Ace-Garageguy

Nothing looks more like metal than metal. Nice work.

"Blushing" is when a whitish film forms on the surface of freshly-sprayed paint, sometimes close to edges or panel lines, or where coats are overlapped a little too heavily. It's caused by moisture in the air condensing on the surface as solvents evaporate out of paint, cooling it. It's almost impossible to photograph well, as it just looks like a slightly white area. Lacquer is sensitive to humidity, and will blush if it's high...but the white film will usually come off of the paint after it's dry with a very gentle application of polishing compound. Some enamels will blush too. It's usually not a problem with gloss paints, as polishing them only makes them look better. But if a flat color blushes, polishing it will make it glossier than it's supposed to be, and spoil the flat finish.

I'm 99% sure you'll be OK. I'd suggest you try a test of the flat black though, because if it DOES blush, you can't polish the blushing out without ruining the "flat" effect.

Got him.

If you're shooting lacquer it MAY blush...which will polish off after it's dry. If you're shooting enamel, it may dry a little slower. Generally 50 or 60% humidity isn't a problem.

That's the Riley 4-port I mentioned above. It's not the same as the one kitted, the Riley 2-port, and has the 4 intake ports on the opposite side from the 2-port. You can't make them out in the photo above, but there are 4 intake ports there.

Either. Just depends on the depth of the pockets of the builder, or how good a machinist / fabricator he was. The tall Vertex magneto came out in the late 1930s and could be adapted to just about anything. There was also a Harman Collins mag, and some others. This Riley-headed engine runs a later-model 4-cylinder distributor in the stock location (while the top-right picture in the thread runs a Vertex mag in the stock location).

Entirely different head from the one kitted. BUT... that engine DOES show one of the front-driven ignition setups possible. You could put a mag up front on that housing too.

That engine represents a Riley 2-port overhead valve conversion head on the Ford Model-A and B bottom end. The TWO individual cast-alloy valve rocker covers are the immediate identifier. It can be set up several different ways, using an essentially stock ignition system, to a front-driven magneto. There's also a more radical 4-port with the intakes on the other side. Here's a couple of pix. Google image-search "Riley OHV head" for more.

Bingo.

Hey man, I'm an old fart and I think most of those guys are pretty lame too...with their checkbook rods and restos that live in air-conditioned garages and get to the shows in trailers.

...while walking to school and back ten miles in the snow, uphill both ways, barefoot, carrying 50 pounds of books and only a hatchet to fight off the bears. And of course the hatchet was also the only tool they had to build models with too.

Awwww...how cute. A baby Bugatti Atlantic. I got nothin'.

Speaking of gorillas, listen to this set of remarks by Rush Limbaugh. If there was ever any doubt about the man being an imbecile, this should remove it. They pay this ignorant clown at least $40 MILLION a year...and a large portion of the US population believes every word that comes out of his mouth. http://www.rawstory.com/2016/05/confused-rush-limbaugh-thinks-evolution-is-a-hoax-because-cincinnati-gorilla-never-became-human/

No kidding. Most of mine looked more like this. I wouldn't have if I could have.

But it IS molded in only two snap-together pre-decorated parts (white and clear) so you feel the satisfaction of "building something" without having to expend any actual effort, use sharp and dangerous tools, smelly and toxic glue and paint, or have any boring-to-learn skills. It also comes with a free smart-phone virtual-laundry app and a washing-machine-sound ring-tone....plus a downloadable certificate of modeling accomplishment you can print and proudly display. And don't forget to check out the special FB page so you can exchange fun stories and blurry photos of your build with other washing-machine-kit enthusiasts (many of whom, we've found, don't know how to do real laundry) as well as get advice about challenges you may encounter during assembly of the two parts.

Also notice please...this is a "gasser", one of the most famous gassers of all time. See how it doesn't have the nose pointed towards the sky? See how it sits level? Um hmmm.

My guess is that it's a large truck, fenders over the rear wheels.

It's part of the "Jihad Joe" play set.

I missed the "rant about kids today" part of this thread. Please direct me to it. Simple Definition of rant: to talk loudly and in a way that shows anger : to complain in a way that is unreasonable I'm just not seein' it.

