Monty

I've got a few kits (AMT '66 Fairlane) that came without any semblence of these - just the flat tops of the sheetmetal shock tower itself. My scratchbuilding skills are mediocre at best, so I'm hoping there are some of these available in resin.

Last time i checked, he'd only posted twice, so it's doubtful he'll be popping in to solve this once and for all. I took him literally because his query specifically mentioned the back side of the grille. Had he meant otherwise, he probably would've just asked how to detail a grille. I happen to think the other responders overlooked the words "back side" & automatically went to their personal default responses for applying black washes etc. In my experience, the back sides of many model grilles have imperfections that need to be removed, which will leave you with bare plastic in need of paint. The best builds I've seen have the back side of the grille detailed with muted silver and black, mimicking the design on the front side (usually done when the design makes it hard to use the sand-from-behind method).

A lot of these do look like retreads from the Testors and Model Master lines, but I think the honey, the caramel and the fluorescents are all new. I still don't get why they went with the 1/4 oz size. I wish I could find an original, sealed bottle of #2727 Ford Engine Blue from the early 80s. I bought one back when Monogram first released their Boss 429 & was very pleased with the paint because it matched the shade of the engines in my dad's Fords. Testors still sells a P/N 2727, but now it's labeled as Ford/GM blue, and it's several shades lighter.

I agree. You'd think the marketing geniuses would try to find a tie-in somewhere. This "policy" of theirs goes way back before the lacquer car colors ever came out. I remember having to buy spray cans of Cherry Red and Black & Blue Pearl enamel because Testors didn't offer them in the 2 oz. bottles. I'm sure there were several others, too.

If you hadn't heard, they recently came out with some new colors, but only in 1/4 oz hars. Some of the colors sounded interesting, but the last thread we had about these gave me the impression that there aren't many places who are carrying them. Anyway, if you've got some, I'd appreciate it if you'd post some pics - even if it's just color swatches on spare parts. For some reason the honey and the caramel sound enticing...

I can vouch for their enamels. The pigments are very finely ground and come in an extensive range of colors. While they may not offer fifty (hyperbole) shades of metallic blue like Model Master enamels or Tamiya lacquers, their gloss colors offer great coverage and airbrush nicely (reduce them with lacquer thinner for better results). Their military & other flat finish colors work very well for car interiors & can be gloss coated with good results for car bodies. They also offer a few candy colors (red, green and an orangey-yellow) and their own MetalCote line (enamels), which I believe preceded the Model Master Metalizers. Two bits of advice: 1) Never rely on published paint color charts when buying colors you're not familiar with. In my experience, Humbrol, Testors and many others are so far off it's scary. See if you can find a couple different Google images of items painted in the color you're intersted in. 2) get one of these Over long periods of time, Humbrol paints may start to separate (as will Testors), but a few minutes with one of these will return it to like-new condition. They're fairly inexpensive, but take my advice and get this one instead of the slightly cheaper Micro-Mark version

Best special edition ever - Jukes of Hazzard. http://api.viglink.c..._13366855675401

Nothing in the world of models gets my attention like a nicely done replica stock build, and you've done a great job on this one. That emberglow paint is sweet!

And if I bolted a JATO setup to a Dumpster, I'd have the same combination: ugly, fast(er) and hyper-expensive. Can you help me understand why are you so willing to overlook the hideous design, especially for a vehicle in this price range?

If you're willing to plunk down +/- $600k for what appears to be dysentery with doors, you probably trademarked the phrase "That's hot!" and carry your chihuahua with you everywhere you go. You can find good-looking cars all along the automotive timeline. As far as this car is concerned, the blind should count their blessings.

Mark has been known to make his own parts when kit parts are missing or unsatisfactory.

From post # 41: I use talc (baby powder) for the texturing. I add it to the paint and spray. The more talc, the coarser the texture. And it makes the shop smell lilac fresh... with just a hint of lacquer.

Strange that Monogram would bother to tool up a smog air pump for this but ignore the 2-1-2 exhaust configuration (dual exhaust from the engine merges at a single cat and re-emerges into dual pipes ). The battery issue is mystifying too, as C3 ('68-'82) batteries were in the compartment immediately behind the driver's seat. The vinyl rings are an ingenious solution to making the wheels fully accurate. It's almost impossible to achieve the correct look with paint. All my sources show the black centers are correct for this car. Can't wait to see your installments on paint!

This is the part I've been waiting to see. Can you elaborate a little on your masking technique? Looks like you're using 3M fineline tape.

Outstanding work, Daniel!

Did the kit come with gauge decals or did you make your own?

A quick search of ebay shows that ESCI, Entex and MPC(!) also offered variants of the Miura. If for some reason I couldn't find the Hasegawa, would any of these be roughly similar in quality?

Fantastic color combo! As several others have said, more pics would be great.

Wow, the obliviousness on this board runs deep.

Go back to page 1 and look at when the OP posted this. Then look at his profile to see the last time he was even on this board. Call me crazy, but I don't see the point of posting positive comments for someone who will likely never see them.

Yes, but they're "recyclable" (biodegradable).

I'll admit I thought you fabbed up the brackets for the alternator and the air pump since I couldn't imagine your mind allowing the existence of unsupported items as seen on most AMT/MPC engines. It just seems strange that Monogram would include that kind of detail & then do such a mediocre job on the manifold, which reminds me of Trumpeter's piece for the Falcon engine. I also wondered if you had replaced the belts with something better. Did you just thin them from underneath?

Guys, while I agree that the builder did a great job on this Mustang, he hasn't even been on this board since September 2009. You're wasting your time leaving comments.

OK, you and slantasaurus have solved the "what" issue. Now, can you explain why Ford would go to the trouble of painting the front cover with red oxide primer while the rest of the axle is painted black?

I've noticed that a good percentage of modelers who build Fords with the 9" rear end paint the axle and differential housing in a semi-gloss black, while the front cover that accepts the driveshaft is usually done in a rusty brown. Is that done to depict nodular iron with surface rust? Why wouldn't that piece be the same color as the rest of the axle assembly?