Ace-Garageguy

Every time I find myself to be on the verge of having fun, I jab myself in the eye with a stick.

I love old altereds and careful, historically and technically accurate builds. Nice going. Turbo Nova is exactly right about how wishbones function, and Greg's pix and links are very helpful to anyone building something like this, as always. This is a GREAT forum !!

Have you tried the "toughened" Loctite CA? Between that and drilling / pinning small parts, I've had very good results so far.

Just for the record, I was wrong. It IS a wedge. Here are the "before" pix of the entire car. http://www.moparsbymosher.com/finished/65plymouths/moshers65/moshers65.html

So can you run a large-journal 327 crank in a 350, 4-bolt-main block ? That should give you a 4-bolt 327. They both have 4" bores, the bore spacing is the same, and the heads will all bolt on. Will the crank work ?

Yeah, but you know the media. It's a lot more "shocking !!!" (OMG OMG !!!) to say it "hit a tree at 150" than to say it maybe was capable of 150 but wasn't going anywhere near that fast when it plowed through some limbs and bushes.

QUOTE: I am not a pervert, spying on people Story here: http://www.suasnews.com/2013/09/24964/i-am-not-a-pervert-spying-on-people/

Stealing a car with the intent to "permanently deprive" the owner of the vehicle is usually a felony, no matter if state lines are not crossed. It's a big deal. Muy bad. In other circumstances, it can also be a lesser charge like "joyriding", and may depend on the jurisdiction, perpetrator's age, prior record, value of the vehicle, etc.

And there's this entire thread...http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=44500

And there's the MPC version... And a Testors metal kit...

My cat's STILL alive, and her back legs are miraculously working again.

Yes, a real, well set-up Hemi car like this is capable of sub-10 second 1/4 mile times (they broke the 10-second thing in 1965) with a trap speed of 130+ mph. That's just what it could accelerate to in 1/4 mile...

Very good looking car. Sorry about the donk thing. I just couldn't resist.

My guess is that it was set up as a super-stock nostalgia drag car, and wasn't intended to be run on the street. Of course, nobody told the moron who stole and destroyed it.

And yes, that's probably a little optimistic too...

Looks like drag-slicks and narrow radials (if they're V-rated, they're good to 149mph) in front. I don't see the problem... Of course, it wouldn't corner very well...

Great stuff! I'm always interested in ANYTHING that actually gets raced, and I had no idea this style of car even existed. Thanks for the heads-up.

There's "walked away", and then there's "survived". My guess is that whatever is left looks like bloody jelly and will be on full life support forever. Before... after...

If you're gonna put a 327 in your Camaro, you might also consider using the famous "double hump" heads. They're still available in junkyards, and they work very well. Many years ago, I put a 327 (365-horse based engine, but with headers and a little more cam) with the double humps in a Triumph Stag. Pretty fast car. Here's a nice article on compare / contrast of the best of the 2-humps. http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/ctrp_0912_chevrolet_double_hump_cylinder_heads/viewall.html

Well, if you only search within the topic, you won't get all that many hits. Some user involvement IS required to perform a search correctly using the available tools, and to sort the MOST relevant hits, just like in ANY search. And if the words "Buick" or "nailhead" aren't included in a post, the post won't show up at all in a search for either word. I do a large amount of research online, and I'm not grasping the "problem".

