Ace-Garageguy

And hey...who needs a Harley to pick up chicks??

So you want subtlety, eh?

It can be done. Just takes a little doing. You're very correct about the Revell tracknose being less-than-ideally proportioned, but with a little slice-n-dice, it should look really good. I've done or am in progress with several nose-jobs for old Fords, the tracknose versions being based on the vintage Monogram Midget part. I've already done molds for the '34 Ford... One in the works for the '32... An entire front end for the '28-'29 with a Kurtis nose (wide enough to run an Ardun or Mopar hemi with full hood sides)... A Miller nose... And shortly, a tracknose as in Keyser's pix for the '28-'29 bodies.

I use high-build rattlecan primers from SEM (a "professional" product from the body shop...huge can, dries through pretty quick, and REALLY builds), Duplicolor (takes longer to flash and dry through, with medium build) and Plasticoat (seems to me to dry through faster than the Duplicolor, builds well, sometimes hard to find). You really only want to use any of these on heavy custom bodywork, where you want to create a block-sandable surface and fill coarse sanding scratches. They will obliterate fine details like chrome and scripts quickly.

I can deal with the 2 seconds or so it takes to upload one photo. May be an issue with a slow internet connection, or a slower computer.

Yes sir. I forgot to mention it. The nose, hood (bonnet) top and two side panels, plus the hard tonneau and the helmet fairing will all open and be removable, and the decklid will be hinged. What's shown for all of those parts are "plugs" that will have molds pulled from them, and .020"-thick fiberglass copies made for the final model.

Ohhh...that poor jacked-up car. What's it got, a gasser straight-axle? Doesn't really go with the hubcaps. Must be a hyper-cool mixed-genre thing I'm too old to understand.

Great paint, very clean foil work, appropriate colors...and all on one of my favorite kits of one of my favorite cars. Love it.

There was a big ol' crack in the RH side of the body, and it kept opening up while working on the thing, even after repeated gluing. Very small-area butt joint, zero strength. No possible way it would stay stable during bodywork. Made a patch panel to go inside the lower body. I want this thing to look good inside too, and the visible top seam of the patch will simply represent a stitched-in patch on a real body shell...one that had been pulled, rusted off along the bottom on one side, out of the junkyard. This has to be fitted carefully to keep the close fit with the bellypan. The bellypan rear-section got reinforced inside to tie all the parts together. Yes, it looks grotty inside, but this is only the plug for a fiberglass copy that will be on the final model. Moving along nicely on the shaping. Made a new windscreen mockup to fit the revised cockpit opening, and re-contoured the helmet fairing to work with the revised shape. Also started scribing in the panel lines for the nose and hood. Tail view shows the fairing, raised to clear the louvers, and acceptable fit of the deck. I went too fast doing the rough cuts on the decklid side extensions and cost myself more time filling some deep scratches as a result. That's it for today. Thanks for looking in.

I use photobucket. Never ever have to bother re-sizing anything. All automatic.

How many angels can dance on top of a 1:25 scale bumper guard that may or may not exist?

OK boys. This is a SERIOUSLY quick hillclimb / slalom car. It's setup to go over a measured course AS QUICKLY AS POSSIBLE. That's called "racing"...as opposed to "posing"...which is pretending you have a seriously quick car, but you're too stupid to actually know the difference, and involves sliding around making a lot of smoke and noise, slowly, while you destroy tires. It's not some tarded-out super-cambered fashion-BS tires-on-the-wrong-rims, I-wanna-look-just-like-the-other-idiots-that-don't-understand-suspension that doesn't do anything except look stupid, and label its owner as a moron. Notice the camber on this car. It's enough to do the job. No more. It would eat the lunch of ANY of these idiot way-cambered piles. And in case anybody STILL doesn't get it...remember this car? Driven by one of the world-masters of car control, a guy who actually KNOWS HOW TIRES AND SUSPENSION WORK, and proves it every time. Notice the camber.

Here's two real cars with the old, rear-distributor Hemi. Both cars are '28-'29 bodies on '32 rails, which this new kit gives you. If the old Hemi will fit, the later-model 440 and even the 426 Hemi should shoehorn in there.

The too-square front fender corners probably have more to do with the design of the tooling being able to release the molded part than anything else. There's plenty of plastic there to file them rounder to make the necessary correction, and these kits are so great otherwise, I find this minor issue very easy to forgive.

Like it a lot, really love that engine. I'm starting to pay a lot more attention to the Asian hot-rods. This would be a fine car to get stuck driving every day.

Nice. Good to see one of these built stock.

I'm confused. The OP is asking about the availability of a specific truck in kit form. Please help me understand why this rates as "off topic".

My personal favorite of that era 6X6 truck...I think this was built from a 1/35 Italeri kit.

Yes. It's shown in black on the blue-highlighted cooling system drawing above. In the ad photo, it looks like the T-connector to the water pump and the head is missing. The Allison service manual calls it out as the "spark plug cooling manifold" and it's clearly shown here. I haven't seen one of these engines in the flesh for quite a few years, and I've forgotten exactly how it's plumbed into the water pump. There are variations, but in general, the colored drawings (also from the factory manual) should get everything going in the right directions. The engine in the ad photo also has a plate bolted over the exhaust ports for shipping. You can clearly see where the outer spark plug wiring harness has plug leads coming out to the plugs. They also show very clearly in the photo above.

Looking good. That Ice Blue pearl oughtta look great on a chopped '48. Love your accent color too. Somehow I've neglected this kit. Gots to get one now.

Looks good. I love those snap-kits for the basis of lots of different styles of '33-'34 Ford. Haven't seen one done like this before. Good idea.

Just counted. Close to 80, in various stages from gathering parts, notes, drawings, research pix etc., to a lot that are 1/2 finished, a few that are 3/4 finished, and one on the bench I'm trying to get done before I get into something else.

That's a natural assumption to make about an airplane engine. There were a FEW V-type air-cooled aircraft engines, but for the most part, all the air-cooled engines are either radials like this ...or flat engines like this (very similar in layout to old VW, Porsche and Corvair engines)

Here's a copy of an old ad for surplus military engines after WW II.

It was always water-cooled, even in aircraft. An engine is designed to be water-cooled from the start, and stays that way. Here's how it's plumbed in a P-40 Warhawk. The AMT Allison engine kit includes the entire ignition system, including the shrouds the plug wires run in (parts 36, 37, 38, 39) which attach to the distributor case, part 23. There should be wires running from the magneto, parts 21-22, to the distributor case. There would be a smallish ground wire running from the mag to a kill switch on your dashboard. These engines had electric starters, parts 15 and 16, and you should be able to find pix online of the wiring. It would be a 24-volt unit, so two 12 volt car batteries would be appropriate. For the AMT kit, the fuel pump is part 13. One fuel line would most likely run from your tank to one side of the pump, and another line up to the carb body part 20. I'm not familiar with this particular carb, so some online image searches should help you there. Do a google image search for "Allison 1710" or "Allison 1710 plumbing", etc. for whatever else you need to know. There are many slightly different versions of this engine, and you might like to do image searches for it installed in pulling tractors to get more ideas on plumbing as well. Good luck.