Monty

So....what happened?

Ron, I can certainly understand your reluctance to buy Tamiya paints at those prices. That's more than double what I pay for them here in the US! I'm glad to hear you found an alternative you're happy with. From what I saw on the Zero site, it looks like these come in a good variety of colors, all pre-reduced for airbrushing. I hope we'll get to see some pics of models you've used these paints on.

There are plenty of internet resources that can help you find accurate colors for detail painting etc. I've heard this is a fairly decent kit, so I'll be interested in seeing how yours turns out.

I'm trying to figure out what it means when I ask for opinions on two specific, well-established paints and I get recommendations for HOK, Black Gold and Zero Paints instead. (In fairness, Ron did mention that the Tamiya paint works well if decanted and airbrushed.) Are these gold paints so sketchy that you had to go and find alternatives?

Very nice work on this one, Carl. Excellent color choice, and great foil work. It’s so nice to see a ’70 Mustang where the area around the headlights has been painted correctly instead of having that “goldfish” look propagated by the original box art. Question: did you use some kind of candy paint on the taillights to get that “look”?

I know a lot of you are big Tamiya fans, but I read a lot of negative reviews (basically: really streaky coverage) about this gold when it came out. Is it really that difficult to use? My other hobby lacquer option is Testors Pure Gold. I'm curious whether Testors used the same sized large flake in this paint as they did in many of the other paints in the One Coat line. That '70s bass boat metal flake look is a real deal breaker for me. On the off chance you've painted models using either or both, I'd love to see pics!

Welcome to the board, Pauli! It's always encouraging to see a younger modeler who has developed the skills to create detailed builds like these. I can tell by the Dart's grille that you've learned to get the small details right, which results in a much better overall build. The paint on these two looks very nice. What kind of paint do your prefer for painting model bodies?

I saw this at Hobby Lobby the other day. I guess I still think it's weird to see a 1/25 scale Monogram kit, let alone one with a skill rating of 3. Is it basically the same as this? The wheels look just like the ones in the Monogram kit. For some reason the skill rating on this one is only 2. Or this? I thought the most current Bel Air hardtop tooling was based on the '55 convertible Revell released about a decade or so ago. The Hot Rod series cars were released in the '80s, weren't they? Somebody at Revellogram really likes those blankity-blank bumper guards...

As good as his Dart looks, I'm far more interested in his corrected '69 Mustang. Does Dan have an actual site where I can see what all he has to offer?

George, you may want to take a look at that link. It still references the name Scale Coachworks, but it doesn't seem to have anything to do with them. It's basically a bunch of links to places where you can buy kits & diecast stuff. I've seen the Dart Swinger you mentioned and it's killer. That's kinda why I was hoping he had finished the Mach 1 project I referred to above.

I've put off building my Revell '69 SCJ Mustang because I just can't get past that poorly rendered grille area. After doing some digging on here, I found this post from Dan Janssen of Scale Coachworks. http://www.modelcars...t=20#entry65682 Admittedly, it's from 2008, but I'd still like to see if he finished the project and has them available for sale.

I've got these three kits in the on-deck circle. I have Googled the 1:1 cars and found all kinds of pictures of engines, interiors, paint colors etc, but I can't seem to come up with any chassis shots that show how parts would appear in brand new or correctly restored condition. I'm specifically interested in close-ups of a complete front suspension, pics showing basic chassis color (I assume red oxide), subframe rails, rear springs and gas tank. I was surprised that Google let me down on this, and I hope some of you can fill in the blanks for me. Thanks!

Rickshaw His model has an inline 6-cylinder for propulsion, hence the name, although I'll admit I don't get why he spells it that way.

Can ya show us?

A quick Google search found this: http://www.modelgrade.net/brands/Mr.-Hobby.html?page=2&sort=featured.* Mr Hobby products have always been more expensive than most others, so don't be shocked by the prices they're charging. OTOH, from what I've read, when these products are used correctly, it's hard to argue with the results. *I've never dealt with this company, so you may want to do a little digigng on your own to check them out before you order anything.

IMNSHO, Danny is building a solid reputation for himself by taking a professional approach to all aspects of his casting business. When I went to place my first order with him, I found him to be friendly, responsive and accommodating. The products I ordered were already in stock and they arrived at my home in just a few days. If you haven't dealt with a resin caster before, start with this one. My only regret is that I hadn't even heard of him until about a month ago. Thank goodness for this hobby board!

Note to self: Posting while multitasking will make you look like an idiot. Stop it. Stop it now.

For those of you who're considering building AMT's Avanti kit or using its engine, here's a link to some up-close pics of the 1:1 J-5 engine. IIRC, AMT included parts to build the single turbo engine as well as this twin-turbo version. http://www.studebake...1/dc230211.html

Seriously? Fifty-some people read this but it only gets one response? (Thanks, Jacen!) All the methods I listed above were things I've read about on this board, so where are all the practitioners of the ersatz vinyl arts?

Over the years, modelers have used a number of ways to create vinyl tops for their kits. I've read recommendations for everything from spraying a flat color at a greater distance to springing for the entire Testors' vinyl top system. IIRC, there was also a method that involved using masking tape and...? (Apparently I don't recall). Recommendations are one thing, but pictures make your point. Let's see what you've got.

Tom, looks like you've created an inexpensive alternative to a food dehydrator, but I'm curious about something. What made you decide on a 20" height? (I'm guessing you've made some calculations based on the radiated heat of the bulb vs the melting point of styrene). Is the lining material Dynamat?

You are indeed one fortunate man. You not only scored a nice, complete kit for $5.00, you may also have found the last MRC wheel & tire set in the entire US. It's hard to believe that set wasn't snapped up ages ago, since MRC hasn't made them in over a decade. This should be a fun and interesting project to watch!

Here's someone who had a terrible nightmare!

Gunze-Sangyo (Mr Color) made several acrylic paint shades that I really liked, but they withdrew all their aqueous acrylics from the US a couple years ago. At the time Gosfords Hobbies in NSW was carrying the entire line, so I was able to stock up on all my favorites. The paint was very reasonably priced, as was the shipping to the US. (Just checked - they're no longer carrying them )

Capturing the right sheen for a given surface is essential for a realistic appearance. Steve, your work here just goes to show how much a well done interior can enhance the appearance of a model. Couple questions: 1) What's the secret to making the piping adhere to the seat without messing up the paint? 2) What paint did you use on the dash?