Ace-Garageguy

Entire media empires, not to mention iconic news publishers that used to be staffed by top-line knowledgeable journalists too. Yup. Gotcha.

There is actually an inverse term to the Dunning-Kruger effect, called "impostor syndrome". It occurs when actual experts in a field doubt their own knowledge, and feel as though they're pretending to know more than they do. There is also the tendency among people of higher cognitive ability to realize that for as much as they may know, there's a WHOLE LOT MORE that they don't know. This is a healthy way to be, often comes after a lifetime's experience, and tends to make even acknowledged "experts" double-fact-check what they say prior to saying it. Every day, I interact with people who know things I don't, or who know more than I do (from whom I learn a great deal), and a lot more people who know very little (and think they know everything about everything).

You need to stop coating them with walnut grease.

Most impressive piece of work. Mo' debinately.

True. Which of course you can't do with rattlecan lacquers like Testors and Duplicolor. In that case, when one coat blushes, wait for the solvents to flash off, and then just spray another coat as usual. This next coat (and subsequent coats) will most likely blush too, but after the paint is dry and hard, the blushing will almost always polish off the surface. If your metallic blushes before you clear it, you can just usually clear right over the blushing and it will magically migrate to the surface of the last coat. NOTE: I say USUALLY because SOME basecoats, if they blush, clearing over them just traps discoloration under the clear. This is mostly an effect of uneven metallic particle distribution and "laydown", which can also be caused by excessive humidity in the air, or uneven substrate temperature. The only way to know for sure is to test the specific materials you're having trouble with BEFORE you paint a model you care about.

Another one that got by me completely. Never saw or even heard of it in passing previously.

It's a surface "fogging" or milky-whiteness that appears most often when paint is shot under high-humidity conditions. It can be barely noticeable to almost opaque depending on a variety of factors. The photo below is a good representation. The area in the center has "blushed". As stated above, it will almost always be on the very surface of the paint (or clear), and will polish off with no lasting effect.

Strap some weenies on a grille over that turbine exhaust and your lunch'll be ready at the end of your run, too.

And honest...we're NOT making fun of you or being mean. We're a friendly bunch, and we really WANT to HELP.

I really prollyobly otter build a couple of curbsides on blobular chassisseezez just to get something under glass before I die.

Jes, ĉi tio aspektas racia.

Two FYIs: 1) For Tom Q... "adhering" would be the more accepted way to say this. 2) For everybody else... In drafting all letters have 5 unit widths except for TOM Q. VAXY which has six unit widths and W which has 8.

Yeah, like the one that the singular "chassis" (pronounced "chassee") is still "chassis" when it's plural (pronounced chasseez). Ain't Englush funn?

Well then...my apology for mentioning it. I'm sure you're much better with English than I am with your first language.

Me too. I'm still working on getting my head around the concept of "adhesing" used as a verb. I fear this may be a form I'm not familiar with, possibly promoted by some who may not be familiar with "adhere" as the verb related to "adhesive". Of course, somewhere along the line, "to give" (as in "I gave something to whatshisname") became "to gift" (as in "I gifted something to whatshisname"...which I think sounds ridiculous), so I'm obviously behind the times.

I'd kinda hate to think of them just being tossed out. If you can't find anybody who's willing to buy or trade for them, at least donate them to someplace that sells discards for a worthy cause...like an animal shelter, homeless kitchen, something like that. There is certainly SOMEBODY they can be of more benefit to than the trash can. And in general, most local recycling operations won't really be equipped to get much (if any) value from a potmetal kit with a few styrene parts mixed in.

I used to use my ex's old stockings to filter paint and resin. Works great, but as she had very little imagination, she just thought I was "weird".

Nice one. When I first saw the top image, I thought it was a real car for a couple seconds. That's very high praise.

They're very similar to Letraset dry transfers, if you ever used those. Pay very careful attention to leveling and spacing, or they'll look like dookey. I have found a rounded-tip steel stylus to be the best for application. Like this. It works a lot better than the doofus in the video getting in a hurry and scribbling like a chimp with a ballpoint pen.

Much appreciated info right there. Thanks. Nice to have it clearly spelled out.

What you've got going looks great. I have always thought the body proportions and lines on this kit look very good at first glance, though I've never studied it carefully (and the one I have is slated to be built along lines similar to yours here).

Yup, but people are doing it, and the ones who suffered through the early days will have a leg up on everybody else, no matter how "easy" it gets. Which goes for mass-produced models as well.