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I saw the photo and said "wow, that looks like mine" then I read the story...nice job! Needless to say, I love it Thanks for the comments, glad it inspired you!

Hmmm..I just realized I have (or had) a '64 Falcon Sprint annual rebuilder...I think. If I didn't sell it due to boredom. Next time I'm digging in the basement, I'll see if I can scare it up. Typical builtup w/everything unpainted, except a poorly spray painted (yellow enamel) body. The best kind of rebuilder...and it was cheap. I have a nicely built '65, builder unknown, all it needs is BMF applied over the silver-painted chrome. It's a nice off-white w/red trim. I'm sure the Testors white was a lot brighter when new I'm a lot more interested in '64 Sprints now that I've seen photos of them racing on road courses.

I see some issues w/the inset side chrome compared to photos of the real car. Looks like the painted-in-contrast center portion is too wide. Perhaps painted/detailed it won't be so obvious. So they simplified the kit to "Revell plus", which is good, but priced it at Revell X 2. For a relatively boring, mainstream car. A risky move, indeed. The ball is in their court, I hope it's a fun build, I too wish them great success. I can't help but think this kit is aimed directly at the adult crowd, the same one that griped to no end when they lost their $10 kit "fix" at Wal Mart.

Nice work I built two of these, I had no trouble at all w/transfers on the first one, but the second one the engine lettering was giving me fits (both models I painted that upper intake with Tamiya white primer), a couple of the letters just didn't want to stick down. I made it work, but it was amazing how different the experience was between the two.

Ferrari 599 GTO & 599XX based upon Revell AG (or Fujimi) 599 GTB. '69 Mercury Marauder X100 derived from AMT '69 Galaxie 1/25 70 Trans Am & 74 SD 455 from AMT '70 Camaro. '98-newer Crown Vic & Marauder based on Lindberg '97 Crown Vic. '61 Ventura based on AMT '62 Bel Air, '62 Catalina, or Lindberg '61 Impala. 2012 GT & Boss Mustang based on Revell 2010 Mustang GT.

I have yet to build one (I bought Bonneville HT and Nova HT years ago at HL for 50% off), so I haven't learned about those issues "the hard way", but I heartily agree I'm good for a Falcon HT and perhaps CV, if they meet my expectations and what others report after they are issued. I'm not buying them sight-unseen. I do hope they learned their lessons. The '65 Falcon CV they recently showed is intriguing, with what looks like optional speedster parts...chopped, wrap-around windscreen, hood scoop, custom wheels, T-bird-like tonneau cover behind the front seats. Certainly has potential "cool factor" (a poor man's Barris Super Marauder?!) that's missing from the factory stock stuff. They don't need to go kitchen-sink with their models..."Revell-plus" would be just fine, and potentially less costly. There's a reason Fujimi isn't still making new "Enthusiast" kits. There's a reason Accurate Miniatures doesn't have more car models on the market. Modelers don't have a problem with more humble models, if the basics are right...the aftermarket and kitbashing offer better solutions than overwrought "dreams in a box" that are rarely realized. Make it right, make it fun, don't overwhelm the builder, kit engineers, or tooling guys with a bunch of needless complexity that's only truly enjoyed by few. There's a real sweet spot they could exploit if they do it right, but they have to convince us that they're capable of it, and actually follow through with it, and then face a (jaded) buying public that will determine their ultimate success.

Yep, and the biggest issues are when you choose to open up the front compartment and put in all those parts. I believe it's the firewall that makes for the most "fun". After building multiples of this kit, I learned to leave everything you can't see in front of the dash off the chassis, because otherwise there's lots of agonizing work to make the stupid thing fit together as intended.

By now one would think that an all-new Trumpeter kit could elicit a lot more enthusiasm rather than so much "sitting on the sidelines" skepticism. For $50, I'm sure I'm not alone with high anticipation, but lowered expectations. I hope they prove skeptics wrong; delivering an accurate, no-excuses fun-to-build kit that raises the bar and make amends with mainstream model car builders for past transgressions. The ball is in their court...

I have a new favorite, Revell's new Ferrari 458 Italia. My favorite new mid-engine Ferrari since the 308 series (including 288 GTO and F40). And it is an excellent kit. I want to build 3 or 4 more. I sure hope Revell does a 599 GTO.

Sad fact is that this year the ALMS is trumpeting their "groundbreaking" deal to televise the races on ABC or ESPN2, and live stream the races via ESPN3 and the ALMS website. The ABC/ESPN2 TV coverage will be recaps of the races, a day after the fact. Let's just say we can call it the "1 and a half hours of Sebring" or "The Petit Petit LeMans The ALMS also conveniently glossed over the fact that there would be ZERO live televised coverage of any ALMS races. You want it live? You better have a good internet connection. You want to watch the race on a big screen w/your racing buddies? You better have some way to hook up your TV to your internet. You want to record the race? Good luck with that Speed apparently demanded that the ALMS pay 100% of the production costs for all the races...obviously Speed is controlled by the same folks that have control over the Rolex/Grand Am series. Nice turn of events, eh? I have to wonder how much Speed will strangulate LeMans this year. I have a feeling it won't be that many more years before the only way to see LeMans will be via the internet. Speed Channel is a cancer. Imagine if people were told the Superbowl, the Daytona 500, etc. were going to be recaps the next day, or live only via the web.

