Monty

My second Dachshund was a table beggar too until we started noticing he was starting to gain weight (not a good thing for Dachshunds). He seemed to be working off the theory that people food is better than any dog food, so I made sure I had copious amounts of lettuce on the table and let him have some whenever we ate. I can't imagine a dog liking that stuff, be he seemed to.

Your car paint looks remarkable. Did you rattle-can it or airbrush it? Any polishing involved?

Heard some people in the break room saying it would now be virtually impossible for the average US citizen to be able to board a plane without “Real ID”. I assume this will require more bureaucratic hassle involving a birth certificate, background investigation etc. Anybody had to “upgrade” recently? If so, how much of a pain is it?

I have no doubt about the accuracy. Anyone who has seen your work knows you wouldn't do something like that without doing your due diligence via a ton of research. Just curious how something like that happens in the 1:1 world.

I wonder who gets to make the call on what kits are brought in. I waited forever for my local Hobby-RobMe* to get that Cougar. Still hasn't happened so I ended up buying one off eBay. My Walmart has an endcap with +/- 15 kits, all of which were originally designed over 50 years ago (all but one were AMT). No 2nd-gen Cougar but the re-released Mach Won kits I paid $35.00 apiece for are selling for $19.99. *Bring back the 40% off coupons.

I have dozens and dozens of model paint bottles, but am running into issues as far as keeping them organized. I'm currently using some units kinda like this with the paints grouped by color, then arranged from lightest to darkest (example: Tamiya LP-50 Bright Red to Humbrol #20 Crimson.) The problem first arose when the village idiots at Rustoleum decided to kill off the majority of the Model Master enamel line. Having been some of my favorite paints, I scouted eBay for hobby store clearance sales and bought multiples of old favorites or ones I anticipated using on future projects. But as you might suspect, new additions mean constant reorganizing of the bins. Long story short (too late, I know) I'm just wondering if someone has figured out a better way to organize multiple paints and still keep them readily accessible.

From Caterhams to...Caterpillars? We've seen your talents in a number of scales and automotive categories, but this was a surprise, at least to me. I know nothing about the subject matter but it looks like you nailed the details as usual. Nice work! I saw the "Kilroy" image (Kevin was here) on one of the hatches and went back to the WIP to learn the background. Great tribute! Question: why would a few external parts remain painted in Caterpillar yellow?

I'd never heard of this kit being problematic but you obviously overcame every obstacle you encountered. That is an amazing shade of red. Would you mind telling us which exact paint it was? (ex: Model Master #1619).

Over the years, each one of those manufacturers made kits that were top notch, but they also made kits that were lacking in quality. As stitchdup said above, sometimes only one mfr offered a kit of the car you wanted to build, so you bought it and made the best of it using your talents and whatever resources were available.

Kinda close, but I believe those were designed and made by Ronal.

OK, the original post has been fixed. Apologies for the mess.

I’m curious what “mess” you guys are seeing. I did steal the pic directly from the “Wheels” thread, but all I currently see is a little blue box with a question mark inside. And yes, they’re the wheels on the black Grand Prix.

Saw these in the Wheel thread and remembered seeing them when they first came out. I believe they were made by Enkei. Would love to have them in styrene or resin.

I've been a fan of MPC C3 kits since I first built one as a young teen, and I'd say yours turned out nicely, especially that MCW paint. If you get a chance, I'd love to see engine and chassis pics too.

Living in a small town in the heart of the Midwest, I've used eBay for most of my hobby purchases for years. Most sellers try to be very prompt when shipping your product, but since the USPS became the default delivery system, stupidity reigns supreme. Here's my latest example: In Transit to Next Facility April 27, 2025, 2:25 pm Departed USPS Regional Facility OPA LOCKA FL DISTRIBUTION CENTER April 27, 2025, 5:28 am Arrived at USPS Regional Facility OPA LOCKA FL DISTRIBUTION CENTER April 26, 2025, 1:11 am In Transit to Next Facility April 25, 2025 Arrived at USPS Regional Origin Facility LAS VEGAS NV DISTRIBUTION CENTER April 22, 2025, 6:13 pm USPS picked up item LAS VEGAS, NV 89147 April 21, 2025, 2:48 pm Shipping Label Created, USPS Awaiting Item LAS VEGAS, NV 89147 April 20, 2025, 1:54 pm Nevada to Florida, apparently bypassing the entire Midwest. I had another one that was at a hub three hours away, so knowing how things used to work, I anticipated delivery the next day. Nope. Went from Colorado to...Salt Lake City, Utah. Eventually it made it back here. Over the last few years, most of my other shipments have been complicated by ping-ponging between hubs in other states. I had one shipment bounce back and forth in Philadelphia for three days before someone allowed it to escape and actually hit the road. St Louis and Omaha are almost as bad. I've heard the USPS is begging for another raise in stamp prices. Sure, why not. While you're at it, chance your symbol to one of these: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...f4ed8ea44a.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0482d149e3.jpg

