Monty

Just curious if anyone makes 90-degree boots such as you'd find on an HEI distributor. http://t0.gstatic.co...Zar2x5uAW0dM-Ww

The question is pretty simple - I'm not asking about 289/302s, 1/24 302s or anything else quasi-related. While I realize the difference in deck height would be negligible in scale, I'd still like to know the answer.

Great color choices, Felix!

It's one thing for you to astound us with your abilities in 1/24 or 1/25 scale, but to pull off something like this in 1/43 is outstanding. I couldn't even imagine trying to build that rear wing. Well done!

So, you're saying I should be looking at the stuff that takes 12 hours to dry? That's fine. I just wondered if there was one in particular that would be optimal for this situation. I've just never had good luck with CA stuff, so I don't use it anymore unless there's nothing better to use. In this case, the epoxy may help form part of the unit, and I may also be drilling into it.

I've got a resin item that I want to bond to styrene in order to make one complete assembly. Once the two items are together, they will require a final filing and sanding to achieve the shape I'm looking for. To make sure the bond is as strong as possible I'd like to use an epoxy, but having never used the stuff before, I'm not sure what to buy so I'd like to hear your suggestions. I'm not a big fan of CA-type glues, so please confine your recommendations to epoxies. Two stipulations: 1) Should be relatively inexpensive 2) Should be widely available (WalMart, Lowe's etc) Today's ignorant question: Would this stuff work? http://t0.gstatic.co...3nScyeFdai-g8Sg If not, maybe something else in the Loctite line?

TS-29 (semi-gloss black) is still impossible to find in my local hobby shops & none of my usual online sources have had it in stock in months. I hope Tamiya gets these backorders filled soon before the Cal 'tards find another reason to jam things up again.

Years ago, when I first discovered their site, they seemed to have quite a few talented members and the majority of the builds were worth checking out. Over the last couple years, however, the number of remarkable builds on there has gone down. I'm not saying it's Gluebomb Central, just that I haven't been awestruck by anything on there for quite a while. Can you elaborate on your experience with them?

Donn, those are some killer shades you've created. Can you be more explicit about what you used for basecoats to achieve these colors?

Although I'm not a member of their forum, I occasionally pop in on briansmodelcars.com to check out the WIP and completed models. I've noticed they enforce a set standard of quality when it comes to photographs members can post. Pictures that don't meet the standard are deleted and the OP is asked to submit better pictures before they'll allow them on the board. I wonder if something like that could be implemented on here when an especially poorly written post is submitted. Maybe a polite but firm PM asking the OP to rewrite their post before allowing it to appear...

Casey, I agree that AMT should've taken a little more time with their rendition of the Rally GT. It could've been a great pre-radial street tire. You and I also agree that the Arii tires appear oversized on 1/25 scale models. OTOH, the Arii's side script, which is what most people will notice first if painted correctly, is dead nuts on, especially when compared to MPC's tire. Revell found a way to mold legible script on their '70s funny car front tires, so getting a more accurate rendering of the BFGoodrich lettering shouldn't have been that tough for MPC. If Chief Joseph finds a way to pull off two tires sizes in each scale, I know I wouldn't be the only one trying to deplete his inventory. I guess my only recourse is to wait (impatiently) and wish him all the best in his experiments with shrinking resins.

What on earth do you use for plug wires in this scale?

The only kit-based Radial T/As I can think of were those originally made by MPC (and occasionally found in some newer AMT kits). Long story short, I'm being kind when I say the MPC tire's design and construction is mediocre when compared to the ARII T/As. Unfortunately, the ARII tires tend to look slightly out of scale on most 1/25 models, and some of the tire sets came mounted on some horrendously ugly wheels. In addition, the size of the hole for the wheel is large enough to preclude the use of most 1/25 scale wheels,so you'll probably have to resort to raiding Monogram kits if you want better looking wheels. Hence my fervent plea for a set of these that'll fit my model cars.

I'm not sure what you mean by "collecting references", but I'm intrigued by the prospect of having these tires available. Can you give us an estimate as to when we might be able to buy them?

While these are very nicely done, I'd give my left...over lunch to have a nice set of BF Goodrich Radial T/As. As popular as they were, I could see them still being lucrative. I wonder if some of our more talented modelers might be able to use the Arii tires as a starting point and make some castable masters in sizes more suited for 1/25 scale cars. Did I mention Pleeeeeaaaaaassse?

Couple points: 1) Am I still the only one who doesn't think he's asking how to detail the front of a grille? 2) Even if he does the sand-through technique to open the grille, he'll still need a realistic way to address the areas where the chrome was sanded off. The OP hasn't even been on here in two weeks, but this might help someone else with the same question.

That must've taken some effort to rub out satin paint and end up with that finish! Obviously it was worth it. I love the way that engine turned out, too. If your arms aren't too tired from making that paint shine, pat yourself on the back for a job well done. Any chance we can get a picture of that car outside in the sunlight?

Once you find an appropriate Cadillac, here are a few other ideas: 1) Paint all three cars with the correct shades of lacquer paint, then use an easily-removed paint to replicate the various slogans they wrote on each other's cars. 2) Find a 1/25 dead cow for Jeremy's Camaro. 3) Use the Tamiya "Friends" figures to replicate May trying to jump start his Caddy.

I've been a rattle can hater for decades, but that doesn't mean other people can't have success with them. Here's a mid-70s Vette that board member jcvt went old school on. This was painted using Testors enamel straight from the can. No polishing, no clearcoat, just well-applied paint.

It's not a stupid question. In the real world, one week of regular driving would trash those tires.

Christian, if you found a way to create and complete a model of this, could it be called a Fourgon Conclusion?

In my experience, newer modelers often overlook the interior as something that can enhance the accuracy of a given model. This is a major oversight because dashboards, especially the older ones, can be one of the most detailed aspects of the entire kit. I wish I could take credit for this, but IIRC, it was done by one of the members of this board. As others have said, study pictures of the 1:1 items and use whatever you need to emulate that look.

Sorry to hear you had a bad experience with the paint. Since you mentioned Testors by name, I assume the nozzle was responsible for most of the carnage. Here's a link to my comments about Testors cans from the Abandon the Airbrush thread: http://www.modelcars...pic=55515&st=41 That said, everything else looks pretty sharp.

Thanks Marcos!

Allow me to quote myself from a similar thread back in 2010: I gravitated to airbrushes years ago because I had too many projects ruined by Testors rattle cans. After hours of body prep, I would follow the litany of prescribed rituals required for getting a new can of paint ready to use (shaking the can, heating it in warm water, etc). Then, depending on the whims of the model gods, the notorious Testors nozzles would usually do one of the following: A ) ejaculate viscous globs of paint in a pattern that only Jackson Pollock could appreciate B ) allow a trickle of runny paint to spurt out 1/2 inch from the can. To get a proper visual of this, imagine trying to stop a bout of dysentery by cutting a cork from top to bottom and only inserting one half. C ) spray some paint in a usable manner. I can't recall if this ever actually happened on any of my projects, but a few of my friends say they had some success, and they don't lie very often. Unlike a lot of you, I couldn't seem to manage varying the pressure on rattle cans. (Mist coats? Ha!) To me, using rattle cans was the virtual equivalent of trying to do calligraphy with a charred log. I'll take the "extra effort" of the airbrush any day.