Ace-Garageguy

GM styling is really up and down. Sometimes they get it right. Sometimes they don't.

Designed by a committee. This is their horse.

Well sir, first we need to know how much your mortgage payment is.

If I remember correctly, the hood scoops on the non-S models, besides being somewhat smaller, were non-functional, with an ornamental stuffer in the opening. The S versions fitted with the twincam twin-Weber OSCA engines actually drew air from the scoop. In all fairness to Skip, it can be hard to distinguish photos of "S" cars from non-S, especially these days, where the hood or scoop trim may have been replaced, or the photos simply incorrectly labeled.

Anybody remember MST3K? Loads of cultural and historical references that went over the heads of most of the audience too. There's even an "annotated" version available on youboob that explains what's funny and why. Geez.

You're partially correct. The FE engine represented here does indeed drive the distributor from the front of the block, like all fords except the Y. This is correctly represented by the distributor location on the normally-aspirated engine. To mount a "magneto" to the original distributor drive hole (and clear a blower) would only take an angle drive with bevel gears or an offset drive. Not really too much of a problem. A drive from the Gilmer belt, or off the back of the blower itself, or off the front cover is also an option...but YOU ARE CORRECT, the parts-pack-kit blown engine has the ignition gizmo in a place it couldn't be in reality. HOWEVER...just to make things 100% clear, the Spalding "Flame Thrower" IS NOT A MAGNETO. It's simply two 4-cylinder distributors in a single housing, with two sets of points running on a 4-lobed rotor. Dwell-time is increased and coil-saturation is improved dramatically over a conventional ignition system, but it requires TWO EXTERNAL COILS...which of course a mag would not. Grant built the same unit after buying out Spalding, and it's a kinda PITA to setup for some guys, 'cause both sets of points need to be timed on a distributor machine.

The ancient but outstanding Revell parts-pack Ford 427 has a very nice dual 4-bbl setup. These kits have a reputation for being "fiddly", but a competent modeler can build a real gem from it.

These things are great for any liquid glue. Basically a micro-pipette, they get glue exactly where you want it, and nowhere else. They CAN be a little finicky about clogging though.

Or you can go by these charts. Warning: some simple arithmetic may be required

You need an eye-dropper to properly MEASURE your catalyst. Here's a chart. Adjust for smaller quantities and hot or cold temperatures. Do NOT go outside these percentages. http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/pdf/miscellaneous/MEKPChart.pdf The mix ratio IS IMPORTANT, no matter what you may hear from the slop-jockeys. You also need EYE PROTECTION AND GLOVES. Polyester catalyst is nasty stuff. Plastic cups (styrene ones anyway) will MELT in polyester resin. You're far better off using paper Dixie un-waxed bathroom cups for mixing small quantities. You need acetone for cleaning you brushes or other implements. AND...if you're doing test panels of a size appropriate for a 1/8 scale model, you'll be better off using natural-bristle paint or "chip" brushes 1" wide. "Acid" or "flux" brushes are the choice for doing small-scale layups, but if you're doing anything over about 1" on a side, you simply need a larger brush.

We live in hope.

We have a gizmo at the grocery store that you just dump the change into, and it separates and counts. Takes something like 10% for the service, gives you the rest in bills mostly. And one of my exes gave me a battery-powered sorter / roller. 'Bout the ONLY useful thing she ever gave me.

What kind of glue are you using at the present time?

How's 'bout getting up a joint op with the Needlessly Quoting an Entire Post Complete with 20 Photos Squad?

Someone once told me "if you can't be prolific, at least be consistent". And someone else said "Some people think there's a trade-off between quality and quantity. To do truly 'great work' - you can't do very much of it". So...consider my meager output as part of my pursuit of excellence.

Yeah boy. It takes some powerful effort to get reflections that are that crisp. I figure there's nothing behind it either... Well at least the nose isn't all jacked up...

Here's mine...

Thanks for the interest, sir. Here she be...

1) How much are you paying for perfect functionality here? 2) There are exactly three other people complaining on this thread, and I know for a fact one no longer has a problem. It was on his end. Pretty small "mass hallucination".

The message to the admin is only there if you're NOT logged in. Kindof a trivial glitch, dontcha think? And I'm running Chrome and have ZERO significant issues.

I don't know him, but you both have my sincere best wishes.

I'm not so much interested in "reliving" my modeling youth as I am in taking up where I left off, but with the benefit of a lifetime's worth of manual skills and knowledge. Revisiting my youth might be the better word, because I enjoy replacing kits I had as a kid, but I don't ever want to do the kind of horrible work that was my best effort then. In "my modeling youth" I was a ham-handed hacker, and it wasn't until my teens that my skills even began to approach the level required to achieve my vision. I guess I was lucky in a way, 'cause even as a little kid, I KNEW my glue-smeared, brush-painted, ill fitting messes were crapp, but try as I might, I just couldn't get my hands to do what was required to do much better. I remember getting my first can of spray paint, and thinking that would make all the difference. Well, no. At first, it was just a new way to produce a new kind of unsatisfactory result. But I could see the potential in the few decent looking areas on a mostly orange-peeled or runny, solvent-popped spray job, and it didn't take long to get it pretty much down. My models started looking good, and I won a few contests. I learned to solder and built brass slot-car frames, then started rewinding the motors for more performance. I built a flipper wing on one that was supposed to work like the air-brake on the 300 SLR, but it was so heavy, it tended to make the car fall over. Then I tried what may have been the world's first full monocoque slot-car, fabricated of styrene sheet. It WAS light, and accelerated like a rocket, but it was also fragile, and tended to go straight when the track turned. By my mid teens though, I was working on and driving real cars, and sometimes they had girls in them. By my late teens, my modeling days were done. Throughout my career(s), I've drawn on many skills first acquired as a young model builder, and today, approaching retirement, I've come full circle. Now, my modeling skills are built on real-world knowledge and experience, and with enough effort (when I have the time) I can finally build to the quality I aspired to as a sticky-fingered 8-year old.

One of my exes was a million-dollar-club member, and of course an FMLS member. She was the queen of schmooze, loved running her mouth, and ALWAYS followed up with clients and potentials because she had a phone-talking addiction similar to the smart-phone junkies of the present. She was particularly adept at selling to men, and we won't go into her extra special incentive program that I only found out about late in our relationship. I bought a house through her, and believed I was special. Nope. Anyway, the new one I was waxing poetic about earlier seems to have come down with a case of the brain farts. Let's hope it's only a temporary affliction.