Ace-Garageguy

Yup. This is somewhat simplified, but it's the general drift. What makes a magneto special is that it has an internal "generator", and supplies its own current without the need for a battery. The internal "generator" is also often capable of delivering more primary current than a conventional battery-generator system, so in part because of that, the resultant spark is hotter. On many older mags, the "coil" is internal, and works like a conventional coil, more or less. Mags also have internal points, or electronic analogs of points that control when current is cut to the primary coil windings. When the mag points open (determined by a small cam, as in a conventional point-type distributor) a relatively small current through the primary windings of the coil is cut off. This makes a magnetic field that has been established (while the points were closed) around the primary windings collapse, and as the collapsing magnetic flux-lines move through the secondary windings, they induce a higher-voltage current that is directed out to the plugs by a rotor and cap that function just like a familiar distributor cap. That hot, fat current is strong enough to jump the gap at the plug, making a spark. Remember: It's the collapsing magnetic field in both the "coil" windings in a magneto and in a regular coil that produces the high voltage, as the moving magnetic flux lines of the collapsing field move across the secondary windings. Remember science class? A wire moving through a magnetic field will produce a flow of electricity through it (through the wire). This is how ALL electricity is generated, from car generators and alternators, up to big power plants that light your home. Moving the magnetic field relative to the wire, whether the wire moves, or the field moves, has the same effect. Mags are more complicated than just a combination of a generator and an ignition system, but the analogy holds true for simplified explanation purposes. External coils can be added that step up the available voltage more than the space-limited internal coils might be able to do, and for competition cars, having an external coil makes replacement quicker than it might be with an all-encompassing unit. A significant difference between internal-coil mags and external-coil mags is that the external-coil unit has a cap with an extra terminal that connects the coil output to the "distributor" cap. Internal-coil mags lack the center terminal on the cap because the connection is, of course, internal. Here's a schematic of an external-coil mag, with optional coil setups. Magnetos can also be built where the mag generates the primary current and controls the timing of the ignition event, but a capacitive-discharge unit creates the spark, instead of the more familiar coil. Many variations and combinations of the various functions are possible. The whole mess may also be controlled electronically, with the mag still supplying the primary current to run it all, and supplying possibly a speed-reference for the control unit, or the timing may be varied by a small computer that gets its engine-speed-signal from a crankshaft sensor.

I liked the little PT from day one. They're fun to drive, handle well, and are practical for families, or people who do things. The car represents Chrysler's dare-to-be-different period, and doesn't look like anything else, really. They can be a pain to work on, but that's another topic entirely. I especially liked the convertible, about the only modern-day "phaeton" style vehicle you're likely to come across.

You make a good point about being grateful for another day. I tend to carp and complain about rampant stupidity and things going wrong, but I ALSO try to find, every day, some specific thing to be thankful for...like the feel of the wind on my face, plenty of hot water, the color of the sky at dusk, the purr of a happy cat...all things that truly make each new day a joy for at least a moment. I think those of us lucky enough to have been born in the USA should take the time to be thankful for that too. This country, in spite of its problems, is still one of the absolute best places to be. You are more free here to succeed and prosper (if you work hard, and there's simply more "stuff" here in general) than just about anyplace else on Earth. Most of us take that for granted as well. There are people everywhere suffering, starving, and fearing for their lives on a daily basis...even in this country...and those of us who have the time and resources to participate in a hobby should stop for a minute and consider all of the people in the world who couldn't afford even the price of one model car.

Yes, you are correct. Sand, polish and last, wax. Wax is entirely optional. Some builders like to wax, some don't. And yes, the 3M product you show there should work fine. It's a slightly newer product line than the one I use, but it's basically the same thing.

That's beautiful, especially considering it's 1/43. Clean, clean, clean.

Thanks for the link. I thought I'd make it this year, but I didn't start working again soon enough to afford the time.

This style Vertex magneto, extremely popular in the '60s is the one I'm most familiar with on cars. This and many aircraft mags have internal coils. This is the total extent of the wiring, other than the secondary wires out to the spark plugs.

Thanks for the crank info Jeff. Great to find guys who know their 1:1 stuff, and where to go to look it up.

