Ace-Garageguy

Yes. It's shown in black on the blue-highlighted cooling system drawing above. In the ad photo, it looks like the T-connector to the water pump and the head is missing. The Allison service manual calls it out as the "spark plug cooling manifold" and it's clearly shown here. I haven't seen one of these engines in the flesh for quite a few years, and I've forgotten exactly how it's plumbed into the water pump. There are variations, but in general, the colored drawings (also from the factory manual) should get everything going in the right directions. The engine in the ad photo also has a plate bolted over the exhaust ports for shipping. You can clearly see where the outer spark plug wiring harness has plug leads coming out to the plugs. They also show very clearly in the photo above.

Looking good. That Ice Blue pearl oughtta look great on a chopped '48. Love your accent color too. Somehow I've neglected this kit. Gots to get one now.

Looks good. I love those snap-kits for the basis of lots of different styles of '33-'34 Ford. Haven't seen one done like this before. Good idea.

Just counted. Close to 80, in various stages from gathering parts, notes, drawings, research pix etc., to a lot that are 1/2 finished, a few that are 3/4 finished, and one on the bench I'm trying to get done before I get into something else.

That's a natural assumption to make about an airplane engine. There were a FEW V-type air-cooled aircraft engines, but for the most part, all the air-cooled engines are either radials like this ...or flat engines like this (very similar in layout to old VW, Porsche and Corvair engines)

Here's a copy of an old ad for surplus military engines after WW II.

It was always water-cooled, even in aircraft. An engine is designed to be water-cooled from the start, and stays that way. Here's how it's plumbed in a P-40 Warhawk. The AMT Allison engine kit includes the entire ignition system, including the shrouds the plug wires run in (parts 36, 37, 38, 39) which attach to the distributor case, part 23. There should be wires running from the magneto, parts 21-22, to the distributor case. There would be a smallish ground wire running from the mag to a kill switch on your dashboard. These engines had electric starters, parts 15 and 16, and you should be able to find pix online of the wiring. It would be a 24-volt unit, so two 12 volt car batteries would be appropriate. For the AMT kit, the fuel pump is part 13. One fuel line would most likely run from your tank to one side of the pump, and another line up to the carb body part 20. I'm not familiar with this particular carb, so some online image searches should help you there. Do a google image search for "Allison 1710" or "Allison 1710 plumbing", etc. for whatever else you need to know. There are many slightly different versions of this engine, and you might like to do image searches for it installed in pulling tractors to get more ideas on plumbing as well. Good luck.

I like it. Looks like it otta be a '60s album cover.

True, and true.

Recycling at its finest.

You kinda tend to see exposed fasteners on cars that actually ARE fast, and that don't care too much about desperately trying to LOOK fast...

That would explain why references I've read about the kit describe it as a NOT-accurate representation of the TV car.

OK, here's something a contemporary hot-rodder could put together himself from an old '90s 240SX shell and junkyard goodies, plus some effort to develop the skills to make the body panels, flares and pull the whole concept together. This thing just screams "HOT ROD" to me. I'd sure as hell drive it. Definitely in the original hot-rod spirit of tossing the bits you don't need (like bumpers) and getting more of the bits that DO something...at the same time ditching the old-beater appearance and making the looks reflect the performance. Yes, I KNOW tuners already build 240s, and I KNOW this is a body kit, but the point IS...somebody COULD build something like this without buying the kit. It COULD be built cheap (as cheaply as a fast 50's hot rod was back in the '50s, adjusted for inflation). And a lot of it could be built from junk. It has camber that looks like it actually works correctly to make the car corner better, and isn't an ignorant fashion-statement. It looks fast. I like it. A lot.

LOVE IT !!

Actually, Allison engines were built as both RH and LH rotation, depending on the intended aircraft installation, and they were designed to be assembled to run either way (with only minor parts differences). The engines in a P-38 rotate in opposite directions, for example, and an installation in a "pusher" configuration (prop in rear) usually requires reverse-rotation. Here's two more street-driven examples...

Even on 1:1 cars, I'll often use a line of masking tape to protect a raised edge or sharp corner. If you tape really really carefully on a model, you can get right up close to something like a chrome spear. It also works well for me to fold the sandpaper to a sharp crease. Makes the edge stiffer, and allows you to get close in, again, to the raised detail...and see where you're sanding. You have to keep making a new "edge" though, because it will clog fairly quickly.

