Ace-Garageguy

You go to the hardware store and get simple fittings, bushings or whatever adapters may be necessary. Everything "works" with everything with a little practical effort.

May I point out again, for the dozenth or so time, that a simple photovoltaic solar array on the roof of a house can split wastewater and rainwater into hydrogen and oxygen, using only 100% free sunlight for its energy input. A household-sized unit can easily produce enough hydrogen fuel daily to power an "average" car on the "average" daily commute. Yes, the array costs money, but the prices are dropping rapidly for this technology, and the payback is much quicker than anyone seems to realize...and with widespread implementation it could become very cost-effective. Compressed natural gas is also an ideal motor vehicle fuel, Which Art mentioned in passing. I was HEAVILY involved with the development of the tech back in the mid 1990s. Unfortunately, the prevailing "wisdom" in the country preferred to take the cheap expedient of generating electricity by burning natural gas rather than take a little more effort and clean up the coal-fired plants...which is entirely possible using currently available tech too. And now that gasoline is relatively cheap at the pump again, nobody gives a rat's rear about planning and developing rational alternatives for when the tap finally runs dry. WHICH IT WILL.

Sounds like the way I live every day...

Somehow, I think he already does (judging from the possessive arm leaning on the Merc, as proud mommy and daddy look on obviously thinking "he's SO like us!!!" )

I kinda have to agree. Guy I used to do some work for occasionally had one...and actually put a marble floor in the thing. I think the fuel mileage went from about 6 to 4.

Interesting blend of bits, for sure. Looks good though.

I kinda like the little van. Clever blend of retro US style and Asian efficient use of space.

And there's the rip-off "Furry Road"...

And since nobody has mentioned this, I will. I learned this doing high-end paint jobs ($10,000 and up) on real cars. Put your water trap as far from the compressor and as close to your airbrush as possible. Compressing air heats it considerably. Hot air holds more moisture as vapor than cooler air. If you put your water trap farther from the compressor, the air in the lines will cool, allowing more moisture to condense, making it easier for the water trap to do its job. Putting a water trap directly on the compressor outlet is pointless. Water vapor in the hot air will pass right through the trap, and on really bad days, I've seen it condense and form water droplets on the surface of the car along with the paint being sprayed. This, of course, ruins the work. For painting 1:1 cars and aircraft, I now pass my air through a modified AC condenser to cool it, followed by my oil and water traps. A pressure regulator at the gun or airbrush is ideal.

One very good thing about the design and execution of the flares on this model is that they enhance the original design, look like they belong there, and don't scream for attention. Raising the wheel arches on this car to allow for a lower stance is a natural, and you've done a fine job on the proportions and contours. FYI, this is similar to Chip Foose's design philosophy. He likes to do mods so that you see there's something different about his cars, but you don't quite know what...only that they look somehow...better. You've hit that golden spot with this model. Still instantly recognizable as what it is, but just a whole lot better...without any tacky overblown garbage.

If I remember correctly, HOK basecoats can be reduced with lacquer thinner and topcoated with lacquer clear, or reduced with acrylic urethane reducer, and topcoated with urethane clear. I don't have any idea what the "airbrush-ready" pre-reduced colors in the little bottles are cut (reduced, or "thinned") with. You might want to check into that, as HOK recommends that you don't use a lacquer clear over bases reduced with urethane reducers and vice versa.

Maybe...but all my friends tell me "once you go Mac, you'll never go back".

Which exact product? I see they have several in their line.

Even Microsoft acknowledges IE sucks. Regarding their new browser (2015 release) "Spartan" it is said by industry insiders "that Microsoft's new browser has similar performance to Google Chrome 41 and Mozilla Firefox 37". Hmmm. What's that tell ya??

IE is...it's...it's garbage; use a good one, you'll wonder how you ever got along without it...kinda like when you made the switch from dial-up to high-speed internet...if you ever did. Believe it or not, there are actually a very few sites remaining that can only be viewed correctly using IE. This isn't one of them.

Yes, excellent advice from Chris (Toner283). The baggie does indeed keep the stuff from drying out, and agitating it keeps fresh material in contact with the parts. The method also works well for stripping extremely stubborn paint from old parts too.

So do these...

Very nice work, especially the guts swap. Everything looks like it belongs...which is how it oughta look.

Looks better than a Nissan Juke, anyway...

This has been answered multiple times on this forum. I use EasyOff oven cleaner in the yellow can (TOXIC, use gloves and eye protection !!!), then thoroughly scrub with a toothbrush, Comet and hot water. Scotch Brite pads can damage fine details...if you care.

Pretty good stuff there, Greg. Especially useful if someone wants to model a particular car or era, but can't quite recall the car's name or builder.

Well then...

One such material is "Milliput", sold in hobby and craft stores and online. More info here: http://www.milliput.com/

If you look closely at the bottom car in post #24, you'll see she's sittin' on '32 Ford frame rails...(could very well be a P-shop job using the upper image in post #25, eh?)