I'll betcha they're supposed to be there. (Though I could be wrong...) Why? Because the 'round' sections, like the OP is holding in his fingers, are the runners where the molten plastic is introduced into the die. The actual "gate" is the line along the horizontal round runner section, adjacent to the crossmember. I believe that line is where the part is supposed to be separated from the runner / sprue prior to building. It appears the part was designed this way to maintain the fenders in correct alignment, and provide an easy attachment point to the chassis. Look also at the pins extending downwards from the lower crossmember in the photo. If this were part of the sprue / runner, there would be absolutely no rational reason to have pins there. Machining the die to make these pins would add unnecessary expense...and that's avoided like the plague in injection-molding tool design.

Interesting...

To the best of my knowledge, no states are actually confiscating and destroying pre-emissions vehicles. If they ARE, we really need to stop it. The ridiculous "cash for clunkers" program came the closest (as far as I know) and it was voluntary...a completely misguided and ignorant knee-jerk attempt to inject some life into slow American automobile sales, I'm sure as hell NOT OK with confiscation and destruction of MY PERSONAL PROPERTY just because some power-mad paper shufflers say so...even if it was voted for by a bunch of ignorant sheep. These old vehicles POSE NO THREAT TO ANYONE'S HEALTH or SAFETY, and should be left the hell alone. There is NO logical reason to mess with the freedom to enjoy and occasionally operate old vehicles other than a blatant and pathetic need to CONTROL people far beyond anything that's rational.

OK. Now we know what we're dealing with. Both Jantrix and crazyjim are on the right track. There's only one really clean way to do this, and I'm assuming the piece you've cut loose in the center has the same downward projections that the lower piece in the photo has...right? Both the Evergreen and Plastruct products that these guys mentioned come in various widths and thicknesses of strip and shape stock, as well as sheets. http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/ https://plastruct.com/product-category/strip-and-rod/styrene-strip-stock-rod/ You can get some of this stuff from well-stocked hobby shops or online. Measure the thickness and width of the piece you've damaged, and get some strip stock that's as close to identical as possible. Then measure the exact length between the edges of the fenders still attached together. Cut the strip to length...exactly (cut it a little bit long and file it to exact length). Remove the remains of the piece you damaged, and carefully file the locations on the fenders flat and square where the old piece used to go. Tape the fenders to your bench to keep them level and parallel to each other and very CAREFULLY cement in the new piece you made with liquid cement...not letting it go anywhere but into the joint. It is IMPORTANT to fit this carefully, so you end up with the exact same fender spacing you started with. Let it dry OVERNIGHT. If you fitted it right and let it dry, it should be strong enough for gentle handling...but since these bonds are very small, it's just NOT going to be as strong as it was before. So handle it carefully as you finish building. AND...IF you need the downward projections like are on the lower cross piece in the photo, you can carefully cut them off the old part and transfer them to the new cross piece you just made. You MAY have to space them down just a tad to compensate for the thickness of the cut when you removed them from the old crosspiece. How the thing is supposed to fit on the chassis (or whatever those projections fit to) will determine exactly what you need to do to get it to sit level, like it's supposed to. Just think through what you're trying to accomplish and it shouldn't be too difficult. This is a very good illustration as to why it's really important to be completely familiar with what you're doing before you start cutting anything. It's always much harder to put things back the way they were than it is to take your time and avoid issues like this.

And to further elaborate on "resin cast"...there are complete resin kits also available of some rare and interesting subjects hat the injection-molded-plastic industry couldn't justify expending the $$ necessary to tool for mass production. American Racing Miniatures and Historic Racing Miniatures are two companies that produce complete 1/24 multi-media kits (primarily resin-cast, but including photo-etched and other types of parts as well) of very fine quality. HRM (and others) also produce resin "trans-kits" to convert a styrene model into another version of a similar car not offered in styrene. Resin is a popular medium for rather a lot of European racing (and other) cars in 1/43 scale as well. There are some incredibly detailed cast-metal kits in this scale too.