Ace-Garageguy

Nice job on two of my favorite kits of old. And as Mark said, the Willys blower is just about perfect for color the way I remember them on the 1:1 cars, before everything was getting polished. How'd ya do it ??

Absolutely. Whereas Shelby's continuation cars used old un-assigned but valid serial #s, they were built from the Kirkham repros, and were actually much more symmetrical than the first "real" hand-built series.. As far as I'm aware, the run of Jags will be the first of its kind done by the actual factory that built the originals. Think of GM doing a series of 6 last-of-the-line '63 Corvette split-window coupes. Probably not gonna happen.

Wow. Looks like just about perfect foil work too. Impressive.

Yes but...there's a pretty good argument against that, or at least for hot-rod versions of pre-war cars, going on over at Dennis Lacy's fine '34 Ford build in under-glass. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=92516 His '34 model is getting a higher number of positive comments than most of the later stuff. It can't ALL be decrepit old men liking the thing.

Yes but...I like all the "retro" styled cars above, but the Jag isn't "retro". Retro is "influenced by past work, etc". The Jag is a continuation of a 1963 vehicle, as close as they can get it. At least that's my current understanding.

Always one of my favorite beauties...

And one just for Harry...

Prepping your model correctly to get good paint adhesion is critical, as is using a good quality paint, and allowing your lighter color to dry thoroughly.,,no matter what brand and type of paint you choose to use. To guarantee good adhesion, I scrub my bare plastic with Comet or Soft Scrub and hot water, with a toothbrush. This works better than sanding and doesn't obliterate fine details like sanding can. I'll leave specific recommendations as to masking for other folks...some use Tamiya tape, some like Scotch or 3M fine-line, and some prefer BMF to get good crisp lines. WHATEVER YOU DO...TEST FIRST. Develop a foolproof system to get clean lines without pulling up your base paint BEFORE YOU PAINT YOUR EXPENSIVE MODEL.

Story here... https://autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motoramic/jaguar-reveals-the--new--lighweight-e-type--a-time-machine-to-1963-142328243.html Pix here... https://autos.yahoo.com/photos/jaguar-s-lightweight-e-type-resurrected-slideshow/

A final run of 6 of these, actually from the Jaguar factory. Man oh man.

2 old-race-car reference books.

I'm in for 2 or 3. Multiple style beds would be nice, as separate releases, maybe?

It's interesting to me that, on another thread discussing which models Revell might think about bringing out next, when the subject of an accurate '34 Ford was brought up, several guys were of the opinion that its appeal would be limited, and that these "old cars" were somehow past-it, and only of interest to "graybeards". What makes THAT interesting is the very strong positive response this model of Dennis' has on the forum. Obviously, well-built models of hot-rod icons still have quite a broad appeal. Somehow, I thought so.

"One Hour Photo" ?

Bernard, that really looks terrific. I recall seeing fiberglass dune-buggies and speedboats with huge flake buried under topcoats of clear gelcoat (in the mold, shot inside-out), and period customs and race cars with monster flake as well. It took a special gun to shoot the flake, it was so incredibly huge, and you have captured the look perfectly in scale. Thanks for the how-to.

Yup. And like Pete, I have a ton of 1:1 tools and materials that are constantly useful in model-building.

Ah yes, my continuing downfall. And often, seeing a kit I don't have inspires a NEW idea that in turn will require parts from even more kits I don't already have.

Here's another "candy" thread. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=91151&hl=%2Bcandy+%2Bcolors#entry1213480 Also, shooting color, especially candies, over bare plastic that hasn't been thoroughly scuffed is guaranteed to have color receding from panel edges. If you study the models presented on this forum, you'll see it's a pretty common problem, about as frequent as grainy orange-peel. Be SURE to scuff your bare plastic before applying ANYTHING. I use the Comet or Soft Scrub and a toothbrush method, with HOT water. This insures that ALL the surface will be adequately scuffed...even down in the nooks and crannies adjacent to details. It also insures that all the tooling lubricants will be removed. These lubricants, transferred to the plastic during the molding process, can also create edge-receding and fisheye problems. I DON'T recommend scuffing with sandpaper or ScotchBrite, which CAN SOFTEN or even OBLITERATE DETAILS, and it rarely really gets into all the crevices.

Language was more "simple" too. Great project and research photos. I'm really looking forward to the build, like so many others are.

Which is why my post (#2) just says "never mind", after I noticed, and looked at, the link.

'57 Ford stock colors...

Great story, Danno. Cool to have a "police special" as daily transport. My own father had a '49 Ford business coupe. I was like you as a little kid; I knew all the cars on the road. Interesting.

I saw a Pagani Zonda in Buckhead the other day. Maseratis and Rollers are pretty commonplace, as are Ferraris and Lambos on that side of town, but the Zonda really stands out. I didn't know there were any in this country, and I have no idea what particular version it was, but it was a Zonda, for sure. There's no mistaking this tail...

Hmmmm....a skilled builder well known on this forum (MrObsessive), got outstanding results from the Monogram Corvette... ...and even the snapper version of the big Chevy appears to build up beautifully, with some effort...

...there MUST be an app for that...