Zoom Zoom

I wish there was a model of this

So this one makes the Bullitt too. Okay... Good news for the parts box. Bad news for the dedicated Bullitt kit...

Very nice

I know the California is all-new (and my least favorite Ferrari since the Mondial and 348...does nothing for me so far...), but does anyone know the story on the Samba and Trabbi? Are they all-new, modified reissues, or ?? Seems odd if they're all-new, especially the Samba since it's already been done twice before, by Revell and Hasegawa. The offshore boat and the cargo ship are interesting...I need to get the Predator yacht whenever it comes in.

I never heard similar complaints from issue 119/December 2006 when Bill had a very similar 7 page spread featuring a story around a 1924 Napp Darrow 5-ton truck I probably leafed right past that one too and returned later to delve into the story.

Those are awesome Where did you get the Halibrands? HRM? This is great timing; I just got those decals myself when I found they had the 614 decals for the '63 Corvette; I'll be building that pretty soon using the Revell curbside kit. I had the same idea as you for using my '60 MPC reissue 'Vette kit.

Oh yeah, I like that All it needs now is poverty caps

Actually Meguiars Scratch-X is quite agreeable with hobby enamels. It's a polish, not a wax, doesn't have the chemical base that eats soft enamel paint like some of their other products. I can usually tell by the smell of a polish if it's safe on model paint. Meguiars Scratch-X and Kit Scratch-Out work pretty much just like Novus #2. When I first heard about The Treatment I got a tube of it; and even it was a bit too strong for some of my enamel paint jobs; I already had Novus by then so I stuck with that for many years. I'm pretty sure Scratch-X is safer than The Treatment. I've tried it on enamel and it's just fine (even though I rarely shoot enamels anymore). Tamiya compounds are also good on enamel. These polishing compounds won't etch the paint, the only way they do anything to the paint is from the friction of buffing. What's especially nice about Scratch-X and Scratch-Out is they are commonly available almost everywhere (Wal Mart, Target). If you don't have a LHS or want to mail order, it will work on pretty much any paint you can use on a model, from the hobby stuff to the automotive stuff. My favorite combo is Tamiya TS sprays and their own compounds. They work amazingly well together, often so well that wet sanding the final coats with Micromesh is unnecessary, or just a quick scuff with 3600/4000 and then right to the compound. Turtle Wax must have changed something; I tried their polishing compound and wax in years past (we're talking 20+ years ago) and it was waaaay too strong for hobby enamels. I suspect that some of those older compounds are also too harsh on modern clearcoat paints so perhaps the formula has changed.

Google Image Search: Chamois Cloth

*Sarcasm Alert* If there is any shred of truth to this story whomever is in charge of financing it might as well start stuffing Bernie and Max's pockets, pay the royalty stipend to Ferrari and just move on and not bother with the racing part of it. Or dump all the money in a bonfire. End result will be the same and they'll waste far less of everyone's time

Revell apparently didn't change the interior to '68 specifications when they modified the body tooling from the '67 Shelby GT500. Does anyone remember that kit? It was predecorated in light blue metallic w/white stripes. IIRC it's one of Revell's earliest diecast kits. That's why overall the model isn't as up to par as some of the later diecast-derived kits like the WRX, '62 Corvette, '77 Trans Am, '58 Chevy.

I think this is a perfectly worthy O/T subject that doesn't need to be pork-barrel spammed Thanks for that Doobie Brothers link Mr. 1/16th! It's pretty cool how You Tube makes it so easy for us to connect with music and videos of our past. If you like background music on your computer w/o video, hit up Pandora and let them create playlists based upon the music you like personally. I find the following piece to be pretty cool. A combination of one of my favorite '70's rock-era productions "Fool's Overture", played by the original artist Roger Hodgson from Supertramp with the backing of a full symphony orchestra. Fool's Overture Here's another fun one w/some classical influence by ELO: Rockaria! This was incredible live in concert. The train ride starting at 3:30 is just too cool. Perhaps it was cooler way back when we inhaled. Rudy This one is for chillaxin'. One of Tangerine Dream's best pieces; no official video though. Song of the Whale, Pt. 2 Any red-blooded male who grew up with MTV (remember when it was about music?) knows this one by heart. They didn't need to be talented musically Addicted To Love A live rendition of another opus of epic proportion. This one's not really a music video, found it on "Jalopnik" blog recently. But it has speed and purpose. Maglev train in Shanghai, China with speed references to various supercars/exotics that go between 190-260 MPH, none of which go as fast as this epic 268 MPH train. It's a 19 mile ride in 7 minutes. $8 round trip from Pudong Airport to Long Yang station in Shanghai. Background tune "Choke" by Hybrid is the perfect accompaniment to the video. "Wish you a good journey".

