Ace-Garageguy

Funny...I'm starting to be drawn to un-chopped A-bones...I guess because chopped ones are so prevalent.

Beautiful!

Red oxide primers were used extensively for many many years (and still are) on ferrous metal objects because of their corrosion-inhibiting properties. We currently have an original-paint '39 Ford in the shop, and where the paint has been polished through in several areas, the base coat is very obviously red-oxide. As has been suggested here many times, to get an idea of what is correct for a particular model you're working on, research online underside photos of correctly restored or original examples of the make and model in 1:1.

Yeah...except that a "deuce" is only a '32 Ford, and these are '30-'31 model A Fords. (and the red one's a '28-'29)

Was this taken during an eclipse?...both the backside of the moon and the Earth in full sunlight, illumination apparently slightly to the left rear of the viewer, apparent shadow on the surface of the planet slightly to the right...or is the illumination farther to the left, allowing the shadow of the moon to miss the planet? EDIT> Aha. No eclipse. Found a time-lapse video... http://metro.co.uk/2015/08/06/incredible-new-picture-shows-dark-side-of-the-moon-5329923/

...and crickets...

This post has been awarded the ACE-GARAGE OFFICIAL SEAL OF APPROVAL.

Very easy to lower as much as is practical. I took the kit out and had a look, just to make SURE I'm telling you correctly. FRONT: Simply cut the stub axles off of the front A-arms and move them UP as much as you want the car to go DOWN. Glue them back in place, allow to dry thoroughly, and BE SURE TO GET BOTH SIDES EVEN AND SQUARE, REAR: Remove a little material from the airbags. This will allow the rear axle to travel UP into the chassis, bringing the car DOWN. You MAY have to tweek the control arms just a tad. MEASURE CAREFULLY. Before you start to lower it, set it up on its stock suspension. Measure the front and rear ground clearance. Then take the suspension back out. set it up with spacers under it, and the wheels / tires you want to use. When you have exactly the look you want, measure the ground clearance again. The difference between the first measurements and the second ones is EXACTLY how much you need to move the stub-axles or shave the rear airbags.

It's blissfully cool. 76F. First time it's been that cool with the sun up for months. Man, oh man. I still don't have AC, as I haven't got to that in the renovation yet. Cool is good.

If the Foose Caddy actually makes it to Revell's production line, I'm in for a case. As the basis for a '50s GM custom, it's going to be hard to beat. I WANT some.

Good looking concept. I had a couple of those things in the wayback. Fun little cars. The rear quarter, back glass and roofline back there actually look to me more like the gen 1 cars than the gen 2 represented by your kit.

Last time I bought DuPont's chameleon colors for real cars, about 2008 or '9, they were around $400 per quart, or $1600 per gallon. Stuff's expensive.

This quoting mess is entirely out of control. You can't delete a quote once you enter it in a reply box. Lovely. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The quote was supposed to be from Jantrix: "I'd love to know more about this process if anyone is in the know." " Here's a place to start, Rob. The truth is out there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0y_N-IG-23g And to understand what the dots on the truck are for, click this link and scroll down to 3D SCANNING... http://fab.cba.mit.edu/classes/863.12/people/malcolm/week4.html

All the 5-window Revell coupes came with the Hemi, far as I know. Get this box art...you can't go wrong.(FYI: they did something odd with the exhaust port spacing. The ports should be evenly spaced.)

Bummer. Another icon gone. http://customrodder.forumactif.org/t1518-bo-huff-a-documentary-of-his-life-custom-cars-musicgirls

Seriously guys...you can get 17 clowns in that thing.

i recognize that one.

It takes 10 to 30 seconds to post a photo. Doesn't seem hard after you do it a few times, and I've been doing it just like that since 2012.

That's the way I look at it, anyway.

Some days I really wish that 40 years ago, I'd got myself a gubmint job where I did basically nuthin', and then voted myself a way to continue getting paid for doing absolutely nuthin' when I retired. Sour grapes? Damm right.

Another one of those fine situations where what's legal has nothing whatsoever to do with what's morally right and ethical. Kill it if you're going to eat it, and NEED to eat it. Otherwise, get up close and take a photo.

A fitting end for the great white hunter... (who collects trophies for "sport" as opposed to hunting game for food)

You can scale from the pix I put up. Measure the headlight diameter in the photos. They're standard 7" sealed beams. On my monitor, the upper one is .481". The lower one is .787". Divide 7" by .481". That will give you about 14.5, making the upper photo about 1/14 scale. Divide 7" by .787". That will give you about 8.89, making the lower photo about 1/9 scale. Now measure the distance from the center of the headlights to the outer edges of the fenders. The upper is .485". multiply by 14, to get approximately 6.79" in full scale. The lower is 1.61". Multiply by 9 to get approximately 14.49" in full scale. That tells you the Big Job fender is roughly 7" wider than the F-100. 7" in 1/25 scale is around 7mm, or about 1/4 inch. I'm sure this is a close as Revell gets most things these days. Of course, if you think carefully about the parallax effect of the slightly different angles the photos are taken from, and you hold your math to tighter tolerances than I just did, you can get more accurate results.

My own procrastination. Though I did a fair bot of necessary work around the place over the weekend, I put off doing my shop paperwork until now. Just like I did with homework when I was a kid. Now I get to stay up half the night getting it finished...just like when I was a kid.

Even though the temps have been in the low 90s, the humidity is right now a season-low of 37%. Almost as nice here as it is out West. Man, I miss Arizona...especially those gorgeous sunsets like Ed posted. We get one like that here maybe once a year...if ever.