Fat Brian

You could run both of the IH 800 motors from the two kits it took to get you where you are now. I love the wheels, I would like some for a Titan 90 I'm planning

Steve, you bring up a good point, the definition of art is so broad that it's impossible for it not to be art. Art is anything that exists only for it's own sake, that has no purpose other than to be what it is. Whether we enjoy it or not does not deminish it's artness.

What an inspired build, not only do the mechanical details appear plausable, the styling has a very cool art deco feel.

If you don't mind chanding the front suspension some you could remove the shock towers from the inner fenders of the Fairlane and either move the front tires a little further out or change to a torsion bar type front end. The 68 GT 500 kit is so awful chassis wise I wouldn't put it in anything.

These parts were used under various Chevy trucks up until the early eighties when they switched to the GM 10 bolt front axle and NP 208 tranfer case. I agree that while the engine may not be needed having the correctmanifolds, transmission, transfer case, and axle would be nice. As for the frame in the 67-72 trucks, a better chassis could be made from the 60 Chevy truck, they shared rear end designs so with a little scratch work it probably could be done.

Those are what I'm looking for. I'm planning pretty much what you did, a 6x6 prime mover. I might put a crane or something on the back, I'm starting with the DM mixer kit so I have a about a foot of frame behind the cab to play with and I can always shorten it a bit too.

I will drop him a line and see what the diameter of those are, they look pretty close to what I'm looking for.

I guess you should contact one of the mods, it worked for me.

I scored a DM800 recently and I'm thinking about doing an offroad heavy haul/prime mover kind of thing with it. I want some tires that will somewhat fill up the front wheelwells, maybe tires from a loader or something probably about two inches tall or so. Does anyone know where I can find such a thing?

It's safer for resin, you may want to test a piece before dunking the whole body as some resins react differently than others.

I could get behind a new model A kit, they do have a different look from the 32s. They are easier to chop and the visor over the windsheild gives them a certain edge.

Yep, Super Clean is a clear, semi luminescent purple. Think purple antifreeze. It does well for most enamels and acrylics but it has trouble with some laquers, especially the hotter ones.

That is an incredible build.

The Lindberg 34 Ford wrecker has those wheels in it and it's currently in production so it's easy to find.

I got there at 2 o'clock just as everyone was packing up but I still scored some nice built ups and met a few people. I hope to get there earlier next year so I can see some of the contest builds up close.

I do agree that when I really detail something I try to make it look like the real thing. To me it's a waste of my effort to add details that, if real, would detract from the functionality of the vehicle. I try hard not to judge others by my standards for myself but sometimes modifications that are clearly unworkable do bother me.

The Ferarri FXX has the same arrangement. Ferarri will ship it to just about any track you want and crew it for you but you can't take it home.

It looks like a W900 A needle nose that has had the B lights added like a late eighthties Mexican A. W900A needle nose Mexico production W900A with B lights

Crazy people don't know their crazy, that's why they act like they do. They think of themselves as quite normal.

Wow, those guys are crazy. It's one thing to race on a track but to go 170 through two lane streets and between houses is just insane.

Dang if that ain't weird looking.

We have to find the Martian Indians first.

I guess it depends on what mods you want to make, if you want to use a Revell kit the first two are the ones to use. The snap kit has a different cab that isn't correct. I believe that the 353 thats out now also has the 359 round fenders in it but you should try to find out for sure. You would still have to lengthen the hood a quarter of an inch and fix the aircleaner piping among other things.

But there are poor builders in every area of the car hobby not just rats. There are plenty of guys that "restore" there cars with incorrect engines and wheels and finish it off with a Maaco paint job but their poor effort don't detract from the actual concours correct cars out there. No one is claiming that all rats are the paragons of automotive perfection and safelty but don't judge them all by the bad ones.

There are other changes that make a 359 to 379 conversion a challenge, the firewall is wider on the 379 and I believe the doors are different not to mention aircleaner piping is routed through the cab instead of notching the rear of the hood like a Kenworth. I would start with an Italeri 378 and either buy a long hood 379 conversion or build it yourself. Since it looks like it will be a while before I post a how to on getting the hood right I will post the measurements here for you. I have always wanted to get the perfectly flat hood top as seen on most 379 Petes and no kit or conversion has gotten it completely right so I paid a visit to my local Peterbilt dealership. Cruising around the service center I found what I needed, a 359, a 378, and many 379s. First I measured the grill on the 359, it is 50 inches wide and 45 inches tall. Then the 379, it is 50 inches wide and 46 inches tall. And the 378, it was 50 inches wide and 41 inches tall. This is why using the 378 grill doesn't get you where you want to be, it's too short to make the hood flat. According to our resident Pete expert the 378 cab also sits 3 inches higher on the frame than a 379. What you need to do is make the 378 grill taller by a little more than an eighth of an inch then cut off the top of the hood and raise and rework it to fit. Ideally you would make the hood flat on top and then lower the cab and sleeper to make it match the new hood since it's too high to be correct for a 379 anyway. The Italeri 378 cab sits on small raised tabs that are about 3/16 tall so you have some room to bring it down a bit. It will take some test fitting but the results should be worth it if you are as insane about getting the correct hood pitch that I am.