Ace-Garageguy

"Cantilever Levitation"

Yeah, me too.

It's Tweedy PIE.

The kid with the boom tube kinda knows what to do with a screwdriver.

I like pizza.

I always wondered why they named a car after a sausage.

They might, just after they've had their tubes tied.

Man, that does it for me. New project #9,789. I have enough stuff to build the transporter, just need to get a Cobra or 3.

It'll be interesting to see if the production version becomes reality. We've been kinda "close" before...

Lotta that from some sources. Most modelers of vintage tin have known that the labeling of the kit in question is gibberish. And doesn't this thread really belong in the "review" section anyway?

Also history...Corvette "R" types have won their class at LeMans 6 times in the recent past. Not too shabby considering that just finishing the race is a MAJOR accomplishment.

And you miss MY point. Everybody seems to want everything handed to them. The most difficult part of building a C7 anything is getting the body right. Well, it's there. I've built full-detail cars from promos and curbsides and slammers. If I can do it... A C7-R is also available. PS. With Hobbico in bankruptcy, I wouldn't expect to see any new-tool kits real soon...

And with enough effort, it can be a full-detail model.

With the C7 available as a base to build on, anyone who really wants a ZO6 or a GS can build one with some applied effort. Oh wait...NOW I see the problem...

Much as I love old Porsches, I've never understood the idiot hysteriia surrounding some of them. I bought my first one, a '58 356 A coupe, for $600. A mostly solid car with a history of neglect and bodged repairs, it wasn't much more than a hot-rod Beetle, but I loved it (having graduated from hot-rod Beetles). The 911 I currently own I bought for $3500. Again, a basically solid car with a history of being owned and worked on by morons. The fact that its value has appreciated by a factor of 4 over the few years I've owned it surprises me, frankly. I've never seen cars as "investments" or "icons", but rather as mechanical friends that I enjoy going out to play with, and I don't have much use for people who wet their pants over anything. But in a wussified world where fewer than one-in-five folks can even drive a stick, the style of automotive "journalism" prevalent today is hardly surprising.

No real surprise to me. The Corvette has been living in world-class supercar territory since the introduction of the C5. But I'm not partial to any make...they all excite or bore me pretty much equally.

Just another one of the indicators that "stupid is the new smart".

I've narrowed quite a few, and this is what I've come up with that works best for me: 1) MEASURE CAREFULLY 2) MARK the first and second cuts with a little white ink from a gel-pen 3) MOUNT the tire to a wheel or a wheel back that has enough of a projection so you can chuck it up in a cordless drill 4) Rotate the assembly slowly in the drill, making sure it's not wobbling 5) While rotating slowly, continue the marks you made earlier with the gel-pen all around the tire 6) With a VERY SHARP, NEW X-Acto or similar, cut on the lines using gentle pressure, while rotating. 7) Cut ALMOST all the way through. 8) Demount the tire and finish the cuts freehand. 9) You can true the edges, if necessary, by sanding on a piece of WET sandpaper (180-600 grit, depending on the material the tire is made of) stuck to a very flat surface.

Not exactly. I've done business with Caterham, and in 1971 I bought what had been the Lotus factory 1962 London Auto Show car (a Lotus Super 7 S2/3). Caterham bought the rights to produce the 7 after Lotus quit. Caterham initially built S4 Sevens, much different in appearance from the S2/3 cars as kitted here. When the S4 parts dried up, Caterham began building the S3 "replica", which is more accurately called a "continuation". Cosworth engines were available in the Lotus-built cars, beginning with a hot-rod 1340cc pushrod engine, which my own car had. Other Cosworth power plants were available later while Lotus was still building the things.

Yeah, it's getting to be so I can't walk down the block without seeing a damm panda; I guess I'll be griping about all the damm flying saucers in another year or so.

Most 1/25 windshield pillars have enough meat to drill a matching pair of .010" holes about 3/16" deep, and insert a short piece of .010" "music wire" which is steel (and considerably stiffer than the same diameter brass wire). Carefully aligned, you can usually get a decent repair with a good quality epoxy, and the joint will be MUCH stronger than it can possibly be if the broken ends are just butt-glued back together.

minimum wage help