Ace-Garageguy

And thank you, sir. Your part of the deal arrived today and I'm as pleased as I can be. To the rest of you guys...PowerPlant is 100%. It doesn't get any better.

I've been getting bogus PayPal emails for a few years, but this is the first one formatted as a receipt. The previous ones have usually been something to the effect of "We've noticed suspicious activity and have shut down your account. Click here to log in to check it..." or some such. Either way, it's a phishing attempt to capture your password at login.

First thing I did prior to posting here.

Yup...and the reason I kept the Neon and PT cruiser after the prices bottomed out. They'll be looking pretty good in not too much longer. Funny...last time gas prices peaked I had people offering me crazy money for my '93 Geo Metro convertible...which I've also kept.

Just got one...an email purporting to be a receipt for a $100 transaction I didn't make, with a notice at the bottom that says "Iecceiejhecceiejh381288160fecceiejhecceiejh381288160 yecceiejhecceiejh381288160oecceiejhecceiejhuecceiejhecceiejh decceiejhecceiejhiecceiejhecceiejhdecceiejhecceiejhnecceiejhecceiejh'tecceiejhecceiejh mecceiejhecceiejhaecceiejhecceiejhkecceiejhecceiejheecceiejhecceiejh tecceiejhecceiejhhecceiejhecceiejhiecceiejhecceiejhsecceiejhecceiejh oecceiejhecceiejhrecceiejhecceiejhdecceiejhecceiejheecceiejhecceiejhrecceiejhecceiejh o381288160ecceiejhecceiejhrecceiejhecceiejh381288160 iecceiejhecceiejhfecceiejhecceiejh yecceiejhecceiejhoecceiejhecceiejhuecceiejhecceiejh becceiejhecceiejheecceiejhecceiejhlecceiejhecceiejhiecceiejhecceiejheecceiejhecceiejhvecceiejhecceiejh381288160e381288160ecceiejhecceiejh aecceiejhecceiejhnecceiejhecceiejh uecceiejhecceiejhnecceiejhecceiejhaecceiejhecceiejhuecceiejhecceiejhtecceiejhecceiejhhecceiejhecceiejhoecceiejhecceiejhrecceiejhecceiejhiecceiejhecceiejhzecceiejhecceiejheecceiejhecceiejhdecceiejhecceiejh pecceiejhecceiejheecceiejhecceiejhrecceiejhecceiejhsecceiejhecceiejhoecceiejhecceiejhnecceiejhecceiejh iecceiejhecceiejhsecceiejhecceiejh aecceiejhecceiejhtecceiejhecceiejhtecceiejhecceiejheecceiejhecceiejhmecceiejhecceiejhpecceiejhecceiejhtecceiejhecceiejhiecceiejhecceiejhnecceiejhecceiejhgecceiejhecceiejh tecceiejhecceiejhoecceiejhecceiejh aecceiejhecceiejhcecceiejhecceiejhcecceiejhecceiejheecceiejhecceiejhsecceiejhecceiejhsecceiejhecceiejh yecceiejhecceiejhoecceiejhecceiejhuecceiejhecceiejhrecceiejhecceiejh aecceiejhecceiejhcecceiejhecceiejhcecceiejhecceiejhoecceiejhecceiejhuecceiejhecceiejhnecceiejhecceiejhtecceiejhecceiejh, pecceiejhecceiejhlecceiejhecceiejheecceiejhecceiejhaecceiejhecceiejhsecceiejhecceiejheecceiejhecceiejh cecceiejhecceiejhlecceiejhecceiejhiecceiejhecceiejhcecceiejhecceiejhkecceiejhecceiejh tecceiejhecceiejhhecceiejhecceiejheecceiejhecceiejh becceiejhecceiejhuecceiejhecceiejhtecceiejhecceiejhtecceiejhecceiejhoecceiejhecceiejhnecceiejhecceiejh becceiejhecceiejheecceiejhecceiejhlecceiejhecceiejhoecceiejhecceiejhwecceiejhecceiejh fecceiejhecceiejhoecceiejhecceiejhrecceiejhecceiejh cecceiejhecceiejhaecceiejhecceiejhnecceiejhecceiejhcecceiejhecceiejheecceiejhecceiejhlecceiejhecceiejh yecceiejhecceiejhoecceiejhecceiejhuecceiejhecceiejhrecceiejhecceiejh oecceiejhecceiejhrecceiejhecceiejhdecceiejhecceiejheecceiejhecceiejhrecceiejhecceiejh." The "button" takes you to a fake PayPal site and steals your password when you log in. Watch your backsides, fellas.

