Ace-Garageguy

Bill, you're certainly earning your handle on this one. Fantastic amount of effort, and fascinating to follow along. Something very special happening here.

Just glue some square stock to the backside of the corners, let it dry THOROUGHLY, and round them off with a sanding block. I do things like that frequently.

They only take 5%. That's a nickel out of a dollar. Pretty good deal if you ask me. To put it another way, for every $100 Harry gets, gofundme only gets $5. There is also a 2.9% WePay (like PayPal, but different) processing fee, plus 30 cents per donation. So for every $100 donated to Harry's account, a full $91.80 goes directly to Harry.

You guys who have donated the last few days are the greatest, and Harry's fund is growing. I'm sure if he looks in on it, he'll feel better knowing that he has so many generous and caring friends. As I write this, I see there are about 150 people viewing the board. Mikemodeler has a very good idea..."If you grab lunch out everyday, brown bag some leftovers or a PB&J sandwich and donate what you would have spent on lunch for a day or two a couple of times a month and help make a difference in Harry's life." That's not too much to ask to give back to someone who's given so much of his time, skill and talent to all of us. Please give whatever you can. Even $5 will help Harry to know he's not alone in his fight for his life. It's easy to donate on any credit card, it only takes a few minutes, and it's 100% safe. https://www.gofundme.com/2pndgj5w

You guys who have donated the last few days are the greatest, and Harry's fund is growing. I'm sure if he looks in on it, he'll feel better knowing that he has so many generous and caring friends. As I write this, I see there are about 150 people viewing the board. Mikemodeler has a very good idea..."If you grab lunch out everyday, brown bag some leftovers or a PB&J sandwich and donate what you would have spent on lunch for a day or two a couple of times a month and help make a difference in Harry's life." That's not too much to ask to give back to someone who's given so much of his time, skill and talent to all of us. Please give whatever you can. Even $5 will help Harry to know he's not alone in his fight for his life. It's easy to donate on any credit card, it only takes a few minutes, and it's 100% safe. https://www.gofundme.com/2pndgj5w

Thank you sir. ------------------------------------------------------------- One of the things I love about this board the most is the number of creative people here who have some great ideas. Again, Spex84 has suggested something I wouldn't have thought of, and it's got me fired up to move forward on this one too. Need to clear the bench of a couple or 4 almost-done projects, get them finished, and get going on some new ideas.

Thanks again for the interest. Seeing this thing up on the board makes me want to drop what I'm doing now and dive into it head first, but I'm going to make myself finish a couple of others that are very close first. The adult thing to do. Yeah, right.

I like that idea, probably file it to try on a later version, but in the interest of minimizing work and keeping the instantly recognizable "coffin nose" of the Cord, I'm probably going to lock the design at this point. My thanks to everyone for your interest and responses and ESPECIALLY TO SPEX84. He added what was lacking, and refined the proportions to where I'm really fired up over this thing. A lot of times, I'll burn out on a project because I get kinda bored with my own design work. Chris has added elements I never would have even considered, and made a design with some potential into something really eye-grabbing.

Unfortunately, the DK effect doesn't really seem to adversely affect those most afflicted with it with any regularity, particularly as you go higher up the socio-economic ladder. Just look at the state of the economy, health-care and myriad other systems closely and critically and you'll see it's flourishing all around us, and damm hard to stop once it's taken control.

It's wonderful to see that several people have made contributions to Harry's gofundme cancer account recently, and even the smallest ones are MUCH appreciated and go to help Harry in his fight for life. But come on the rest of you...this is about helping to save someone's life, and the someone is a guy who's done a ton for the modeling community and for this site and for every single person who ever saw his models and was inspired. Every little bit helps, so PLEASE CONTRIBUTE WHATEVER YOU CAN. It's quick and easy on any credit or debit card and is 100% safe. https://www.gofundme.com/2pndgj5w

It's wonderful to see that several people have made contributions to Harry's gofundme cancer account recently, and even the smallest ones are MUCH appreciated and go to help Harry in his fight for life. But come on the rest of you...this is about helping to save someone's life, and the someone is a guy who's done a ton for the modeling community and for this site and for every single person who ever saw his models and was inspired. Every little bit helps, so PLEASE CONTRIBUTE WHATEVER YOU CAN. It's quick and easy on any credit or debit card and is 100% safe. https://www.gofundme.com/2pndgj5w

