Zoom Zoom

It's a Citroen. As Citroen concepts go, it's pretty tame and sober. One can't expect a Citroen concept to look like a McBoring.

I hear it has a rather jiggly ride.

One of my friends has bought two different Revell AG (Germany) kits from one particular Hobbytown, a store that is not near his home, and found out (both times) after getting home that the body was missing. One was the 250 GTO and the other more recently was the Ferrari California HT. I have a Protar 250 GTO (same kit) for parts, so I gave him all the body pieces for that (molded in red vs. white for the Revell issue). Never has happened to me...

Thanks! So whose Johan MB was that?

Um...where's the link to the album?

Very nice, glad to see one built so soon Your issues w/the intake/hood hinge are common amongst all the 'Vette glue kits; happened to me when I built a Z06 and I heard a lot about it when people were building the earlier C6's. I've almost convinced myself to build one in yellow w/black wheels as sort of an homage to the C6R's. We shall see...I haven't even seen the kit yet, but haven't gone looking for it.

Nice work That was the first Enthusiast kit I built as well; it's actually kind of simple compared to later EM's. Building IROC Porsches from the '74 RS kits a few years ago was fun...considering the tooling is well-worn on them now. I remembering having fun building the Turbo...it's clearly not one of my stellar builds by comparison to what I do today (and clearly inferior to this build), but that was 25 years ago...excuses, excuses... ;)

I'm looking forward to the SL65, and might pick up the Scoobie and CRZ...but to be honest, they're not nearly as cool as the SL...I loved building the SL63 and was hoping all along that they'd do the Black Series car What's really interesting is Hasegawa getting into the 1/12 racing motorcycle business... And where's the Lexus LF-A from Tamiya?

Interesting paint job, for sure. Have you had a chance to test fit the interior/chassis? Reason being...I see you glued on the side panels. There is a big undercut there where the base of the rockers meets the chassis...having just finished a stock OOB ACR, I don't have any idea how you'll get the chassis in w/o major stretching of the body...and potential damage to the work you've done. I didn't realize this fully until I had built mine completely. You may invent some new language trying to get it together at the end...just a head's up ;)

You and me both. And it doesn't even have to be the Speed Channel...I blame them for the rapid demise of WRC (apparently it's not nearly as good as it was previously when we did get coverage...many manufacturers have fled the series). I will say I was more impressed and in awe of Ken Block's first big video when he was still driving a Subaru and was in/out of that hangar. That was truly mindblowing...the new video is cool, but the stunts seemed better before...maybe because it was so new/different?

I wouldn't buy any. But that's just me. The 3 they're coming out with, I'll get all of 'em. Give me a Duel combo...Peterbilt, tanker, and Valiant, w/Dennis Weaver driver figure. That's the ultimate Moebius setup I can think of

I have never taken a photo of it, but that's essentially the racer that I have a resin body of. From a company in Germany (I think) that makes them for slot racing, a company called Ditech, BMW Z3 Coupe LM. It's just a body, a flat piece of printed clear "windows", and some paper patterns... It's better than starting from scratch, but it's not going to be easy to get it together and complete. Lots of grinding, some filling, figuring out what do do w/the interior...it also is lacking the lower front fender vent. I saw the car in your photo above several times when visiting the museum, which is near my Mom's house (and she drives a Z3 as well...still loves it...she's 86 years old).

Not sure why they balked on those, some have claimed that griping over issues with the Mustang interiors was the reason, but that is only rumor AFAIK...however the Corvette has a design issue w/the body that might make injecting it in plastic a big problem. The entire front end around the grille/headlights is one big, thick section of plastic. It could easily cause big, nasty sink marks because those thick and varied wall sections go against proper tooling design for plastic injection...perhaps they simply could not get acceptable results without too much retooling of expensive body components. Glad I got a diecast kit to play with...it sure is a lot nicer than the old AMT '62. I was looking forward to both in plastic. The Trans Am was a nice one to build, I did replace the lame generic tires with some vintage Monogram radials. It too is a far better kit than the old AMT/MPC Trans Am.

Can someone please drop a sledgehammer on this?

Thanks; I made tape tape patterns of the panels that were going to be covered, and scanned it so that my artwork/decal would fit well when applied. The laser-printed decals are also pretty thin, so they laid down nicely w/only a little help from Micro Set/Micro Sol. The kit is a curbside. I have a second kit with an obscure European resin body conversion to make it into a race car. Will take a ton of work...but they make neat race cars.

I think it might have been a tinted flow coat; IIRC I threw the body in a container of 99% isopropyl and shortly thereafter I was able to wipe the body clean of the "paint"..it remained blue but the residue had a blue tint to it.

I believe it was only issued one time by Revell AG and was commissioned by Dragon. Typical of Dragon BMW's, it was predecorated and a bit tricky to get it all apart to paint it properly. The kit was always quite scarce in the US, and it's not a particularly great kit to begin with. But it's the only game in town, and I did manage to build one to represent the very last of the 1st generation M Coupes built in Spartanburg, SC. It was on display with the final 1st generation M Roadster and Z3...the M Coupe was white, the M Roadster was red, the Z3 roadster was blue...a rather fitting final run of the US-built Z3's. I made the decals myself.

Well, there goes my appetite

I was also under the assumption that the '62 was based on the '64. I don't own a '64 Revell Impala, but a friend brought one to a club meeting for me to look at. They are not the same...I was wrong. Biggest change is the '62 has the frame molded integrally with the chassis, the floorboard/interior stack on top of the chassis...the floorboard of the '64 is molded as part of the chassis and there's a completely separate frame.

I agree...AMT's lowest of low was when they went to Mexico. The chrome was worse than abysmal. The Revell '62 Impala is a sweetheart of a kit; mine was of nearly the same quality of and went together like a Tamiya kit...and we all know any new full-detail (and even those don't have complete engines) Tamiya kit these days is 3X the cost of a Revell kit. I'm pretty sure Tamiya also outsources molds and production to lower-production-cost Asian countries.

The part is not warped, it's shaped that way to fit the top of the radiator support between the two front fenders. I've been buying & Revell kits since the '70's. The quality from China is consistently higher than what Revell had previously. Even more so when we talk about AMT products.

These sound great...not a subject matter I'd usually be drawn to, but something about them is making me think I have to get and build at least one of them. Thanks for the info!

I'm not sure if it's still a problem, but in the earlier days of Tamiya lacquer sprays, if you shot the clear outside of the "within one hour of color or after a month of curing" window, it would very likely crack. I know people who had this happen, and sometimes months after the paint was applied. I've always applied at least some clear in the 1 hour window of color coats, so it's never been a problem. If you plan a 2-tone job, you should spray at least a mist coat of clear on the first color before it's masked for the second color, and apply clear within an hour of shooting the second color. Make sure the paint is cured well before masking. I also use a dehydrator, which makes wait times for paint curing (and putty, and decals) exponentially shorter.

Nice I also have one mint in the box that I intend to build. A second has the box and had a little light assembly, was missing hood and one of the headlight units, I was able to get a resin hood from a caster who is no longer in business, and I cast the second headlight piece myself. The headlights themselves on the '69 kits seem small. I also have a mint unbuilt '66...I intend to built it as a convertible

Very nice! I built one too. Very enjoyable kit, and even with the complexity of the body, it all fit together quite nicely.