I don't really think the Olds would be a blockbuster, but then again...the basic car doesn't do much for me (I'd rather have a fastback Caddy or Buick..in fact, wouldn't even need to be a fastback, I just like the Caddy & Buick a lot more). The Stude was much more controversial and unique...it was laughed at when they were merely used cars. I'd love a kit of that. I think the Hudson would be a lot more popular than the Olds...again, w/today's market, unique is good, but Hudsons are well-known and the movie and stock car connections make it even better. There were rumors at one time AMT was thinking about a Tucker...neat idea, not sure about commercial success...not many ways to make multiples out of that, but making a really cool street rod/custom variation would help. I have one of the diecast Olds banks, they seemed to be everywhere and dirt cheap...as others have shown, a little bit of rework and they look great.

Very nice, great choice of color. I have to admit, as a coupe, I prefer this over the E Type as well...it's the roofline that makes the difference. But the E-Type roadster I definitely like better than the convertible version of this car.

I've shot it, wasn't terribly impressed. It's like Tamiya Italian Red with barely a whiff of mica; the model presents as Italian Red. I've seen an FXX (real car at the track) done in the mica red F1 color from several years back (the first year of the change) and that color looked identical to plain Tamiya Mica Red. Not really sure whether this paint is a match, I haven't seen a real Ferrari F1 car that this color that TS-85 supposedly matches. For anyone wanting a nice mica red, use the regular stuff. It's a good basecoat for a pearl midcoat...I've tried that, but mostly to use it up.

The reason you don't "get it" is probably because you can only envision it being an agonizing endeavor that you are "forced" into. Nobody is "forced" to do this. They do it because they want to. They do it because it is fun. For the groups working together, it's a social gathering. Friends, food, models, watching a race. Again...fun. That is the point! I don't "get" how people don't "get" it The guys that have been doing these builds for years enjoy it...and they get more people involved every year...they get it, and they're having fun...even for the most rigid of builders, it's an excellent way to "loosen up" and clear the cobwebs out. The guys that don't finish? They have fun too, getting done whatever they manage to get done. And it also helps to do a 24 hour build in a group setting...it's a lot more fun than building solo.

Don't sell yourself short! The first time guys in my club did a 24 hour build (we do it annually for LeMans and build models of cars that raced LeMans), we had a younger member of our club join us who had *never* built and finished a model *ever*. He did a Revell Corvette C5R...and it came out fantastic. You'll see his work on this forum under GTMike400, he scratchbuilds nearly everything now...he still needs coaching on building something OOB but if he starts from scratch and machines/fabricates it...watch out! He asked questions when necessary, we coached him on what paint to use, we have a "dehydrator farm" to force dry painted parts. I've seen enough successes from these builds to know that nearly anyone can pull it off if they try, and not be embarrassed with the results. First, pick a subject suitable for the timeframe. Curbsides/snap kits are abundant, many are excellent, and they generally have very manageable parts count. Second, familiarize yourself with the kit before the day of the build. Sometimes there are rules, like no pre-paints, only glue X number of parts ahead of time, start unpainted, or start w/the model in primer. Rules are good, but don't be afraid to stretch them a bit...remember, you want to have fun. Every race team stretches rules... Our group allows fully primed bodies for the LeMans build. A builder can show up with all the parts clipped, nipped, dressed and ready for paint/assembly (our group allows that). So you can spend time getting the model prepped to a point, getting your ducks in a row...it's not like you show up w/o cracking the box ahead of time. Again...this maximizes fun and the ability to finish on time. Endurance race teams don't show up cold, they've built/rebuilt their car repeatedly, they show up with tons of preparation. Last year I cheated like mad...my "primer" was gloss white paint that somehow was miraculously polished ahead of time though I did have to mask/apply racing stripes w/my airbrush. I had already built the subject before, and knew it was fairly painless. I ended up w/a nice model, and about 5 hours of sleep that night. Again, while the challenge is in the building of the model, at least in a group setting it's really about being with friends and having fun. That also is important to have "group support" to help other builders if they reach some sort of snag. Sometimes we'll help each other, I'll help someone w/paint, they might help me w/some decals. That kind of thing. To those previously uninitiated in that kind of building, it often really opens up their eyes and creativity, and they usually accomplish much more than they ever expected, and learn techniques that they can use on every model...endurance racing is a team sport, a 24 hour build can be similar. We've thought about doing a group build sometime, building one fully-detailed model, with people responsible for different areas of the build. Or doing assembly-line style, all building the same model, one person working body, another interior, another chassis, another engine, combining effort for some areas and finishing. There are lots of ways to approach it. Avoid old-school supplies that hinder progress...don't use enamels, tube glue, and old-fashioned air-curing putties. Lacquers, super glue and kicker, and dehydrators are all highly recommended, and exploited for all they are worth by the group builders.