The cat would like to know the answer to that, too. Engine's out, because whoever built it put a high-lift cam in the thing, with stiff valve springs. Took the teeth right off the stock aluminum timing gear. Have to split the case to do timing gears, went for straight-cut steel (makes a nice whine too), and one thing led to another...as it usually does. Deep sump, trick pickup and windage tray, re-balanced the bottom end, big two-stage oil pump, front-mounted Harrison cooler behind the grille on the nose (which is fake on the Beck, so I had to make a new repro alloy cooler-grille too), and that led to opening up the fake brake cooling duct grilles. NOS Marchal H4 headlights, which prompted a swap for a late-model alternator 'cause I have some NOS Cibie driving lights too...on and on and on. Adjustable torsion-bar ride-height mod on the front end...and a removable Dzus-fastened panel in the trunk under the tank to get to it (I'm planning to autocross it, so adjustable suspension...)...and more and more and more. I've stopped adding to the list, and have about completed undoing all of the chimp-work that is typical on kit-cars built by amateurs (as this one was way before me). So...to answer your question, for the year or so that it was a sunny-day-daily-driver, it was great fun. Annoying at times because of things that had been done wrong previously, but she just got better and better as I fixed them one at a time. 7000RPM redline with a counterweighted crank in a Bug engine, and 4-into one headers, with no guts in a glasspack. Man, I love that sound. Stops WAY better than you'd think for old Bug drums, but it only weighs 1400 or so pounds. No heat, no top, wipers are a joke, and if you get caught in the rain you A... go faster so it blows over your head B... stop under a bridge or C... get very wet. Out-corners lotsa much newer stuff, even on little 165/15 radials. Slides happily too, and the handling is basically neutral and predictable...to a point. It has a swing-axle rear end, and I hadn't tied it down to limit camber yet. Top end seemed to be around 120, but I don't trust the speedo installation. Passing everything on I-75 quite briskly though. Two 2 barrel DeLorto downdrafts, ported heads, big (for a Bug motor) valves. Instant throttle response and pretty respectable acceleration. Road testers have compared a real 550 with a Beck built similarly to mine (smallish engine, cast-iron Bug brakes, Bug 4-speed) and it turns in very close to the same numbers as the real one. Little car really reminds you you're alive.

Like I said above, self-preservation just isn't that high on my list of priorities. So far, I haven't been t-boned...knock wood. I really PAY ATTENTION when I'm driving tiny, vulnerable cars. I once saw a big, heavy '70s Caddy in the rear-view mirror coming up FAST when I was stopped at a light in the old 7. What do you do? The Caddy stopped in time...just. I'm glad. I've enjoyed some more moments of living since then, but everybody gots to go sometime. I'd rather die having fun than live in a cotton-lined box safe from any danger...or intensity. I wouldn't take the door beams out of a car for a client. But for me, it's just lotsa pounds of useless weight. Long as the removal work is clean and not cutting-torch-slag or jagged/sharp edges from the cutoff wheel, I'm happy. I probably WILL put a diagonally-braced roll bar behind the seats though. To save me from my own possible stupidity, you know? The Spyder really needs one too. I've looked at coil-overs to let me get wider, taller rims under the Toyota for bigger brakes, but haven't done the research to find if there's any junkyard bolt-on brakes (or close) that will work. There's usually something that comes close. For instance, a Porsche 914 trick uses BMW 320 vented rotors and calipers in front. World of difference...and the stock 914 brakes work pretty well in a 1600 pound car.

I'm odd, maybe. I've never gone around thinking in terms of protecting my own ass much. Really. I have a Beck 550 Spyder replica. Some fool t-bones me, I'm toast, period. My favorite ride of all time was my Lotus 7 Series 2, just about identical to this one. Even less protection than the Spyder.

As far as I'm aware, there just aren't any laws specifically pertaining to removing or altering crash stuff...yet. If it's not against the law, it has to be legal, right? That's my carefully considered opinion, anyway. The only laws on the Ga. books that mention altering older vehicles pertain specifically to emissions systems. Even there, the law is vague, as the 25-year cutoff simply exempts vehicles from having to pass the emissions test. It doesn't specifically say you can trash it, but not having to pass the test (both visual appears-as-delivered and sniffer) provided the only cost-effective solution to keeping my '89 GMC truck running after a massive EEM meltdown...which was to replace the computer-controlled ignition-timing system with a mid-'70s style HEI distributor, and a 2-bbl carb. Works great.

It's warmer...and Ms. Postperson just dropped off the carb kit for the Rochester on the '63 Olds!

There have been several Allison-powered land-vehicles other than pulling-tractors. The engine was also popular for unlimited-class hydroplane race-boats, before turbines. Arfons built a couple of "Green Monster" drag cars running Allisons, and the Jim Lyttle-built "Big Al" series included a 4-engined Fiat and an Isetta. Big Al III was this COE tractor. Then there was the '57 Plymouth "Nightmare", built by E J Potter (who also built Nightmare II, an Allison-powered Dart station wagon). And right here at the forum is an Allison-powered Deora-based build by Psychographic... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/?showtopic=57976&page=2

One of my "hope to get to it this summer" project cars is an '86 MR2. I think I can get around 500 pounds out of it by ditching the heavy bumper reinforcements, door beams, factory seats (I have some OEM Porsche 914 buckets that weigh nothing) etc. Also already have a 1990 Taurus SHO engine/gearbox that fits very nicely in the engine bay. We shall see.

The Rustoleum stuff worked GREAT on my old 1:1 '89 beater GMC pickup.

Bernard makes an excellent point about the LEGALITY of modifying later-model vehicles (as well as the complexity). In Georgia currently, the emissions-systems are fair game for removal or modification once the car has reached 25-year-old "antique" status, but as far as I know, there is as yet no legislation covering safety-related systems like air-bags, heavy crash bumpers and the like. This means it's still possible, as I write this, to build the philosophical equivalent of a 1950's hot rod. Drag a cheap old hulk home, strip all the useless weight out of it, fit a hotter junkyard-sourced engine and gearbox, better brakes, and go hunting for high-dollar late-model expensive "fast" cars. I don't see many any kids doing it. CORRECTION: I've seen ONE locally. An old 240Z with a Toyota 2JZ, Weber carbs, big brakes, coil-overs and about 4" of ground clearance. The real deal, built with mostly junkyard parts.