Just pretend that competent, emotionally stable adults are running everything. Nothing to see here. Move along.

Or you can just learn to solder and make non-sagging straight front tubular axles from brass. I-beam axles are a little harder, but entirely possible too.

See post immediately above. ^^^

Here's part one: And part 2 (as far as I got):

Man, that looks great. I'd be more than happy to have built it.

Sorry for your pain. My intent posting was simply to impart information, as I became aware of the 3G shutdown when one of my phone providers notified me I'd get a free 4G upgrade if I jumped through a buncha hoops and said my prayers. Then, being the kind of fella who's interested in reality, I did a little research into what else was shutting down that connected through 3G networks, and thought I'd share what I found in the spirit of community...as a lot of people seem to be completely, blissfully unaware of the issue. But anybody who has a problem understanding the meaning of my words or the referenced article...I have a thing about correcting misinterpretations of English when they occur in threads I've started. And anybody who wants to make this into a flame war between the tech-dependent and the geezers...have at it...but it wasn't my intent.

The word "may" is contextual as it's used here. What it means in this case is that particular cars WILL be affected in particular ways, and some will not. Hence: "your car MAY be affected"...so people need to figure out if they will or will not be affected by referring to the attached list for openers, and preferably checking with the car dealer directly. The list attached to the article spells out briefly what's what in particular, what the time limits are (cars that update their software via 3G MAY already be SOL, as AT&T shut down 3G on February 22...but if a particular car is on another network, it's not dead yet...so if you don't know what network a particular vehicle uses, it MAY be affected).

Oh so true. But interestingly, not a single one of my vehicles will be affected any way, shape or form.

Guess you didn't actually read the article. In addition to the systems you mention, quoting again: "systems that download navigation updates, or even remotely start the car may use 3G." "Your car will certainly continue to be drivable, but you may lose some safety and convenience features if your car connects with 3G."

Thing is, the SLR cameras the NASCAR images were undoubtedly made with function very differently from the much earlier cameras the slanted-at-speed images were made with. Here's what makes the leaning "oval" tire effect (SOURCE: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/old-photos-why-do-cars-look-like-they-are-leaning-forward-at-speed.208476/ ) 1) "...you could do that by having a shutter which works like a window shade with a slit in it, that moves vertically as the photo is taken. Like a Speed Graphic camera, for example.the bottom of the picture is taken first, then as the slit moves upward the rest of the picture is taken. So the bottom shows where the car was at the beginning of the shot, the top shows where it was at the end of the shot, and it moved forward during that time." 2) "I'm thinking it's due to a vertical curtain shutter. Basically it's a horizontal slot in a plate that slides vertically past the lens to expose the film. If it moves from top to bottom, it'll 'scan' the car starting at the street and moving up the car as it drops. The latent image ends up inverted on the film in the camera. If the shutter travels slowly enough, the car's motion is registered a little further along as the light exposes the film." 3) "Squirrel (first post) and ShortBus are exactly correct. I tried doing this with an old Speed Graphic press camera with a polaroid back, and it worked exactly as advertised. Put the camera on a tripod so the background is dead still, and shoot at the exact moment that the car is in the frame (yes, it takes some practice). Don't pan, as that will give you an upright car and a leaning background.I used Polaroid B/W film and a very slow shutter speed with a small aperture (don't remember exact numbers, as this was about 30 years ago). "

I know that some can't find their way from to the mall and back without talking GPS-satnav telling them every turn to make, and couldn't drive a manual gearbox if their lives depended on it...and I don't respect that.

