Ace-Garageguy

I'll be happy to have her going down the road for two years. If I can't find a metal replacement, I may just put a sleeve in the existing one, and wrap it with epoxy and fiberglass. The only failure mode after that would be seals, and most likely whatever I find will be some Chinese garbage that dissolves in hydraulic fluid. Sorry to keep harping on the abysmally poor quality of replacement parts these days, but just recently I got both carburetor gaskets and accelerator pump diaphragms that dissolve in gasoline after a year or so. Pretty special. And when the client asks "WHY did my car quit again so soon?" and I tell them the ONLY parts I can get now for their application are non-OEM-spec crapp, they think I'm lying to cover my own incompetence. There WAS a commercial warehouse here for US-made bearings and seals, and all I had to do was buy them by the dimensions and material, etc. But they're gone now, unable to compete price-wise with offshore made garbage, sold on the web. And now, in this more-better internet world, the listings on many of the websites fail to include relevant data, were obviously put up by dwerbs who've never actually designed or engineered or made or fixed anything, and the "tech" line people are usually an effing joke...salaried phone jockeys who can't tell you anything that's not on the web-page. And to anyone who even THINKS about saying something about "grumpy old men complaining about the modern world", I would suggest that YOU spend several years in MY shoes, trying to build and fix physical-reality stuff in a world that's increasingly run by morons who think EVERYTHING can be done from their dammed smartphones.

Yes sir, and I know that many people have a lot more difficult things to deal with than the little ones I've been whining about here.

I've been asked several times about which epoxy to use with micro, and this is my standard response for now: I've tested multiple epoxies, and the only one I can unreservedly recommend for use with micro is the West System 105(resin) / 205(hardener). MOST of the epoxies I use need to be very carefully weighed on a gram scale for them to work correctly. They also take 24 hours to cure, and need to be post-cured at elevated temperatures to develop full strength. The West 105/205 is somewhat unusual in that the mix ratio isn't super critical (though care still needs to be exercised in getting it as close to right as possible), but still develops very good strength and hardness. It's so good, in fact, that it's approved in structural applications for use on some full-sized kit planes. Rutan Aircraft specifies it in some applications (Rutan is the guy who built the first small plane to fly around the world nonstop without refueling, and the first privately-built spacecraft to actually go into space https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SpaceShipOne so that's a pretty solid recommendation). The down-side for modelers in a hurry is that it takes 12 hours to cure enough to sand, and for cheap modelers, the minimum quantity is around $50. West 105/205 is available from several sources, including both the aircraft supply sites I posted earlier, Amazon, and others. The smallest quantities available are 1-quart kits. I have several "hobby shop" epoxies to test, but so far, I just haven't had the time. The West stuff works so well, and I usually stock it anyway, that I haven't really had the need to find anything else. Maybe the "other guys" referenced in the thread have developed more info on other resins by now. Bill Engwer

In my experience with the stuff, which spans several decades working extensively with both the phenolic version and the glass version (on real aircraft), I can say say that the glass stuff always tends to go into the air and float around whenever it's removed from its packaging or mixed into a binder. A dust mask and face shield is the absolute MINIMUM protection I use, but lungs and eyes are cheap and easily replaceable, so use your own judgement. Even though it's "non toxic", it can still cause problems. The phenolic stuff isn't as bad, and clumps together a little more. The little things are spheres, too, so when they inevitably get on the floor, it's like walking on tiny ball-bearings.

The question of which way to face those old "frog mouth" scoops has been hotly debated for decades by "experts" and dwerbs who have never changed a spark plug. Depending on several factors, including the design of the specific carbs and their placement in the airflow, either way MAY work, but having them facing forward can also play merry hell with tuning, and tends to collect bugs, rain, and grit. For a model, the most important thing is to get the carbs with the float bowls and linkage oriented in the way they're designed to work in real life (as several people have already said). As far as the scoops go, some cars will run fine with them facing forward, and some will run like crapp at speed, spit and pop, and even blow gas all over the windshield. On a real car, USUALLY, facing the frog-mouth scoops to the rear works fine, facing them to the front SOMETIMES works fine.

