusta which looked good but never got past the master stage. Nothing came of his masters/molds since he retired.

Since nobody has really answered your question... Yes, you need to clearcoat the paint. The Testors lacquers are designed to be a 2 stage base/clear system. The base coats are not very glossy and will not polish up to a gloss anything like, say, Tamiya spray pure white. The Testors paint doesn't have the clear carrier in the base coat. So yes...clearcoat it. Here's where it gets tricky; Testors clearcoat dries quickly and glossy, but many people report that you cannot wrap the car, even after it has cured for months, with anything, or you will damage the clearcoat. You can use Tamiya TS13 clear instead and that paint doesn't have the same issues w/wrapping. I recently painted a model w/Testors Honduras Maroon overcoated w/Tamiya clear red and then clear. It came out gorgeous; zero problems w/compatibility. I tested some of the Testors lacquer solid colors myself, to see if they could be buffed out w/o clear...they didn't buff out to an acceptable gloss (to me). Many others are satisfied with it. I'm not. Maybe for replicating a model of a car with aged paint... Your paint likely wasn't cured enough before you did the foiling. I use a dehydrator, I don't have paint cure problems...after overnight in the dehydrator, anything I've sprayed is ready for sanding, buffing, whatever.

Thanks for the replies! Thanks; the problem w/the letters is they should not be translucent at all. In fact they should be solid red w/a thin white outline, but I'd be happy w/just solid bright red. What's on the model now is rushed for the Anniston show, I'll peel those off the windows when I print out some better decals. Hopefully I'll have this thing finished before the show up in SC next month.

Nice, love the phantom livery

The first time I saw one of these cars I knew I had to build a model of it. Having built a couple of the new Charger police cars, I piggybacked the build of this much-simpler model of the local Dekalb County Magnum police cruiser. I started with Revell's 1/24 scale ultra-blinged out "Uptown" Magnum R/T, as it was not an SRT8. I glued the scissor doors in place, made some door handles, filled in the moonroof, used the front push bar, wheels/tires from a diecast Charger police kit, and one of the lightbars from the new plastic Charger police car. It's metallic black and silver, decals were printed by me on a friend's Alps and a color laser printer. I have to redo the red decals on the windows as I printed them on the laser and they're far too translucent. I still have to add police goodies to the interior, lay out/print a license plate, and add front/rear strobe lights and some antennae. Very fun, relatively simple curbside.

This is a model I built several years ago, and tonight I finally got around to replacing a missing side marker lamp and cleaning it up and getting much better photos of it than the first time around. While a real Mazdaspeed RX8 is a rare sight, Fujimi did an okay job with theirs but like all their RX8 kits, the front end shapes are a bit off. I still enjoyed building it, it's painted in light gunmetal with a cobalt blue pearl overcoat then clear. It's pretty much OOB.

Ebay Motors is a good place to start, and when you do a Google search, if you search for "1965 Mustang Fastback Interior" or "1965 Mustang 2+2 Interior" you find a lot of useful photos.

Ditto. Beautiful model, but yeah...Revell whiffed on the wheels (and generic-sidewall tires). I don't like ZR1 wheels to begin with. Not helped by the fact that 99% of dealers or buyers or whatever think the chrome/polished ones look so good that their car has to have them. Bleccch. The wheels are offered in better finishes, but you wouldn't know it by what is on most of the cars. I have to say this, sometimes an undersized wheel doesn't look bad (of course I'd much rather it be right), but the ZR1 wheels just look especially small especially if the model is built w/the OOB stance. There really is no excuse in 2011 with new models coming out with newly-tooled wheels and tires not to get the diameter correct. I guarantee there are still kit designers out there that have no freaking idea that a 19" wheel when measured across will be about 20.5" because of the tire retaining lip. Why they continually make this mistake is beyond me

Looks great, I like your extra detailing. Fun kit, isn't it?

Nowadays I'm even lazier w/decanting; I wear disposable gloves and hold the straw up next to the nozzle and spray into the cup. Very little mess, if any, and I shoot in the spray booth itself on newspaper. If I decant more than I need, I save it in a glass jar for the next time (clear, semigloss and flat black I use all the time, so I save what is left if any).

I've already built two of 'em, a third started....and while I haven't taken any beauty shots of this one yet, it was simple/dirty fun w/the Uptown Magnum and parts from the diecast Charger police car, and one of the lightbars from the Charger police car (plastic kit). Home-made graphics...I'm making new "warning police dog stay back" decals for the rear glass, and have a few more interior & exterior parts to install:

That's one 'spensive engine there, Chuck That said, it's nice. Though I might be tempted to do a bit of self-casting to save a few $$ and make more than one

Yeah, I'm not a big fan of polished wheels. I'm pretty sure the LFA wheels can be silver, polished, gray, or black.

Alternating is good, but I don't use many of the grits on final polish. I use the heavier grits (1500-2400) for primer, and 3200/4000 for getting out dust nibs, but w/most models shot w/Tamiya clear I buff out after 4000 grit w/Tamiya coarse compound which is made for the paint, works wonders. I like doing the heavy duty wetsanding in the coats beneath the final clear or color.

No It's not like just a second instrument panel will work, there are other parts that would need to be changed as well (I don't have my kit with me at the moment). I saw the first LFA that was delivered in the US the morning after he brought it home. LFA #003, the guy ordered it in 2005. If the model were a US version I'd build it like the local one...but it is "only" silver (like 80% of all Lexus?), but still looks pretty wild. Black/red interior. I took tons of detail shots of it, too big a crowd around it to get overall shots. I'm happy to have the model, but I'd be buying multiples if it were a Ferrari 599 GTO or Lamborghini Aventador. Just sayin'....

Got mine a couple weeks ago $85 in the US full retail.

If anyone else is going to build the model, here are some detail shots I took of the car last year:

Correct. I even did a spoon test to prove this and show it to club members at our last meeting. Real cars painted in metallics/pearls have a dull finish before clear. It's okay if the paint is reasonably smooth, the clear is what adds the gloss. If you want smooooooth, wetsand the color and then shoot a thinner coat of the same color through an airbrush, then apply clear.

Nice That's the first built kit I have seen of it; a friend of mine has the same kit. I have the builtup version that was offered many years ago; the parts all seem to match between it and the kit. Very unique piece, and I'm glad I've been able to see the 1:1 car at both the Blackhawk Museum and the Amelia Island Concours d'Elegance a year ago.

Nope; I was just visiting...Tim Kolankiewicz should have that list.