Monty

Drivers of "sleepers" are pink slip keepers! The unwary may not notice that 427 fender badge till it's too late! Nice subtle build. What did you use for the hard lines? What did you use to bend them like that?

Steve, it seems everyone likes the colors you used on your '57. Would you mind telling us which paints you used? PS I don't know if you've done much on the grille yet, but detailing it and the hubcaps can really make one of these models pop. Use Google images to find reference pictures. Hope to see more of your projects soon!

I'm going to have to concur with the rest of these guys in regard to the color you mixed up for this build - it's fantastic. The engine bay looks sharp, and the work you did to correct the stance paid off. Nicely done!

There doesn't seem to be much information on the car or its builder out there. (I'm a little disappointed in myself for not even knowing about this car, since I'm a huge C3 fan) It's a customized '73, and IMNSHO, much more tastefully done than any of the rolling turds in Corvette Summer, although the Shelby-esque C-pillar scoop is questionable. The tail lights are shaped somewhat like a Datsun 240Z's, but lack the orange and white lenses. The wheels are most likely polished aluminum 5-slots. Most American aftermarket wheel mfrs offered a variation of this wheel back then. Your best bet at replicating the big/small look might be the wheels and tires from Monogram's Early Iron series. If memory serves, some of our resin casters offer copies of the Monogram wheels & possibly the tires. I'm sure you've already thought of this, but the AMT Eckler's Corvette could be a great starting point for the plexiglass-enclosed headlight buckets.

You pretty much nailed it when you referred to it as a candy color. So what's the best solution? Shoot it over a brass metalizer?

When the paint first came out, I was happy to have a fairly accurate hue for detailing turn ignals, but I also thought it had potential as a color for model bodies. In my early attempts at using it, however, I found it lacked for coverage over bare white styrene, and shooting it over silver seemed to kill off the color I wanted. (I never got around to shooting it over gold). The idea of using it popped back into my mind again the other day when considering paint colors for another project, but I need a way to make it look like it does in the bottle. If you've used this paint as the main color on one of your biulds, I'd appreciate pics and a brief explanation as to how you made it work.

You actually have a few choices. On the cheap side, I've heard of people using Windex, 70% rubbing alcohol or distilled water. Tamiya has a thinner that works well with their line of acrylics, but I haven't tried it with other brands. I assume Testors has something similar. Last, believe it or not, you can use lacquer thinner. I've read that acrylics can harden on the inside of an airbrush, so take whatever measures are necessary to clean it completely after using it.

Great stance, nice paint, accurate weathering and tons of other details including the improvised side window treatment - absolutely spectacular work. I would've never thought to use baby moons on a rocketbird, but obviously they work! Another talented builder to learn from...

As much of a tightwad as I am, I wouldn't mind paying a little more for better sidewall lettering, but as others have said, how 'bout something besides Goodyear tires, especially for street machines? Imagine AMT taking advantage of the lower licensing costs and creating some correct Firestone Wide Ovals or Revellogram cranking out some Uniroyal Tiger Paws.

I agree, painting by hand is truly an art and your work is phenomenal. A definite mush-see! In a more serious vein, our new friend Eero also did this one, which I thought was impressive. (Go to his link to see more pics of this - great work!) Eero, can you explain the orange at the leading edge of the vent windows?

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Well, now that I've read your suggestions and perused all the threads that you recommended, I'd have to say that my questions been more than adequately answered. This won't exactly come as a shock to those of you who responded to my question, but we have some amazingly talented craftsmen on this board. .

No, but since I missed it the first time around, I'm glad you posted the link. Brian's an incredible builder, isn't he?

I swear I saw a mini tutorial on this somewhere, but I can't seem to dig it up. Anyway, the plan is to use some nice scale planking to create an effect like this. I assume I can buy the wood through Micro-Mark, but having never worked much with wood (especially in this scale) what else might I need to pull this off? What should I use for the metal "ribs"?

I have to agree with this. While I hate that it ever got broken to begin with, it doesn't appear that you'll have to do anything more than reglue the various subassemblies to restore it to pre-drop condition. As regards your plans to change wheels etc, I hope you'll reconsider. This was an excellent rendition of the 1:1 car, and IMNSHO deserves to stay that way. Anyone can slap Cragars on a kit. Nailing a showroom stock look is a whole 'nother matter. Kudos on your composure. Sounds like you're dealing with it better than I used to.

A build like this deserves those accolades - enjoy 'em! I hope it inspires more Nomad and Nomino (?) projects.

Hmmm, any interest in shooting some pics of your dad's build as it progresses? Maybe a mini-tutorial regarding the new cab piece?

Yes. AMT provides a piece that you graft in as the back half of the cab/front part of the "truck" bed. In the two previous versions of this kit that I've had (decades ago) that piece was ribbed on top, so expect to do some serious sanding to get a smooth roof like Bruce did. Jantrix, I hope Bruce answers your question 'cuz I'm interested too. I haven't attempted this conversion, but it looks like all it would take is some precision cutting in order to pull it off.

Posts 15 & 25 suggest otherwise...

You should get an email with a tracking # and a link to UPS. It'll tell you when you can expect delivery.

I wonder if either AMT or Johan ever considered tooling up a Mark III. When I was younger, I had a middle-aged couple on my paper route who were fairly well-to-do. One day when I came by to collect, the garage door happened to be open & I noticed that they had an Eldorado similar to Ron's & a Lincoln that looked a lot like this one. I remember thinking how nice it would be to get to choose which of those cars you're going to drive that day.

I swear I can her Jim Croce's Bad,Bad Leroy Brown coming from that car.I liked your ice blue Eldorado, but this one is stunning. Any interior, engine or chassis pics?

I ran into this a several months ago when I decided to build a replica of a Cutlass ragtop a friend's girlfriend had once owned. I already had the kit with the W-30 hood and didn't want to buy another kit, so I submitted the question to the Spotlight Hobbies board. Long story short, Kevin from the Missing Link / MAD / Motor City casting consortium contacted me to say said he offers one that is a perfect fit. If you've ever purchased anything from them, you already know that you'll be receiving a top-notch piece. Try posting this question in the Resin section. I'm sure those guys will have his most current contact information. In my situation, another modeler had contacted me before Kevin did and asked if I would do a direct swap for his non-W-30 Revell hood, which is what I ended up doing.

I used Martinfan5's free shipping link and ordered several new Testors paints late last Friday night. They all arrived about an hour ago today.

It's an old tool, but it has several features that I thought were neat touches: poseable steering, front height adjustable via kingpin placement, & IIRC, the tailgate swings down. I normally don't even bother with the "custom" body pieces on most old AMT kits because I think they're garish, but the custom grille on this is subtle yet effective. OTOH, the engine looks slightly small (don't know if it actually is or not) and the chassis has a single, molded-in exhaust. If you're building the drag racer or a serious street car, you'll want to find a way to carefully remove that.