Ace-Garageguy

Amen. And now that I know, I just don't care. Amen again.

Great looking model. Love your color choice. The tinted headlights are a nice touch too.

Surely one of the best wartime aviation stories around. Very nice work on this restoration project, too.

I like whatcha got so far. My kinda car.

French cars are really different from just about anything else on the planet.

This is really impressive. Love the scale engineering, heavier chassis, widened cab, casting your own parts, etc. I've seen your other work (the '38 COE is probably my favorite) and it's always an inspiration.

I'd missed this one 'til now. Stance, wheels / tires, interior all perfect. Love that grimy Plymouth shop manual on the back seat, too. Perfect too. And your use of construction paper for the hood insulation...genius.

Here's mine. A snow strainer.

Snow day ! Yes, it's less than an inch of ice and snow, but this is the South. Everyone smart just stayed home and I'm not required to go in. Me? I've been driving in this stuff all my life, but venturing out in it around here, you might as well paint targets on your doors. Hundreds will for sure sled merrily through red lights today while they wonder why the 4WD, traction-control and ABS don't seem to be working. There have been sirens all around all morning as the first-responders rescue the inevitable physics-doesn't-apply-to-me yups from their overturned 4WD Lexi. But my vehicle is probably pretty safe parked in the driveway.

Really really really like this.

Very interesting question to me, being an ex-smoker. So I did some looking on the interthing. The answer is: yes.

On the days when the expendable-income pocket is full (not so much lately...just got paid for the first time since Thanksgiving) I'll spend what I need to to get what I want. If I'm broke, I won't.

Looks great. Good colors for it, and I really like the chrome steels and whitewalls. The subtle flames are a nice touch too, and the way the blue in them picks up the seat belt color. Very nice.

Special parking spots for special people...

All the specs and a tutorial are on their website. Melting point of Composimold is listed as 130 deg F. Says don't exceed 200 deg F. 130 deg F is very hot tap water. If you're making a mold from a modified "styrene" model car part, the usual quoted permanent-damage point for styrene is said to be around 212 deg F. This means you SHOULD be able to make a mold from a styrene kit part with no damage to the part. If you make a very thick part using a 2-part material, there's a chance it could exotherm, which would melt the mold, of course, if you got hotter than 130 deg F. Your results may differ.

Location, location, location...

And hey...who needs a Harley to pick up chicks??

So you want subtlety, eh?

It can be done. Just takes a little doing. You're very correct about the Revell tracknose being less-than-ideally proportioned, but with a little slice-n-dice, it should look really good. I've done or am in progress with several nose-jobs for old Fords, the tracknose versions being based on the vintage Monogram Midget part. I've already done molds for the '34 Ford... One in the works for the '32... An entire front end for the '28-'29 with a Kurtis nose (wide enough to run an Ardun or Mopar hemi with full hood sides)... A Miller nose... And shortly, a tracknose as in Keyser's pix for the '28-'29 bodies.

I use high-build rattlecan primers from SEM (a "professional" product from the body shop...huge can, dries through pretty quick, and REALLY builds), Duplicolor (takes longer to flash and dry through, with medium build) and Plasticoat (seems to me to dry through faster than the Duplicolor, builds well, sometimes hard to find). You really only want to use any of these on heavy custom bodywork, where you want to create a block-sandable surface and fill coarse sanding scratches. They will obliterate fine details like chrome and scripts quickly.

I can deal with the 2 seconds or so it takes to upload one photo. May be an issue with a slow internet connection, or a slower computer.

Yes sir. I forgot to mention it. The nose, hood (bonnet) top and two side panels, plus the hard tonneau and the helmet fairing will all open and be removable, and the decklid will be hinged. What's shown for all of those parts are "plugs" that will have molds pulled from them, and .020"-thick fiberglass copies made for the final model.

Ohhh...that poor jacked-up car. What's it got, a gasser straight-axle? Doesn't really go with the hubcaps. Must be a hyper-cool mixed-genre thing I'm too old to understand.

Great paint, very clean foil work, appropriate colors...and all on one of my favorite kits of one of my favorite cars. Love it.