Ace-Garageguy

Great looking tank just the way she sits. Gives the impression of a "clean, one owner". Your weathering is always first rate, but this is a good look too.

Fine fine fine model of a beautiful car. You reworking of the front and rear lights on the model makes a huge difference in the first and overall impressions.

Absolutely agreed 100%. The kit is entirely worth every cent just as a parts source. BUT WAIT...HERE'S THE REALLY GOOD NEWS !!! Because of the discrepancy in the upper cowl width, no matter WHAT the reason, it will work to a lot of rod builders' advantage. One of the MOST popular looks for the '30 Ford is to use a '32 grille shell, as most everybody who's into rods should know. When you do that on a REAL car and elect to run a hood, you HAVE to make a CUSTOM hood because the '32 hood that fits the '32 grille shell is too wide to fit the '30 cowl. You have to do the same thing on a model if it's all scaled correctly. In the case of the new-tool Revell '30...and I just fit it right here to verify it...the older Revell '32 hoods are exactly the right width to fit the new '30 cowl. The older hood needs a trim along the bottom, but it's exactly the right width. You can run a '32 hood with SIMPLE modifications, rather than having to pie-cut one, or build from scratch. The '32 hoods that are the right width are these: as well as any of the old AMT '32 Ford kits and their derivatives and repops The rest of the good news for minimal-effort modelers is that the kinda klugely look of the firewall in the new Revell '30 kit will probably accommodate the '32 hoods without any rework. I've already modified the only one I have so far, but maybe somebody else could verify this on an un-modified original...? We were kinda told the reason the firewall was designed as it was was to fit a hood sometime in the future, but this particular reasoning was never explained fully, and nobody ever mentioned putting a '32 hood on the new '30.

Great site. Limitless moronity. One nice contradiction...they have a big ol' sign on the right that says "please don't block our ads (AdBlock detected)...it's the only way we have to pay for keeping the site running yada yada yada..." But up at the top, they have a slot pimping for donations via PayPal etc.of anywhere from $10 to $2500.

I once tried a "for a good time, call -------" number I found in the same place. The creature who answered was DEFINITELY not human. See...more irrefutable PROOF !!!!!!!

Yup. that sort of thing is rampant. Checking primary sources is critical when doing any engineering design work that relies on old data. Speaking of primary sources...I found this. Obviously it's an original Ford document, or at least prepared from Ford data. Unfortunately, the critical dimensions for determining the width of the firewall are absent. I have a FRONT view of a similar Ford drawing that DOES have these, but as I said, it's temporarily MIA. If THESE dimensions are all checked against the drawing (after printing it out and determining the nominal scale it comes out in), and IF the scaling of the drawing is accurate, it should be possible to determine the width of the cowl quite accurately.

AND by the way...the dimensioned drawings that are on the internet are the same ones shown in my photo immediately above. THEY ARE NOT ACCURATELY SCALED. What this means is that if you go by the dimensions given, and attempt to interpolate several of the NON-dimensioned parts on the drawing...like the width of the firewall...which would be possible if the drawings were accurate and done by a competent draftsman to exact scale, which they're not...you'll often get WRONG results.

Now you have me wanting to build a pro-touring style Maverick.

Good luck finding it online. I have a dimensioned set of drawings around here somewhere for all the model A bodies, but I can't put my hands on them at the minute. I checked the roadster dimensions against a Brookville repop body when we had one in the shop, and they were dead on. That was way back when I was converting an AMT '32 roadster shell to a '30. The dimensions on the white '29 body shell were pulled directly from a brand-new Brookville '30 repop.

Oh, the huge manatees.

I know. But that explanation is one I'm sure will be presented as the "reason" in not too long.

There's another old saying that the basic versions of every major religion in the world agree on in principle (as well as non-religious philosophies of life like Zen Buddhism). "Treat other people as you would like to be treated".

A "custom wide body hot rod '30"? Interesting concept. If you ever see one, preese to ret us all know of its whereabouts and provenance.

You have to love the legions of youtube morons constantly posting the most bizarre, ignorant and inane conspiracy theories, most of them based on what they've heard from other idiots and re-posted, with no regard for actual facts, math, or science. Examples: The Earth is Flat; There are alien bases on the moon that NASA is covering up; there's a huge "star" coming our way that will obliterate this planet...that NASA is also covering up; NASA covers all this stuff up and pretends the Earth is a ball because they're all a bunch of ex-Nazis bent on world domination, and they have a giant secret landmass where they pretend Antarctica is; the CERN particle accelerator in Switzerland has opened a "black hole" and people are slipping through it into alternate universes; all this stuff is being orchestrated by the Masons...and on and on and on and on and on and on. I've been studying some curious anomalies myself over the years and have come to a "scientific" conclusion based on as much reality and fact as all the others, with conclusions drawn as logically from the information and photographic "evidence" presented. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- FLASH: The superficial similarity between an Oreo cookie and the ancient Mayan calendar PROVES beyond a shadow of a doubt that the Earth IS flat like an Oreo, that aliens landed here thousands of years ago and influenced Mayan culture (which contains the coded secrets to the universe including time travel and invisibility), and that every time you eat an Oreo you're ingesting alien DNA that is changing humanity into a different species bred to be slaves. This comparison is proof positive. They are both round, flat, and look kinda similar. What more proof could you possibly need? See? Irrefutable proof...and anyone who disagrees with me is just choosing to believe what thousands of years of human math and science have been using to cover this up. And remember, you saw it here first. EDIT: Recently, an Oreo was discovered that contained a remarkable likeness of the face seen on Mars. More PROOF.

