Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Monty

Members
  • Posts

    3,233
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Monty

  1. A quick Google search found this: http://www.modelgrade.net/brands/Mr.-Hobby.html?page=2&sort=featured.* Mr Hobby products have always been more expensive than most others, so don't be shocked by the prices they're charging. OTOH, from what I've read, when these products are used correctly, it's hard to argue with the results. *I've never dealt with this company, so you may want to do a little digigng on your own to check them out before you order anything.
  2. IMNSHO, Danny is building a solid reputation for himself by taking a professional approach to all aspects of his casting business. When I went to place my first order with him, I found him to be friendly, responsive and accommodating. The products I ordered were already in stock and they arrived at my home in just a few days. If you haven't dealt with a resin caster before, start with this one. My only regret is that I hadn't even heard of him until about a month ago. Thank goodness for this hobby board!
  3. Note to self: Posting while multitasking will make you look like an idiot. Stop it. Stop it now.
  4. For those of you who're considering building AMT's Avanti kit or using its engine, here's a link to some up-close pics of the 1:1 J-5 engine. IIRC, AMT included parts to build the single turbo engine as well as this twin-turbo version. http://www.studebake...1/dc230211.html
  5. Seriously? Fifty-some people read this but it only gets one response? (Thanks, Jacen!) All the methods I listed above were things I've read about on this board, so where are all the practitioners of the ersatz vinyl arts?
  6. Over the years, modelers have used a number of ways to create vinyl tops for their kits. I've read recommendations for everything from spraying a flat color at a greater distance to springing for the entire Testors' vinyl top system. IIRC, there was also a method that involved using masking tape and...? (Apparently I don't recall). Recommendations are one thing, but pictures make your point. Let's see what you've got.
  7. Tom, looks like you've created an inexpensive alternative to a food dehydrator, but I'm curious about something. What made you decide on a 20" height? (I'm guessing you've made some calculations based on the radiated heat of the bulb vs the melting point of styrene). Is the lining material Dynamat?
  8. You are indeed one fortunate man. You not only scored a nice, complete kit for $5.00, you may also have found the last MRC wheel & tire set in the entire US. It's hard to believe that set wasn't snapped up ages ago, since MRC hasn't made them in over a decade. This should be a fun and interesting project to watch!
  9. Here's someone who had a terrible nightmare!
  10. Gunze-Sangyo (Mr Color) made several acrylic paint shades that I really liked, but they withdrew all their aqueous acrylics from the US a couple years ago. At the time Gosfords Hobbies in NSW was carrying the entire line, so I was able to stock up on all my favorites. The paint was very reasonably priced, as was the shipping to the US. (Just checked - they're no longer carrying them )
  11. Capturing the right sheen for a given surface is essential for a realistic appearance. Steve, your work here just goes to show how much a well done interior can enhance the appearance of a model. Couple questions: 1) What's the secret to making the piping adhere to the seat without messing up the paint? 2) What paint did you use on the dash?
  12. I've learned that Donn often mixes various paints & pearls to get a particular shade he wants, so there's a possibility that this may not be available as something you can purchase off a shelf.
  13. Darren, that's a beautiful red on that truck. What paint did you use?
  14. Interesting. Some of the advice that I've read over the last couple years suggests that you should finish off by spraying lacquer thinner through the gun. Apparently acrylics can adhere like crazy, so you need to use the strongest means possible to keep them from drying inside the gun.
  15. Some paint issues (orange peel) can be fixed by using heat to make the paint flow out better. Several folks on here use food dehydrators to get better results, and I've even seen some low budget attempts (40W bulb in a cardboard box) that worked for the builder. How fresh is that paint and what issues are you having with it?
  16. Wow. Gil, would you mind shooting another pic showing the front of the dash?
  17. 1) I've seen a number of you recommend Windex as a reducer. Does the blue dye in it ever affect lighter shades of paint (white, yellow etc)? This might sound like a silly question on the surface, but I've never used a reducer in any other paint system that wasn't clear. 2) Others of you have recommended 70% rubbing alcohol as a reducer. I've noticed my local pharmacies also have a 91% solution. Would this work as well? Any reason not to use it? 3) What's the best clear to use with acrylic paints?
  18. I'll be anxiouly waiting to see how yours turns out. My Chevy SS454 pickup is still in its box because I hated the way they did the headlights on it.
  19. You're one of a small group of modelers who've discovered the wide range of colors available in nail polishes. Unlike hobby or touch-up paints, you can find interesting nail polish colors virtually everywhere. I like the color combination you came up with, but I'm curious what prompted the folks at Max Factor to call it "Raisin Perle".
  20. Any candy is going to look washed-out over white styrene. I wish you still had the can so you could spray it over a gold undercoat. I did a black & candy red Mopar back in the early '80s using Hot Rod Red over gold. Who knows where the car ended up, but the color combo was so striking, I went as far as asking the board for tips on creating better stripes, as I intend to do a copy of that car. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=60790&hl= Mind you, I'm not knocking the Tamiya stuff. Both their acrylic and lacquer candy reds can produce beautiful finishes if used correctly. Show us what you've painted using X-27.
  21. Welcome to the board, Hal! For someone who hasn't built a model car in over 30 years, you're certainly off to a great start! Can you tell us what all is involved in getting the pleats etc of an interior to look as good as yours?
  22. Even though there's a small contingent in here who're tired of '57 Chevies (among others), I can't imagine a 1/24 or 1/25 '57 Bel Air ragtop kit not selling like crazy.
  23. They're clear enamel reds, as is Humbrol's #1321. Do you happen to have some pictures to support your statement? As you probably know, the final shade of a translucent color is mostly determined by color of the undercoat and the number of candy coats sprayed over the undercoat. All things being equal, I'd be very interested in seeing a comparison between the Testors and Tamiya paints over a common base, although that might be a little tricky since X-27 is an acrylic.
  24. I'm glad you decided to go with this color combination. It's different enough to get noticed without being garish, and the black pinstripes will complement the two greys perfectly. You've obviously put some time and effort into that hood. Anything special going under it? As far as painting the wheels, I'd suggest Alclad polished aluminum. Not quite as shiny as chrome, but subtle, like the rest of the car. I'm liking this concept & can't wait for your next installment.
  25. I assumed he had it dialed in for painting model bodies before he started, so I went to the next step in the diagnosis. Dave, your instruction booklet should have some basic tips on how to adjust your airbrush so it can do what you want it to. Donn knows his stuff, so it sounds like you may want to open that pattern up. If you have some junk bodies, sheets of white paper & other expendable stuff, practice patterns & width adjustment on those.
×
×
  • Create New...