Kind of ironic that I'm answering this since I don't like silver as a car color, but based on responses to numerous past inquiries on this subject, Tamiya's gloss aluminum (TS-17) has been a consistent favorite.

As you can tell from the title, I've got an AMT '65 Galaxie convertible kit. My intent is to improve the look of the windshield and vent windows, as the kit's one-piece glass would look heavy and inaccurate when viewing the interior. I'm thinking of using trimmed pieces of acetate for the vent windows, but haven't come up with a good idea for anything that will match the natural curve of the windshield, nor do I have access to a Vac-u-form. TIA for all helpful ideas.

I'm amazed at the number of choices we have from aftermarket tire manufacturers (resin and 3D) but was curious which paint you guys would say is the best for replicating the shade of 1:1 tires. Years ago, my go-to paint for this kind of thing was Model Master Black Chrome Trim paint (#2735), but it's pretty scarce these days, so I'm curious what else is out there. If you can post pics showing tires painted with whatever you happened to recommend, along with the P/N of the paint, that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, I'm trying to keep everything under the hood, hence the cross ram type intake I posted.

I've got the AMT Eckler's Corvette kit, which can look killer if done correctly, but it's a real letdown to pop the hood on a car like this only to find a completely stock Big Block Chevy in the engine bay (not even chrome valve covers!) For simplicity's sake I'll keep the big block, but I'd like to add a little "zing" to the top end by sticking something like this on it. I'm not all that familiar with current casters and their products, so any links to one of these for a 1/25 BBC would be appreciated.

I'm way behind most of you guys when it comes to drag racing details, but at some point in the near future I'll be starting an early '70s funny car. As regards painting, I'm curious how the underside of the car body should look. Were these typically fiberglass bodies? If so, should I try and replicate raw fiberglass, or were they primed and painted as well?

Having built this kit as a kid, I was elated when Round2 re-released the old AMT Mach Won funny car. It had been my holy grail kit for decades, but I couldn't swing the $175.00+ that it usually sold for on Ebay. That said, I was beyond disappointed that the new release didn't include the original decals that helped make the car so appealing to me as a youngster. I've tried finding the decals but they're rare and would probably be problematic given their age, so I’m hoping one of you with a full set can post a pic with a ruler or something similar on the bottom and side of the pic. I'm going to try and work with a decal maker to reproduce them, but getting the dimensions correct will be critical.

I just joined the club the other day. Got a notice on my phone that my EZ Pass "account" was in arrears and needed to be paid immediately. I used EZ Pass years ago while living in Dallas, but made sure I had no remaining debts before I left for a tiny town in the Midwest. I couldn't tell you where the nearest toll road was out here. Just out of curiosity, I looked up the area code for the phone number they provided - NY state. Never been there, never going to go there.

Always nice to see a well built Western Star on here as they're generally underrepresented. Sounds like you've got the trifecta of model building working for you: 1) Talent/ability 2) Encouragement from others 3) Localized 3D-printed specialty items that help set your model apart. Would you mind telling us which exact paint you used for the truck body (ex: Model Master #1619)? Looks like a gorgeous shade.

More often than not, when I want some entertainment, I go on YouTube. Problem: almost everything is loaded with ads, which I can't stand (haven't watched TV in over two years 'cuzza that). There are (supposedly) some very good ad blockers out there, but there are rumors that YouTube may not let you access content if you have one, and I'm not going to "upgrade" to YouTube's ad-free option. Recommendations? Bonus question: also need an ad blocker for my iphone (mostly for YouTube). Will most/all work with Apple stuff?