Monty

Tamiya's transparent green acrylic is X-25. From what I can see, X-5 and X-15 are very close matches for the greens along the bottom of the car. http://www.hobbylinc...str_s=green&p=2 X-5 and X-15 are also available in two different sizes, depending on how much you think you'll need.

Terrible choice of words on my part. In all actuality, I'm the furthest thing from that type of person you'll ever meet. I should've just told Cato I wasn't intentionally trying to whizz all over his thread. That said, I know you currently only use real HOK paints, but do you recall ever using any clear that worked well over enamels and lacquers? And Pauly Shore should apologize to the universe just for being Pauly Shore.

Bryan, thanks for letting us know about the spray adhesive method. My attempts at using paint or white glue haven't been satisfactory.

There's a guy on another forum I belong to who says he checks his local Goodwill store every week. Don't expect miracles, but he's come across some nice stuff at dirt cheap prices.

Didn't mean to harsh your buzz, I just assumed that this was common knowledge by now. I happened to learn about it over a decade ago when my local hobby shop offered bottles of Testors "clear" for airbrushers. That stuff looked like the amber fluid you find prehistoric bugs trapped in, and I recall feeling disappointed that a company like Testors couldn't do better. Future has a number of adherents on here as well as the occasional detractor. Sounds like it's tricky to airbrush and I can't fathom trying to put it on with a brush, but several others have learned to apply it perfectly. I'll see if I can't track down the name of the Hobby Lobby stuff that's supposed to be very clear and work with any paint.

Sounds interesting. Got any pics of this we can see?

No offense, but this isn't exactly breaking news. Testors' original (lacquer) clear was known for making white paint look more like ivory, and apparently they haven't improved anything since. With a little bit of searching you should be able to find some threads about which clears work best over various paints. One of our now-banned members had a post a couple years ago regarding some kind of clear he'd found at Hobby Lobby that allegedly worked over overything, but unfortunately banned members' posts disappear when they do.

IIRC, the MM stuff was supposed to be an upgrade over the regular line by offering a wider range of colors with better, more finely ground pigments. For the most part, I've been very happy with the paints I've purchased. It's just too bad Testors will never get away from those worthless nozzles on their rattle cans. Oh well, that's why I have an airbrush.

Hmmm, I've been a member here since 2007 but the items in My Content stop at Dec 2011...just sayin'.

The majority of the threads & pictures found in mine are there because they contain modeling information I want to keep on hand for the future, but it looks like entries stored in there disappear after a year. I know it wasn't meant to be a permanent storage device, but I'm not terribly computer savvy and I'd hate to lose the pics and links. Suggestions?

Here's a thread I started on this subject several months ago. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=61895&hl=%2Bvinyl+%2Btop+%2Bmethod Some of the same ideas were brought up in your thread, but the method Cruz uses in mine was not. Keep in mind that all of these methods are being suggested by experienced modelers who've been doing them for some time, so there's really not a lot of risk involved if you follow their directions. Once you look them over, it'll pretty much come down to what you're most comfortable trying to do.

Bill, is there any reason to be concerned about Future filling in things like door and trunk lines? I've never used it, but it seems like it'd be much thicker than clear paint. Just curious.

Wow, talk about an honor and a pleasant surprise! We haven't seen much of you on here lately, so thanks for your input. When I saw what you accomplished on the Mustang dash using these paints, I knew I had to find out more. I look forward to seeing more of your work!

My thanks to Ed M. and Bill B. for filling me in on these paints. They seem to have a ton of potential for modelers.

That's one of the neat aspects. When the sun's behind you and there's enough space ahead of you on the road, your car casts sort of a Batman shadow. (I can't seem to find a pic to explain this better).

I went back and looked at the picture in the article that shows the paints Bob used. The lighter color, which I assume he used for the dash trim etc, is Citadel's "Chainmail" paint. Other Citadel paints,especially skin tones etc, seem to require certain colored primers and multiple applications in thin layers. Any idea if this Chainmail paint can be used without jumping through those hoops? Also, I forgot to look - are these water-based or do I need a specific thinner to clean my brushes? TIA for any helpful info you can provide.

Nice paint and assembly work on that car, Marcus. I hope we'll get to see more of your builds soon.

The other leading model magazine recently featured a Mustang build by Bob Downie in which he used Citadel metal-replicating paints to detail parts of the kit's dash etc. They're acrylics, but he said if they're reduced with Future, they flow out nicely (the article's pictures certainly corroborate his story). Anyone know which specific metal-replicating paint(s) he used? I took a brief look at some of the Citadel stuff online and almost everything I saw was fantasy creature-related, and I don't want to buy multi-packs of paint just to get the few I want. Have any of you had any experience with these paints?

Ray, how can you call this finished when the tires still need lettering? Glad to see you got it done! Just out of curiosity, what did you think of the parts fit/kit design. Any tricky parts?

This is indeed disappointing, as I had just found out about them via some posts on this board. When I went to their site, I found a very good deal on a Corvette kit (body painted - salvageable, everything else untouched) and they were nice to deal with. I didn't get the chance to know anybody associated with the business, but like others have said, I wish them well in all their future endeavors.

Here's a thread from this very forum! http://www.modelcars...showtopic=31062 And here's one from another forum http://cs.finescale....8/t/140739.aspx If you're wondering, yes you can use lacquer thinner for reducing as well as cleaning your 'brush. Several years ago, Scale Auto did a fairly in depth feature on acrylics using paints from Tamiya, Testors, Gunze Sangyo and... I can't recall the fourth one. If memory serves, the Tamiya paint produced a very nice finish but took quite a while to dry. I haven't tried it yet, but I've heard Gunze Sangyo's Mr Leveler may help with that. HTH!

Jason, your Ferrari looks fantastic in light gunmetal, and the red/black interior was an excellent choice as well. The only thing I saw that I wasn't crazy about was Hasegawa's molded spark plug wires. (Just a personal thing, not a reflection on your build). We don't see nearly enough Hasegawa kits on here. Thanks for showing this one.

Looks like ya figured out which way to point the nozzle, so that's a plus. Actually, from what I can see, your paint turned out pretty nice.

It shares a couple things in common with the Spoiler 'Vette, as both are molded in yellow & represent '80-'82 Corvettes, but Ray's is a 1/20 scale kit by Monogram.

Ben nails another factory stock Mopar build!