She's starting to call every day. I think she wants me.

You MAY find something useful in this build thread. It is the last time I did major mods using micro, and was swearing by the West System epoxy...though it has to cure 12 hours to sand...but it adheres and featheredges beautifully. Be advised: using 5-minute epoxy, or even 30 minute, will DRASTICALLY affect the adhesion, which is directly related to how well it feathers and whether or not featheredges come unstuck when you hit the work with primer.

It'll come in a double, heavy clear plastic bag, both bags tied at the neck (inside a cardboard box). It's not the best way to package the stuff. Large quantities come in poly buckets or barrels. It will be affected by static, but it's not as bad as it could be. It's best to wear latex gloves (which of course you want to do working with epoxy anyway), a respirator, and an apron. If you want to avoid disappointing results, you need to be able to make REPEATABLE mixes, which means measuring carefully and recording your results. Experiment, and when you get a mix you like for a certain application, make the same identical mix every time. Remember to only add the micro AFTER both components of your epoxy are thoroughly mixed. Read the blurb on the Spruce website. Better still, here it is: "These bubbles are actually hollow glass spheres. Because this high-quality glass is very crush resistant, the foam is much stronger, stiffer and water-resistant than any foam made by chemical foaming. These foams displace 4-6 times their weight in most resins and improve the handling characteristics of the base resin. They have a low bulk density and are nontoxic. Mix resin and hardener as directed, then fold in the glass bubbles. Upon cure, a strong, low-density product results which is easy to sand and file. May be shaped to form compound angles and curves. The term "micro" was applied to the mixture of microspheres and epoxy early in the development of composite structures. Although microspheres have been replaced by glass bubbles the word "micro" is still commonly used to reference the mixture. "Micro is used to fill voids and low areas, to glue foam blocks together and as a bond between foams and glass cloth. Micro is used in three consistencies - (1) a "slurry" which is a one-to-one by volume mix of epoxy and glass bubbles, (2) "wet micro" which is about two to four parts glass bubbles by volume to one part epoxy, and (3) "dry micro" which is a mix of epoxy with enough glass bubbles to obtain a paste which will not sag or run (about five parts to one by volume). In all instances, glass bubbles are added to completely mixed epoxy resin and hardener. Wet micro is used to join foam blocks and is much thicker than slurry (it has the consistency of honey) but can be brushed. Dry micro is used to fill low spots and voids and is mixed so that it is a dry paste and will not sag. Apply with a putty knife. Never use micro between glass layers.CAUTION - When mixing epoxy and glass bubbles, wear a dust mask and keep your face away from the balloons that may float up into the air. Although glass balloons are inert, they can lodge in your eyes or in your lungs and cause problems. Handle with care."

I think you might be confusing micro with fumed silica. which can be almost like very fine beach sand. Micro always blows around like the devil.

Just got this exciting news on one of my email accounts...(*LAST time I got one of these, all I had to do to reap the incredible benefits of being recognized as a leader in my field was to send $1500...nah. ) Dear whatevermynameis You have been nominated to represent your professional community in the Professional Who's Who 2017 Edition. The largest online community of professionals. We are very pleased to inform you that your candidacy has been approved. Congratulations! The Publishing Committee has selected you as a potential candidate, based on your standing amongst your professional community as well as specific criteria from the executive and professional council. Given your reputation, the Publishing Director feels your profile would make a welcome addition to our publication. Since we are using our secondary resources, you must verify with us that your current profile is accurate. After your information is verified, your online listing will be approved within 7 business days. Please click here to verify your profile and to formally accept the candidacy. On behalf of our Committee I would like to salute your achievements and welcome you to our association. Deepest Regards, Nomination Committee ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I think I'll become a single-malt Scotch just prior to retiring.

http://aircraftproducts.wicksaircraft.com/item/aircraft-fillers/micro-balloons/b23-500--g? http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/bubbles.php

I don't get it. (Hmmmmmm.....is it really necessary to use a winky-face to designate "sarcasm"? One always wonders these days...)