Yup, it's always kinda surprised me nobody ever offered a styrene '26-'27 Ford roadster body, considering how popular they were as track and lakes cars, as well as hot-rods.

I have consistent great results with 3M Perfect-It Machine Polish #06064, rubbed by hand. This is MUCH finer than rubbing compound. Their Ultrafine Machine Polish #06068 is also excellent, and may work better for you on dark colors, though it cuts slower because it's finer. I also typically sand up to 12,000 grit before polishing. I recommend these very fine sanding pads from Micro-Mesh. This is what you can expect after just a light polish. The car still needs to be final-sanded and re-polished in this shot.

Older magnetos, at least all the ones I've ever worked on in 1:1 cars, don't use a coil. They generate their hot spark internally and have no need for an external coil. BUT, here's a good video on wiring a funny / top fuel style setup for a more recent car. It shows the amplifier boxes and coils. Good luck.

I've never seen one of these actually finished before, and to get such nice results from the restoration of a gluebomb is really impressive. Nice work. You've inspired me to look at building one of the ones I have on the shelf.

Cool!! Sounds like some really good cheap entertainment to me. Even better than reality-TV or wrestling.

Since the beginning of recorded history, and not likely to change much in the foreseeable future.

In ANY "composite" material, fiberglass or "resin" or "bondo", air bubbles often tend to be undercut, meaning they're bigger under the surface than the hole that shows on top of it. Because the diameter of the bubble is larger under the surface, simply screeding in your filler of choice won't fill the entire void, leaving the likelihood for show-through when the part is primered and painted. This happens frequently on real full-scale parts and bodywork, as well as on resin models. If this is the case, it's necessary to take the tip of an X-acto and open-up the bubble on the surface, larger than its diameter under the surface. Try to make an even-tapered radius so that your filler will be able to completely fill the void without trapping any air in it. I'll leave suggestions for what specific material to use for correcting "resin" voids to the guys who do a lot of work with the stuff. The under-surface bubble problem is pretty much universal, however. All these holes need to be opened-up and radiused BEFORE they're filled, for top-notch results.

As long as you keep your trousers up, I think you should be OK. Oh, and never say "would you like a piece of candy, little boy (or girl, as the case may be) ?".

:lol: Maybe, but you can bet he won't know how to drive a stick, change a tire, charge a battery, run a chainsaw, change oil or do laundry.

Duh...I tink I stayed at the moriot wunst.

Fine proportions and flow on that top chop job. Those big sloping sail panels take some work and vision to get right. Great looking images.

If the CAD work still exists for the Revellogram '34 snapper (which can be the basis for a very nice model...with a lot of work), it should be workable as a starting point for a new '34 kit (depending on the program it was done with and how it's archived) without having to begin fresh "from a clean sheet of paper". Many older CAD files can be imported into newer platforms that are MUCH more user-friendly to make modifications in. A lot of time, expense and energy is needlessly expended in MANY industries re-designing everything, reinventing the wheel so to speak, when much work can easily be recycled. Professional design-team managers are making the startling (!!) realization that they can look back through the design library, and may very well find much head-start work has already been done...on earlier projects. The major proportion problem with the Revellogram snapper (besides the chopped top being a problem if one wants to build stock) is the too-short hood. I've measured real cars several times to verify this, and it could be corrected when the hood is re-designed to be molded separately from the body shell. Granted there's a lot more to making a complete kit than a body that looks right, but there's already a lot of good stuff in the snapper kit to start with. If the information can still be accessed and manipulated electronically, the project is already well on its way. Revell already also has tooling for flathead V8 engines and gearboxes that are appropriate for the '33-'34 car, and again, if the CAD work is still available for the '40 Ford, the axles and suspension for a '34 can be developed from it.

I agree, one of the truly definitive cars of the real 911 series. Most of these I've seen don't seem to sit right, but it looks like you have the stance spot-on. Nice project.

I really like it. Looks like a cross of a computer mouse and a Fiat 500. Abarth built hot-rod Porsches as well as Fiats, so just cram a 356 engine in it somehow and you're good to go.

I like it. It's much more colorful than I generally go for, but it works. Nice job.