Ace-Garageguy

Mmmm mmm...pork spleens and stomachs and mechanically separated chicken. Boy oh boy. Makes my mouth water just a thinkin' 'bout it.

You're right. With that door shape, which I had taken to be a modification to an A shell, it couldn't be anything else. The drooping lines just aft of the quarter windows too. Never really looked at Bantams that closely before.

Yup...missed it. The tell is the seam in the roof above the door shut-line. Otherwise, it could easily be a modded A with the visor gone. The gold truck's not an A either. Though the firewall is like an A, and it has a visor, look at the stamped details on the door skin. Compare that to a '30-'31 truck cab. Different.

Pretty cool spring kit. Here's a direct link to the instruction sheet. Wow. I want some. ...Problem with the link. Let me see here... Hmmm. Can't get the right link to copy. Odd. Anyway, click on the link in Joe's post, scroll down the page 'til you see "instructions" and click on that. Opens a page with a blowup of the spring kit. Impressive.

The gold truck. Later cab.

Good to know. $11 seems fine to me for all the work saved.

Yeah, that's what I thought too, but I just decided to go with the flow.

I'm old, and I've screwed up SO many things by getting in a rush that I just don't do it any more. Just about every poor result I've ever had on a model has come about because I've hurried or gone ahead without good preparation, or when I really didn't feel like it, or something similar. This IS a hobby, and if rushing to get something done results in turning out craddy work I'll just have to do over again, what's the point? A large part of the satisfaction I get from doing this stuff is looking back at a finished product...even just a finished PART of a project, and being pleased with the craftsmanship. If I don't get that, rushing to accomplish mediocre work seems like counter-productive stupidity to me.

Funny...I'm starting to be drawn to un-chopped A-bones...I guess because chopped ones are so prevalent.

Beautiful!

Red oxide primers were used extensively for many many years (and still are) on ferrous metal objects because of their corrosion-inhibiting properties. We currently have an original-paint '39 Ford in the shop, and where the paint has been polished through in several areas, the base coat is very obviously red-oxide. As has been suggested here many times, to get an idea of what is correct for a particular model you're working on, research online underside photos of correctly restored or original examples of the make and model in 1:1.

Yeah...except that a "deuce" is only a '32 Ford, and these are '30-'31 model A Fords. (and the red one's a '28-'29)

Was this taken during an eclipse?...both the backside of the moon and the Earth in full sunlight, illumination apparently slightly to the left rear of the viewer, apparent shadow on the surface of the planet slightly to the right...or is the illumination farther to the left, allowing the shadow of the moon to miss the planet? EDIT> Aha. No eclipse. Found a time-lapse video... http://metro.co.uk/2015/08/06/incredible-new-picture-shows-dark-side-of-the-moon-5329923/

...and crickets...

This post has been awarded the ACE-GARAGE OFFICIAL SEAL OF APPROVAL.

Very easy to lower as much as is practical. I took the kit out and had a look, just to make SURE I'm telling you correctly. FRONT: Simply cut the stub axles off of the front A-arms and move them UP as much as you want the car to go DOWN. Glue them back in place, allow to dry thoroughly, and BE SURE TO GET BOTH SIDES EVEN AND SQUARE, REAR: Remove a little material from the airbags. This will allow the rear axle to travel UP into the chassis, bringing the car DOWN. You MAY have to tweek the control arms just a tad. MEASURE CAREFULLY. Before you start to lower it, set it up on its stock suspension. Measure the front and rear ground clearance. Then take the suspension back out. set it up with spacers under it, and the wheels / tires you want to use. When you have exactly the look you want, measure the ground clearance again. The difference between the first measurements and the second ones is EXACTLY how much you need to move the stub-axles or shave the rear airbags.

It's blissfully cool. 76F. First time it's been that cool with the sun up for months. Man, oh man. I still don't have AC, as I haven't got to that in the renovation yet. Cool is good.

If the Foose Caddy actually makes it to Revell's production line, I'm in for a case. As the basis for a '50s GM custom, it's going to be hard to beat. I WANT some.

Good looking concept. I had a couple of those things in the wayback. Fun little cars. The rear quarter, back glass and roofline back there actually look to me more like the gen 1 cars than the gen 2 represented by your kit.

Last time I bought DuPont's chameleon colors for real cars, about 2008 or '9, they were around $400 per quart, or $1600 per gallon. Stuff's expensive.

This quoting mess is entirely out of control. You can't delete a quote once you enter it in a reply box. Lovely. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The quote was supposed to be from Jantrix: "I'd love to know more about this process if anyone is in the know." " Here's a place to start, Rob. The truth is out there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0y_N-IG-23g And to understand what the dots on the truck are for, click this link and scroll down to 3D SCANNING... http://fab.cba.mit.edu/classes/863.12/people/malcolm/week4.html