Yes, they are safe. I would never recommend a polish that wasn't safe on enamel nor one I had not already tried. Novus/Meguiars Scratch X and Kit Scratch Out work by friction/buffing, not by chemical reaction. They don't have the petroleum-based additives that make some polishes kill enamels. They're quite safe on enamel. Tamiya compound is also good on enamel. I can usually tell by the smell of a polish whether it's good on hobby paint or too strong. I'm pretty certain the Bare Metal Foil polish is just re-packaged Novus #2. Smells and works exactly the same. Found that out 20+ years ago, long before Novus became a standard for polishing model paint jobs.

Either a well-stocked hobby shop, internet are the best sources for Novus. I have seen it at motorcycle dealers (great for polishing scratches out of visors), commercial plastic supply houses, and I used to see it at The Container Store. You won't Novus at common auto parts stores. If you want a good cream polish that is easy to find and very similar to Novus #2, get some Meguiars Scratch X or Kit Scratch Out, those can be found in a lot of stores like Target, Wal Mart, etc. If you use Tamiya sprays w/any frequency, get their three grades of compound...coarse, fine, finish...they work amazingly well on their own paint.

I think it's an awesome article. At first when I skimmed the magazine I was a bit unsure, but I read the whole thing and really looked at the photos and realized Bill's models are always inspiring. If you ever get the chance to see them in person at a show, they're a real treat to look at. Subtle details that can have you studying it for hours...great stuff.

Revell didn't have a test shot of the Challenger in October at the hobby show. I doubt they'll have it ready for sale by April. It was supposed to be available late August 2008.

It says nothing about full glue kits, I doubt that Revell would kill all new Corvette models merely because they won't be making the curbside promos. It might limit future curbside Corvette kits, but I would assume a ZR1 full-detail kit would have to be on Revell's radar. Now if GM/Chrysler/Ford and ?? go out of business, that would definitely affect kits. If there's been any tooling done for those promos (like wheels), we may see them in future curbside C6's. I haven't bought/collected promos in a long time. It's too bad if the only way you can get the pace cars is via promos, but w/GM's dire situation I can imagine promos are the easiest kind of expense to cut, if the product doesn't make them enough money.

Love the paint scheme. Looks cool to me in a sort of generic LMP1 way. Coming from a design background, that means it looks to my eyes a lot better than the generic Daytona Prototype shapes...not a sleight to anyone who likes that series, but it just hurts my eyes to look at pretty much any of the spec-shapes that any of the NASCAR-ized series foist on the racing public. It's as if they want their cars to look fugly

Sorry, I figured you may have known more about it since you have posted here with some frequency. Don't sweat it, it's happened before, because people who aren't here often didn't know the rules or the "secret handshake" or whatever Come back each week, it's a fun diversion.

Dude...do you realize that you aren't supposed to blurt out the answer, so you don't ruin it for others? Harry...again, I think you need to put the rules clearly in the post...every single week.

Beautiful build

Beware; I've tested Mirrachrome's "Killer Chrome" (the stuff in the spray can) and was rather disappointed. My spoon test showed the best results w/a product made primarily for R/C bodies called Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome, which is a bit better than Alclad II. Didn't matter if the Killer Chrome was sprayed from the can or airbrushed, it just didn't have the same reflective appearance as the hobby paints. None of these "chromes" are very durable. None of them seem to like any kind of clear applied over them to protect the chrome surface. Any clear, even the ones made for the job, significantly reduces the reflection of the thin layer of "chrome" paint. If the interior parts are such that you could make your own bare metal foil from household foil, you might try that. Microscale has a chrome foil adhesive. I would think this may be a much more viable and permanent way to get the parts to look good and have some level of durability, beyond sending the chrome parts out for replating. I have yet to test it, but I have new cans of Tamiya gold and silver "chrome" that are applied over their TS14 gloss black. I'll add it to my "Spoon Test" album soon. Chrome Test

Vewwy twicky. I say real.

If you want to save the headlight/grille decals you can't strip the paint, far too messy a job and it will ruin any masking. Sounds like you'll need to carefully mask/sand/refinish.

Nice work John! Most people don't know that these Lindberg classics will yield very nice models with the right detailing. Any major issues with the kit? I had to fight chassis/engine stuff on my Bugatti Royale because the instructions were so poor (as was my familiarity with the subject).