My family and 10,000 friends will be so envious when they see my selfies with the post in the background plastered all over Faceborg and Insta-inanity and Twits-r-us.

Hmmmmm.....seems like I saw a thread on here a while back about tech-gadget-laden cars not being all that great over the long haul. I wonder where that was...

Ewe have a lot to overcome...

Or the remote emergency toilet-flush feature that's there in case your phone flush-app subscription charge doesn't go through because your wife maxed out the card tipping the pool boy.

Finally finished hammering through my cheap 3G cell provider's idiot upgrade maze (one that piggybacks service on a major network that's shutting down 3G) to get my free 4G mobile to stay connected. The phone in question is only used for emergency voice calls like summoning wreckers or 911 or finding out my old friends are in the hospital. I'll spare y'all the details, but the glitchy "customer service" stole many hours from the end of my life with unresponsive web pages, pages locking up, runaround "call this number 'cause we can't handle it from here", subsequent dropped calls, dropped callbacks, NO callbacks, and assorted annoyances stemming from techiedwerb incompetence on a truly grand scale. But my new-oh-so-mo'-better device is finally on its way. Be still my heart.

"Connected car features could be the big loss: systems that notify emergency services of crashes, contact roadside assistance, download navigation updates, or even remotely start the car may use 3G. And while the 3G shutdown mostly affects older smartphones, it can affect relatively new cars. Some automakers were using 3G systems as recently as the 2021 model year. These newer vehicles often have 4G radios, which just need a software update to work. Some connected car tech may already use newer 4G or 5G networks, or even access online features using a connected smartphone. But what exactly is affected will depend on your car's make, model, and year — if you aren't sure whether your car's features rely on 3G, you'll need to contact the manufacturer. Your car will certainly continue to be drivable, but you may lose some safety and convenience features if your car connects with 3G. (But) cars, in particular, are a conundrum, with different automakers taking wildly different approaches to how to keep cars connected. Your car may just need a software update, it may need a physical hardware upgrade to connect with new networks, it may need a third-party device to provide the same features that used to be built in, certain features may just not work, or everything may be just fine without any changes. The cost associated with upgrading varies: it may be free, it may cost hundreds of dollars, or it may require an ongoing subscription fee. Consumer Reports has a good list of affected cars and the manufacturers' solutions, but if your vehicle requires service, you'll need to contact your dealer." SOURCE (and more info on other potentially affected systems): https://www.techlicious.com/blog/3g-cellular-shutdown-att-t-mobile-verizon/

Yeah, this stuff drives me nuts. Then some little techie dwerbtard will explain how much more "convenient" it is to do it that way. Really, dwerb? I guess it was pretty hard to look at a printed price on a menu. BUT WAIT...doing it the techiedwerp way let's 'em change prices day to day depending on "market conditions" and "supply-chain issues" and whatever other excuses they can come up with...without having to commit to a printed price on a menu. NOW I get it.

Having been a semi-pro photog for a brief time, and an amateur for decades, I know a little bit about this. It's a particular type of distortion introduced by specifics of lens design. For way more info than you probably want, read these: https://www.imaginated.com/photography/photography-glossary/what-is-lens-distortion/ https://photographylife.com/what-is-distortion

You obviously understand the concept. Core shift means pretty much the same thing, as the "cores" in a sand-cast operation are almost always keyed to the outer molds to maintain alignment of cavities and material thickness, just as in any molding operation...be it pot-metal, cast iron or steel, zinc alloy, aluminum, magnesium, bronze, plastic (either thermoplastic or thermoset), open or closed molds for composite materials, etc. If you're not in or close to the business, you're not expected to have all the terminology. EDIT: The "keys" between typical sand-casting molds are the little fingerlike projections on either side of the actual mold cavities and inserts, and are identical in function to what you'd find in injection-molding dies.