Ace-Garageguy

Wouldn't it be nice if partisanism could be left behind, and the people who "represent" us could actually focus on issues...using logic, applied intelligence, common sense, and real (un-spun) factual data (as opposed to pandering shamelessly to the ignorant masses of uninformed but opinionated "voters" they rely on to keep their noses at the trough) ? Nope, never happen.

With the Federal minimum being $7.25/hr, it is taking about 3 or more hours work to buy the $25-range kits I see in most of the full-retail stores. Hmmmmm. Not all that great a deal put that way, is it?? "Adjusted-for-inflation" isn't always a very good indicator of actual buying power.

Oh man, I love it. The real truth, especially the " the "handicap" is simply an inability to put down the fork..." bit. So many times I've seen hugely overweight folks (which IS A CHOICE, people), parked sideways in the handicapped slot, and then the guy with no legs comes in and has no place to park.

Fine old truck, nice to see it brought back. I think there may be a little mistake in the article, saying the team had over "200" hours in the resto. Make that more like 2000. 200 hours is ONE guy working FIVE WEEKS. Nope. Yes, the pickups are all stupidly huge these days, for no good reason (no functional reason, anyway).

Well, it is a huge Mustang, so that's a match. Cool kit. I didn't know it existed.

Thank you all for the kind compliments. I removed most of the chrome for a "shaved" look, but the window surrounds and the beltline molding will stay. They'll have to be foiled, and it will be my first attempt.

Thanks for the encouragement. The scribing on the roof was very frustrating, as I'd get it looking nice and sharp, and it would flake off just when I thought I had it beat. Having to sand the whole mess off and start fresh with some other filler made me tend to put the model away for a while, between attempts. None of the one-part putties would hold the sharp detail and stay stuck to the body, nor would any of the 2-part polyesters. Once it crumbled or flaked, there wasn't any point putting more on and trying again. It became obvious each material I tried had limitations, so it just had to be removed and filled with something tougher until I found something that worked.

Haven't been taught percents? Seriously? No wonder GM's engineers are seeming to be having so much trouble designing cars that work. You say "sophomore in analysis". Analysis of what, if I may ask ? Can I get one in full-scale? Forget the wagon.

That Fotki page seems to be down at the moment.

Yes, I still use it for very minor fills, but I do a lot of heavy mods and bodywork, and the air-dry stuff just won't get it. That's why I'm asking for pix of "years" old models that have no visible shrinkage. I've bought heavily-customized gluebombs where the old filler has shrunk and warped and cracked and made an awful mess, and even on some of my 2-year old builds, I can see primer shrinking into sand-scratches under the right light.

I had to trudge 50 miles each way back and forth to school every day over a mountain 8,000 feet high in snow that was 100 feet deep carrying 200 perfect model kits that only cost a nickel each when I was only 5 years old...

Several people have said they've had acceptable results with the one-part putties. Any pictures?

Then of course, there have been a few genuine Panteras with Hemis...

Blame "new math"

Are you becoming a liberal, Harry?

Well, maybe you can.....http://contest.techbriefs.com/2010/entries/transportation/871

And I was only trying to be helpful, as I have absolutely no idea what's available in Norway, but the OP said they did have 3M. Not all 3M owned products are in all markets, and to the best of my knowledge, the Bondo "Professional" glazing putty is about the only product on the market (here) that comes in modeler-friendly packaging sizes. It's also about the finest-grained stuff I've seen so far, and it works exceptionally well even over primer...which I tend to cringe from using most polyester 2-part products (on 1:1 cars).

How 'bout an Aston Martin DB5 shooting brake, shaken, not stirred? Or mayhaps an old Jag? Hard to beat for class.

3M makes several 2-part polyester finishing-glaze products similar to the Bondo product I suggested. The problem is that the size of the containers from 3M will give you more filler that you'll likely be able to use before it goes bad...unless you do a LOT of model building. Your local full-scale car body-shop supply should be able to recommend something to you, maybe in a smaller package. 3M also makes a 1-part glazing putty, but all it is is thick lacquer primer, basically the same as the model-specific putties, and it will have the same problems they do.

THANK YOU SKIP !!! I'm really fired up to build one of these now, having all those beautiful pix to work from. Man, that's some car.

To prove beyond any possible doubt that they're rude morons, with zero respect for the environment or anyone else's right to breathe a little clean air, and that they have way more money than brains.

Great concept, exceptionally clean workmanship. This is one of those hard lessons about mocking up everything with the parts you're going to use (like wheels / tires) BEFORE you do all that beautiful bodywork. Don't feel too bad though...well-known 1:1 car builders who should really know better, and where there's a lot of money involved in re-dos, occasionally make similar mistakes. Beautiful bodywork and paint.

Great project, looking really good. I'll be following along...