Ace-Garageguy

Plenty of reviews out there. In general they're positive, citing significant improvements over Win8. http://www.techradar.com/us/reviews/pc-mac/software/operating-systems/windows-10-1267364/review

Seems like it might be easier to cut down and backdate the AMT '27 touring car body.

That's very...special.

My bad. I have the stocker on the shelves...thought I had a custom too, and had compared. The custom version box art does indeed appear to be somewhat lowered. Still, to lower either of them more is straightforward.

Excellent point.

When these work, they're great, but they can be finicky. If it's brand new, and the liquid cement you have is in a container that's deeper than the needle, don't cover the end of the tube. Just let capillary action fill it to the level of the fluid in the cement container. It may take a few minutes. Some of these came with a little plastic squeeze-bottle with a fatter needle that will fit in the open end of the glass tube. Squeeze the air out of the bottle, put the tip of the needle in the tube (with the smaller needle of the tube immersed in your liquid cement) and release the pressure on the squeeze bottle. As it re-inflates, it should draw cement up into the tube. The tips can get clogged very easily, as dissolved plastic may wick up into the needle as you use it. To keep the needle clear, you really need to keep the needle immersed in cement all the time. That also poses a spill hazard, and allows your cement to evaporate quickly. I made a special top for my cement bottle that seals against the glass tube when not in use, and put the whole thing in a larger container to avoid knocking it over. If the needle DOES become clogged, it's usually close to the tip. Scoring it 1/8 or 1/4 inch back from the tip with a hard, sharp blade and snapping it off clean is the only way I've ever found to clear a needle. If you fill the glass tube too high, it can also tend to drip cement on places you don't want it. Experimentation is key. As I said, when these work properly, they're great...BUT, because they can be a real PITA, I've pretty well phased mine out with very fine insulin syringes. A friend of mine is diabetic, so I get them free, only used once.

Hard to believe, but that first thing is actually (or was, anyway) real. Here's another couple of spiffy ones...

Rob, as you say, it's just a different mindset and probably has a lot to do with what you've been exposed to during your life. Railroad modelers have been building exquisite brass locomotives and rolling stock since the early days of the hobby. I first encountered these when I was a small boy, and was simply awestruck by the craftsmanship, which can be almost unbelievable. Many RR brass models get painted and used, but there's another segment of the hobby that keeps them in brass to show off the work. These may be scratch-built by individuals, or series-produced, usually in the far east. Vintage Japanese and Korean brass RR models can be breathtaking. I would suspect Pete's work shown above is intended to be left in metal, to show off his craftsmanship...quite understandable.

Exactly. Left-click the IMG box. It will 'flash" momentarily yellow and say "copied". Then it returns to normal. Go back to your MCM thread, put your cursor where you want the photo to appear and do ctrl-v, as Jim said. A code string appears in the thread. When you enter "submit reply", the photo appears in the thread.

Photobucket-stored photos work here for me exactly the same way they've worked since 2012 when I joined. Firefox back then, Chrome now. Copying pix from online sources also works the same way, for me. There have always been some web images that won't copy directly here for one reason or another. To get them here, just save the image you want in your own "my pictures" or whatever you call it in your computer, then put the image in Photobucket (or other host), and re-copy it here.

The big ol' "Count Trossi" Merc is a good looking car... ...but that horrible thing up top in the OP looks like a reincarnated burro. Definitely on my top-ten list of uugly cars.

No it's not, but it's a very straightforward procedure to lower it.

There are many 2-part, catalyzed polyester-filler ("bondo") products made for real cars that will work perfectly for your application. This one is about the smallest amount that's commercially available, found in most auto-parts stores. 1/8 to 1/2 inch fills can be made without worrying about shrinkage, because the stuff cures through chemically, not by evaporation like the one-part fillers.

Very nice. Love these things.

Good looking project. Seems like you have the photo-posting gremlins worked out too.

Photobucket photo postings work the "correct" way they've worked since 2012 when I joined up here.

For Mr. Welda and others... There are several ways but this one always works. You'll have to have p-bucket AND the MCM forum thread you want to put the photo in open in two browser windows simultaneously. 1) Bring up p-bucket and open the photo you want to load into your thread on the MCM forum. 2) On the right side there's a menu called "share links". Left-click on the "IMG" one. It will momentarily turn yellow, to let you know it's been copied. (Sometimes depending on your browser, who's been diddling with the p-bucket functionality, or the phase of the moon, you won't get the yellow flash. In that case you MAY have to right-click on the "IMG" address and copy it). 3) Go back to your thread page. Position the cursor where you want the photo to appear, and press "Ctrl-v" ("paste"). The photo address will come up in the thread window. 4) When you hit "post", the photo will appear. OR.... If you're looking at thumbnails in a particular album, hover your cursor over the photo you want to put on MCM. 3 little white bars come up in the lower left corner of the thumbnail. Hover over the bars and another menu opens above them in the thumb. Left-click "share links" A big white box will drop down with another menu on the right. Left-click the "IMG" choice, which will flash yellow as above. Same steps 3 and 4 as described above.

Sorry to hear about your recent trials, Harry. The infection thing must really be bothersome. Hope it's finally in the past. Antibiotic-resistant infections are becoming a serious problem due to the over and misguided use of antibiotics, in everything from food animals to hand soap. Read some of the literature on the subject written by informed medicos. The "cloud" concept has had me uncomfortable since its inception. I don't like giving up so much control over my data and programs to an 'elsewhere' host. I know it's supposed to be the latest, greatest, hip, hot, happening thing and I'm surely once again seen as a fossilized Luddite for feeling the way I do, but your recent experience is exactly the sort of thing I was thinking would be prevalent.

I'll keep Win7 until they pry it from my cold dead fingers...

Photobucket works for me in Chrome just like it always did (which is the same as it worked in Firefox). Upper photo direct from the "library" thumbnail (IMG option), lower photo opened and "IMG" option selected.

It's almost so obviously real...but I'm going with model.

"...was reading a book while driving in snow late at night!" I don't care what anyone says; that's impressive multitasking.

Two reasons for me to use metal for models. One, the strength is vastly superior to styrene. I used to build brass tubular slot-car chassis many (many many) years ago, and you just couldn't do it with any other material...though I did experiment with a real monocoque styrene chassis with promising results. Machining round parts...wheels, tanks, pulleys, etc. is a natural in aluminum, as noted. Right color. Polish it, it looks just like real metal, 'cause it is. Guys who work in larger scales have found that styrene won't support itself indefinitely if used for tube-chassis work, and again, brass is the material of choice (aluminum doesn't solder well, in general). Reason two, as stated above, if real metal tubing is bent well and used for exhaust parts, the thinness of the exposed ends is simply much more realistic than what's usually achieved with styrene, solder, or other materials.

Wow. Everything about it is beautifully done. Love the articulated rear suspension too.

Stunningly beautiful workmanship. Inspirational, as always.