I've tried several of the solders for pot-metal over the years, and though they sometimes work well, they sometimes don't. I've experimented with them specifically to try to save cast pot-metal real-car parts that were other wise unavailable.The term "pot-metal" is applied to the material because it can be whatever happens to be in the pot. Sometimes the "special" solder will flow and stick beautifully, sometimes not. Metallic composition varies wildly from manufacturer to manufacturer, especially with die-cast models, and very often, the same manufacturer will make models out of different materials. I've also encountered castings that were so porous they'd pop and spit when even mildly heated, or simply crumble. It can be an expensive and disheartening experience to buy the equipment and special solder and then to have the part you're working on destroyed entirely, even if you use exactly the same technique that you've used successfully on other parts. Slow-curing epoxy is almost foolproof, and doesn't present the risk of having the part melt or crumble. Just remember that with epoxies, in general, the slower the product cures, the stronger it will be. 30-minute epoxy makes much stronger bonds than 5-minute stuff.

A slow-setting epoxy is your best bet.

Sorry...I didn't even look at your name under your avatar. Duh. Nice work, man. Damm. The skinny wheels work a lot better, too.

Or a mashup with a '34-ish Ford pickup.

Knockout idea. Who is C. Drysdale?

AGREED!! She'll need a mild sectioning job to match the rendering, but it will be worth it. This one may now have to move back to the head of the list, at least as a curbside. A forward-swept windshield like that was used on several pre-WW II aircraft, and could be thought of as a subtle nod to the Lycoming engine in the original Cord.

No "ruckus", nothing to be sorry for. The OP learned something and will have a better model as a result, I learned something (several things, actually) and we're all adults here...at least those of us who appreciate constructive criticism and correct information. Nobody got rude, nobody felt threatened or had to resort to calling names, and most importantly, again, the OP will have a better model as a result of the exchange. If we can't offer helpful advice because somebody might act like a baby, it's a sorry thing indeed. And if you ever see anything that looks wrong on MY models, PLEASE SPEAK UP.

I agree about the "steamrollers". One of the reasons this one only made it this far was just that, coupled with my (somewhat) desire to keep it front-wheel-drive. That of course would mean same-size tires all around (wider fronts would look incredibly dorky, obviously, on a fenderless car). But I think it would look better as a rear-wheel-drive vehicle, with the big-n-little setup that looks right. The windshield was another sticking point. I didn't like any of the early mockups I did, either split DuVall-style or raked compound-curved contemporary. Thinking about combining the two, but that hasn't happened yet.

Thanks to everyone for your interest and comments. I like yours too, but as you say, I want to retain more of the Cord initial impression. Thinking of putting a quick-change gearbox, turned around, peeking out the front too.

Yes. Man, I LIKE that idea. Lotsa work to do it right, but sure would be different. Hmmmmm. Thanks to everyone for your interest and comments.

Thanks for the interest and comments, gentlemen. The more I look at this, the easier I think it might be to at least finish it to "curbside" status. It might make it to the short list, behind the 3 currently on the bench...the one's I'm trying to stay focused on through completion.

Fine old equipment. I still use a Dual 1219 turntable. Primary amp is a '75 414 Fisher 4-channel. My prize speakers are custom 3-way floor-standing Fuseliers. After blowing the original woofers, I replaced them and modified the crossovers somewhat. They image as cleanly and realistically as anything I've ever heard. I also have a mix of other more recent components.

When they're recessed below the rim like that, they're kinda tricky. The best way would be to chuck the wheel in a lathe, and turn the boss off. A milling machine would also work well. Barring that, I'd probably try a drill bit the same diameter as the outside diameter of the boss, and twist it slowly and carefully, by hand, until you've just shaved the ring off flush with the center.

This is the last of the stillborn projects for today. It started as a partial AMT "Black Force" slammer kit...which has some interesting lines and great wheels and tires, but I always found the proportions to be unsettling. The photo immediately below is NOT my model, but it shows the kit in stock configuration. I started by shortening the hood considerably, and then channeling the main body down between the fenders. The first iteration was going to be a half-top "town car" style '40s custom. Then, with a roof change, it began to evolve into a contemporary retro-classic style custom.