Monty

Mark has been known to make his own parts when kit parts are missing or unsatisfactory.

From post # 41: I use talc (baby powder) for the texturing. I add it to the paint and spray. The more talc, the coarser the texture. And it makes the shop smell lilac fresh... with just a hint of lacquer.

Strange that Monogram would bother to tool up a smog air pump for this but ignore the 2-1-2 exhaust configuration (dual exhaust from the engine merges at a single cat and re-emerges into dual pipes ). The battery issue is mystifying too, as C3 ('68-'82) batteries were in the compartment immediately behind the driver's seat. The vinyl rings are an ingenious solution to making the wheels fully accurate. It's almost impossible to achieve the correct look with paint. All my sources show the black centers are correct for this car. Can't wait to see your installments on paint!

This is the part I've been waiting to see. Can you elaborate a little on your masking technique? Looks like you're using 3M fineline tape.

Outstanding work, Daniel!

Did the kit come with gauge decals or did you make your own?

A quick search of ebay shows that ESCI, Entex and MPC(!) also offered variants of the Miura. If for some reason I couldn't find the Hasegawa, would any of these be roughly similar in quality?

Fantastic color combo! As several others have said, more pics would be great.

Wow, the obliviousness on this board runs deep.

Go back to page 1 and look at when the OP posted this. Then look at his profile to see the last time he was even on this board. Call me crazy, but I don't see the point of posting positive comments for someone who will likely never see them.

Yes, but they're "recyclable" (biodegradable).

I'll admit I thought you fabbed up the brackets for the alternator and the air pump since I couldn't imagine your mind allowing the existence of unsupported items as seen on most AMT/MPC engines. It just seems strange that Monogram would include that kind of detail & then do such a mediocre job on the manifold, which reminds me of Trumpeter's piece for the Falcon engine. I also wondered if you had replaced the belts with something better. Did you just thin them from underneath?

Guys, while I agree that the builder did a great job on this Mustang, he hasn't even been on this board since September 2009. You're wasting your time leaving comments.

OK, you and slantasaurus have solved the "what" issue. Now, can you explain why Ford would go to the trouble of painting the front cover with red oxide primer while the rest of the axle is painted black?

I've noticed that a good percentage of modelers who build Fords with the 9" rear end paint the axle and differential housing in a semi-gloss black, while the front cover that accepts the driveshaft is usually done in a rusty brown. Is that done to depict nodular iron with surface rust? Why wouldn't that piece be the same color as the rest of the axle assembly?

Ask the owner directly scalefinishes@gmail.com.

I'm enjoying watching this take shape. Quick question: did you remove the marker lights yourself or did Monogram tool it up that way? I can't wait to see your technique for masking off the wheel arches.

This is a neat shade of red. What paint did you use on this?

If memory serves, 27001 is meant to replicate aluminum and 27002 is supposed to look like polished aluminum. Which one did you spray? Was it your intent to give the car a bare metal look (bodies were actually steel) or were you trying to attain a certain shade of silver? I'd say it would probably be best if you found out how much set-up time this paint requires, then follow Carl's advice and polish it out with a soft cloth. I've airbrushed regular Humbrol enamels but nothing from the Metalcote line. Do they spray well?

Can you explain what the appeal is? In the real world, that'll eat a tire in a heartbeat.

That's just such an eye-grabbing shade of red; I can't believe how nicely it flowed out. If you were able to achieve this kind of finish without using a polishing kit or clear coat, I'm buying some of this stuff and reducing it for airbrush use.

Looks like Monogram put a little more effort into their '78 than MPC did. Dashtop and windshield wiper tray are far more accurate, and Monogram even took the trouble to show the roll-up cover tarp in its retracted form. Internet pics of builds also indicate that this kit features the more powerful L-82 engine, as opposed to MPC's base L-48. I can't wait to see how you do the mirrored t-tops. Hint: for accuracy's sake, you'll need to show that they leak profusely in heavy rain....but I'm not bitter.

Would you mind listing, say, four specific cars you think would be a "hit" if the model companies would just step up and take the risk? (I'm not trying to be provocative, I just want to see where you're going).

Wow, I've read so many negative things about using Rustoleum for painting models, then you come in here and stomp all over that line of thinking by topping off a great build with an incredibly nice paint job.

I've died and gone to Heaven - Mark's gonna do one of the later C3s! Popcorn and notepad are in place and I've clicked the appropriate button so I can follow this thread.