The answers above pretty much cover it, and your realization that the numbers don't lie is spot on. A lot of muscle-car or vintage-car or hot-rod owners have very little knowledge of the science and physics of engines, but they have a lot of enthusiasm for somewhat misguided and incomplete popular "knowledge". Here's a copy of the real deal from http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=115/category_id=13/mode=prod/prd115.htm Is a 327 Chevy a better performance engine than a 350? This is a big misconception. First of all, let me repeat the old saying "there's no replacement for displacement". In other words, if a basic performance engine makes say, 1 HP per cubic inch, then it's pretty obvious that a 350, with 23 more cubic inches is inherently going to make 23 more HP than it's smaller cousin, the 327. Both the 327 and 350 have 4" bores. The 327 has a small 3.250" stroke and the 350 has a longer 3.480" stroke. With that, you take into consideration engine physics, and consider that the extra 23 cubic inches of the 350 is all via the crankshaft stroke, and you automatically gain more torque on a logarithmic scale than if it were 23 cubic inches by bore size alone. Ok then, now you're probably saying, "well, some of the 327's in the early 60's were rated at 365HP carbureted, and 375HP with the Rochester Fuel Injection system, and the 350's didn't make that much power at all“. OK, let's think about that for a minute; The 327 was a popular Corvette engine and the 350 wasn't really available until 1967, (and only in some models of cars in 67), and they didn't start getting popular until 1968. When the 350's did finally come-out in mass numbers, most were in mild cars such as Grama's big old Caprice or Dad's truck, and they didn't really start getting their "performance" reputation until the 1970 and 1971 LT-1 350's came-out in the Z/28's and Corvette's, so it "appeared" that the 327's were more powerful engines than the 350's. The bottom line here is simple, no matter what you do to a 327, if you do the same thing to a 350, it WILL make more horsepower and torque than a 327, period. The same thing goes with ANY engine when comparing cubic inches and power, especially when you are talking about making more torque with longer strokes. Could the 327 rev higher than the 350? Physically, with the shorter stroke and less reciprocating mass than a 350, in theory, YES they could, BUT because of the heads, cams and valve train limitations, in most cases, reving higher meant absolutely nothing as far as making any power up at those RPM's. See our Tech Tip titled "How high will one of your Bad Ass engines rev?" and that'll explain that subject better.

Model railroaders sometimes use a grass-cloth that has...artificial grass on it. It's usually paper with milled sawdust dyed green. Try this google image search and see if anything looks like what you have in mind. https://www.google.com/search?q=model+railroad+grass+cloth&es_sm=122&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=2ePWU-eNAqnz8AGamYHoAQ&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg&biw=1600&bih=799#imgdii=_ RR modelers also use the "grass" loose, available in bags, and glue it to the layout. Frankly, it usually looks a lot more like Astroturf than grass.

Here's an excerpt from a fascinating look at the Chrysler Corp. Lynch Road assembly plant in 1970. http://www.deadnutson.com/building_a_mopar.html According to this, every car was shot in dark gray primer, regardless of paint color. I do NOT recall the primer color of any of my old Mopars, and it may have varied to red-oxide, as Tim suggests, from plant to plant. Now it is time to prime the body. All cars, regardless of body color, use a dark grey primer. Workers in the prime booth spray the door openings, and under/inside the hood/deck areas. Dummy, recycled 1/4" wire latches keep the doors, hood, and deck lid shut. Robot guns on curved tracks spray the sides, roof, hood, and deck lid outer body, their spraying actions programmed according to the car's body style. The insides of the car, and the underside receive only overspray. Booth overspray is collected by water that flows downward all along the sides of the spray booth and over to its center, where it catches the paint particles in the downdraft through the open steel gridwork floor. The "Upper Door Frame" (UDF) color is sprayed on any inside metal of the body shell that will not be covered by upholstery or metal finish panels. This colored paint is sprayed on before the primer overspray has dried. Cars remain in the primer baking oven for approximately twenty-five minutes at 350-375 degrees. This high heat is intended also to cure the weld primers and vinyl plastisol sealers, which were applied with a gun to panel joints prior to being welded together. The primer is wet-sanded at Lynch Road, using power disc hand-sanders, which have built-in water sprayers. Only the outside of the body is sanded. Following a wipe-off of primer residue, the body is cleaned with naphtha, then wiped with an alcohol-and-water solution. The UDF color is masked off by hand, with tape and masking paper. Since our sample SuperBird is basically a 1970 Road Runner, its tail lamp bezels have been attached to the tail light panel with their purposely-long studs, while being spaced from the panel with one-inch sleeves. This allows the bezels to be painted with the car body, and allows painting of the tail-light panel contact areas, preventing rust. After the paint is baked, the sleeves are removed, and the bezels are permanently attached. It is essential to note that a primary goal of assembly line painting of all cars is to have every part of the car that will be color-coated be permanently attached to the body before it enters the paint booth. This prevents the inevitable paint scratching of subsequent painted-parts assembly. Also, parts that are not to be color-coated are not installed on the car prior to entering the paint booth, thus avoiding masking off. The front valance panels present a problem unique to SuperBirds. (They are the body panels that attach to the fenders forward of the wheels, and are later bolted to the nose cone supports [bumper brackets]). The valance panels can not be attached to the fender during painting because they would hang down at their underbelly end and get caught all along the assembly line. Yet, the valances are in an area of high rust potential, and must be color-coated.