Frankly, I'm kinda the magic microballoon go-to guy, and I showed most of my processes (that I developed, including specific product numbers, mix ratios, etc.) freely years ago, on multiple forums. To date, I've still never seen anyone do things with the stuff like I do, but there's never any shortage of "experts" willing to take the credit for something they lifted somewhere else. And saying "it's for wood" sounds suspiciously like a misunderstood reference to the fact that I said in one of my long, involved build threads, that after MUCH experimentation, I'd settled on the West System epoxy (which was indeed developed initially for wood) as the optimum binder for the microballoons, being the best compromise between good adhesion, featherability, and ease of handling generally. Not to worry. Unless "they" pretty much copy everything I've ever written on the subject verbatim, it will all be wrong information anyway.

Interesting approach, and nice final lines and proportions. My compliments to the chef.

Yes, the Hot Rod Deluxe article mis-identifies the shot, implying it's the Thompson car. The same article also states that a fuel mixture mistake resulted in an engine failure on the warmup lap, but an account of the '65 Indy meet published at the time states the crank broke in the last, strongest-running of three qualifying engines...during a qualifying attempt. Hard to know exactly WHAT to believe sometimes. Anyway, I'm so curious now about the whole "large diameter titanium tube" thing that I'm going to keep looking for a definitive photo. Surely there's something somewhere. Thompson WAS a great innovator, but if he had a shortcoming, it was a tendency to try too much new and unproven stuff on a single car, and that would seem to be the thing that bit him in the butt during his time at Indy. The power players didn't make it any easier for him though, as the "rollerskate" car was designed to run 12" rims with special tires, and when the ruling class banned them, the 15" wheels and vastly taller tires he was forced to use simply spoiled the car's handling...and he and his crew never got it back.

Boy, not many people have any idea what heel & toe or double-clutching (as we call it over here) is anymore. Pretty cool old school. Since you asked...the slave cylinder split, looks like along the mold seam roughly. When the pedal is depressed, she leaks enough fluid with every stroke to drain the master in about two miles. I did a rig to get her in to the shop, about 6 miles, by making an extension for the reservoir out of a piece of 2" ID radiator hose. The new slave is on order, but isn't a big seller, and wasn't locally stocked. Ought to be in tomorrow. Far as the heat goes, I unearthed a squirrel-cage fan (from storage) that moves enough air to warm the house. I had to disable the part of the circuit that shuts down the burner when the OEM fan shuts down, and do a little non-code wiring, but for the time being, she works well enough. The unit is in the un-heated crawl-space under the house, and a patch is all I'm going to do until it warms up.

What you went through last year was incredibly difficult. I'm glad you survived, and I sincerely hope this year will be a good one for you.

Those of us living in the "sunny South" have no concept of living in temperatures like you mention all winter long. Seriously, the insulation in my current domicile is so poor (excelsior in the walls, if you can believe that...in a house that was originally built as a railroad crew bunkhouse back in the days of steam), that I wouldn't be able to maintain a livable indoor temperature. When it's in the 20s (F) outside, it's a struggle to maintain 60F indoors here.

I always thought it must be a pretty good gig to look up and say "and how does that make you feel?" at more or less random intervals, for 120 bucks an hour.

One of my exes comes to mind...

It kinda takes a nut to help another nut...

The Fujimi 356 and 911 kits are mostly little gems, and I have a fair few of each. Stance usually needs to be corrected, but they're otherwise quite nice...though not absolutely perfect in proportion, but very nice. I'm kinda surprised if Revell elected to do an all-new-tool large-scale 356, they didn't do a 4-cam Speedster. By FAR the most exotic and valuable of the breed. I always found the B / C cabs to be the girl-cars of the bunch. Guess I'll have to have one though, having had just about every flavor of full-scale 356.

Shocking. Yeah, driving without being able to disengage the clutch is a disappearing skill, a little tricky starting on hills. Kinda rough on the poor old synchros too.

I'm assuming liking Campari and soda proves one is a homicidal maniac...or you're just used to the flavor of gasoline, and link it with happy times. The article also states that gin-flavored cheese is available. Yum.