Thanks for your input. I'm not averse to decanting if I HAVE to, but being basically lazy, I'd like to avoid it if possible. Good idea about storing the cans, too.

Little Maverick was probably thinking to itself "whoopeee...I'm a sports car! I'm a sports car!!".

What computer, operating system and browser are you using?

Started prepping the body, scrubbed with hot water, toothbrush, and old-school abrasive cleanser. Body is uniformly scuffed, even in the hard-to-reach places you miss with sandpaper or Scotch-Brite pads. Prepped the hood the same way, and because this kit is molded from a relatively hard styrene (compared to several recent acquisitions on my shelves), I thought I'd see if I could get away with using the hot SEM self-etching green primer. As this is an alloy bodied car in reality, I kinda wanted to have it sitting on the bench during construction in a primer looking like zinc-chromate. These hot primers have no adverse effect on many vintage kits, including some Johan and older AMT models I've used it on...all made back in the day when using the cheapest bottom-of-the-barrel styrene concoction to squeeze every last nickel of profit out of the kit wasn't thought to be a great idea. Anyway, the hot SEM primer attacked and crazed the Gunze plastic immediately. Pretty deep crazing. I can fix it, and the danger of this happening is why I chose to experiment on a relatively small body part, rather than just shooting the whole thing. A very good illustration of why TEST FIRST is good advice.

^^ EXCELLENT ADDITIONAL MATERIAL PROVIDED BY SPEX. Be SURE to click on the link to more photos he's generously posted that further compare and contrast the old and new '30 coupes. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Following up on my remark that the cowl band is rather too large and out of scale, and the idea Spex mentioned above (and that I'd already been working on) of rounding the too-sharp transition of the firewall corners and adding a strip of styrene around the edge to mimic the look of the 1:1 better, as well as the width of the cowl relative to hoods... This shot is of a fairly quick rounding of the firewall, with a strip of .030" X .080" styrene strip added to simulate the cowl extension that looks more like the stock 1:1. The large cowl band has been removed from the body shell too, leaving just what should be a stock width cowl. The width of the strip was selected and installed at a depth that would allow the firewall to bottom on the ridge molded around the inside of the body, as Revell intended. Several pix of it installed on the body shell. Much closer to OEM and typical hot-rod appearance, in my opinion. Compare to the photos of real ones, posted above. Now, here's the bugger. The 1/25 Revell NEW TOOL cowl leading edge is significantly WIDER than the 1/24 Monogram OLD TOOL cowl leading edge...even after the too-large cowl band has been removed...as evidenced by these shots of the difference in the width of a virgin 1/24 Monogram 1/24 '30 coupe hood (green). If everyone was measuring and dividing correctly, the reverse would be true...the 1/24 part would be WIDER than the new 1/25 part. Simply mind boggling.

I'm finding that my old standby Duplicolor and SEM primers are way too hot for some of the kits I'm working with now, including the Gunze Ferrari 250 GTO. I'm getting pretty bad crazing. I know how to fix it; that's NOT the question. I've tried some PlastiKote scratch-filler gray primer for the fix, and it seems to be not as hot as Duplicolor. Not by a long shot. It's working well, and letting me fill the crazing and bring the surface back. Here's the issue. I'm on my last can of PlastiKote, and none of the shops nearby that used to carry it do any more. I can get the "same" (?) product for a good price on Amazon, but I'm reading horror story product reviews about the recent product tending to clog the dip tube down inside the can and refuse to spray...can after can after can. Now, here's the question: has anyone bought PlastiKote scratch-filler gray primer from Amazon recently and experienced this clogging problem?

Starter's on the wrong side. Read the second post from the top for a full explanation. You'll find the starter is on the passenger side on the first generation Caddy OHV engines from 1949-1962. Like zo. From 1963 on, the distributor was in the front of the engine.

Pretty cool. I remember well the Fittipaldi VW road racer too.

Well, it's not a smallblock Chebby. The oil filter and starter locations are reversed. With the distributor in the back and the shape of the oil pan. it looks vaguely GM. The exhaust-port spacing (in the first photo) and oil-filter / starter locations are right for a Pontiac, but the square-cornered valve covers aren't. They look more like Caddy, but the Caddy has the starter on the passenger side, like the Chebby. I'm going to go with Oldsmobile first-generation OHV V8. Introduced in 1949 and built through '63, it came in 303-324-371-394 cubic inch versions. It was immensely strong and was a favorite of the drag guys before the Hemis took over. The original Stone-Woods-Cook Willys Swindler really put that engine on the map. And though the Olds oil filter typically is mounted differently than your model engine has it, it's entirely possible to use an adapter to change the direction it hangs at. At least it's on the correct side for an Olds.

And a good one to remember in case you're ever confronted by an 8-foot metallic alien robot with an energy weapon eyeball...