I have some limited experience w/Mr. Surfacer 1000, both from a jar and spray can. Also some limited experience with Tamiya bottled primer. With Tamiya spray primer gone from store shelves for who-knows-how-long (they wouldn't answer that question on their Facebook page), I was looking for an alternative. I've had a couple jars of Mr. Surfacer 1000 for years, so I tried it through my airbrush. Thinned w/their own "Mr. Color Thinner", I was amazed at how smooth/glossy it lays down. It could totally make me never miss Tamiya spray primer again, if not for the convenience factor of shooting their primer w/o the need to set up/clean the airbrush. Thinned w/acetone, I didn't get nearly as good results...it dried too rapidly when atomized, so much thinner was required to keep it wet when it hit the surface, that it just didn't work well. I did not try it with standard lacquer thinner. That said, I always have Mr. Color Thinner on the bench, it's perfect for adding a few drops to decanted Tamiya sprays, or even Testors lacquer sprays. As far as I'm concerned, that is the only thinner I need to use w/the bottled Mr. Surfacer. I never have airbrushed the bottled Tamiya surface primer. I did use it doing some bodywork. I had a custom model that gave me nothing but problems with blistering when I put it in the dehydrator. I figured it was something to do w/the putty, or the final paint reacting with the plastic, or putty, or primer...it wasn't until the next model, where I did some very prelim. work and dabbed just a bit of the primer on one joint...and it blistered...that I realized that 6 months of agonizing custom work on a model that nearly saw me destroy it, was due to the Tamiya liquid primer, brushed on vs. airbrushed, that did not like to be put in the dehydrator. Lesson learned, it never happened again

The "Ultra" isn't. It's awful. Get the newest, latest "improved" plain old standard chrome foil, and it works properly. That said, a couple years ago they came out with a "new, improved" formula that was horrible in every way possible. BMF had a distinct problem w/the foil shrinking/cracking on the backing sheet over time, they reformulated it, and after that it I could not trim it properly, it tore most times trying to remove it from the backing, even with brand, new blades. The adhesive was far too strong, it left a lot of residue, and to top it off...the adhesive was applied with a foam roller...this gave the foil "built in" orange peel. You could apply the foil over glass, and there was no way it would be smooth. Not only that, but they also coated the outer surface of the foil, so you couldn't buff it to a high gloss sheen. It was a complete disaster. But...they reformulated again. Early last year I bought a new sheet, and it was back to being a good product. I will say that sheet has shown signs of minor wrinkling on the backing, but I do not see any cracks. So far it has worked well...I don't use a lot of it since I build so many Euro, Japanese, and modern subjects. Problem is the new packaging that says "new and improved" is identical to the earlier "new and improved" that was absolutely horrible. Make sure you are buying fresh stock. And stay far away from "Ultra". Anyone who can buff paint w/compound can make standard BMF chrome look 10X better than the phony looking "Ultra".

I'm pretty sure the trailer got added to the '72 Impala kit; I had a '71 when I was a kid and also a '72...the '71 had all that nonsensical optional "spoof" stuff , whereas the '72 came prepainted like a promo and with the trailer that continued until the end of the line in '76.

Japan to China...faster, more fun

Or shoot the model in hobby lacquers; I built two DBS kits and primed them w/Tamiya primer, and shot them with decanted Tamiya sprays. The synthetic lacquers like Tamiya and Testors sell don't cause any ghosting...or I have yet to experience any. Though if automotive primer is used and that causes ghosting, it can reappear w/subsequent coats of Tamiya or Testors. The idea is to use hobby primer too, that doesn't begin the whole process of ghosting.

Very nice, my buddy in HS had one that looked identical (he bought it from his grandmother when he wrecked his '64 Chevelle), but it had a 307 w/3 speed automatic. Sure brings back memories...nice work

You wouldn't have to cut, I'd gladly let you take the spot. Now if it were a Caribbean...all bets are off

Oh boy...if Moebius were to do either early or late '40's Packards Could be the swoopy '47 or the pregnant elephant '48. Yeah, I'd be very much in line with my cash

I really love what you are doing to this model; it's got a lot more character than the "plain white" original

I could live with that, but in the interim I really...really want Revell Germany to do the 599 GTO. I'm about to embark on the GTB, now that I found a color scheme that I like.