Fat Brian

You have to fill out a requisition form, just cross out pizza oven and write coffee mug.

I have my account verified and will do the same for hers, I was just wondering if you can still do things like Buy it Now and take instant payments with a basic account.

I know this isn't about models but I figure there should be someone here who would be able to point me in the right direction. My wife wants to set up an account and begin selling on ebay. Right now I have the basic Paypal account that I use to buy things on ebay and I've paid for some other things with money transfers. Will she need a premium account to be able to receive payments from ebay or can she function as a seller with a basic account?

I have both and while the scale discrepancy is a bit irksome I don't let it stop me from buying a kit due to it. Personally, I wish everything was 1/24th just to have a little extra room for my fat fingers and for more detailing.

I think the tires from the Orange Crate reissue would look right for those, they appear to be 8 inch slicks.

I dropped a Franklin on it by the time you add shipping but to get one new still in the cellophane that is about the going rate, it's still the cheapest of the available K100 kits. The heart wants what the heart wants...

I would IF they retool new tires with sidewall lettering. The tires they have used for the past 30 years look like garbage anyway so I replace them letters or not now.

They don't look terribly heavy duty, your best bet may be to scratch them. You might could start with the AMT Fruehauf flat bed to have some suspension to rob and a start on the decking. One of the resin casters does a dolly but I can't think of who at the moment.

I have a hard time building old kits because I want each build to be up to modern standards of modeling, most of my stalled builds are old kits I'm trying to update with newer chassis and things. I just can't seem to leave them alone so each one turns into this huge ordeal.

The reason the carbs seem far back is that the SOHC motor used standard 427 intakes but was about six inches longer in the front due to the timing cover. The upper radiator hose in the picture hits the same place on the regular 427 and SOHC but on the cammer it's buried behind the front cover.

For a still sealed one you did mighty good, that's a $70+ kit easy on ebay.

In doing a quick google image search it seems that there are various plow designs for both tilt and butterfly hoods. Older ones do tend to be more geared to butterfly hoods but there seem to be exceptions.

The 427 SOHC motor was kitted quite a few times. The most accurate versions are in the AMT 66 Galaxie kit and the 33 Willys van and coupe kits. It was also in the AMT 68 GT 500 Shelby Mustang but the valve covers are not 100% correct in that kit. Here is some Ford history to better make sense of engine sizes. In the mid fifties Ford introduced the FE engine family, this is a 90 degree v8 where the intake manifold also forms the back of the heads and is trapped under the valve covers. By the mid sixties you could have the FE as a 390 in a T-bird or Galaxie, later the 390 was put in GT Fairlanes and Comets and Mustangs. It was also stroked to make the 428CJ and SCJ engines. The 427 was based on the FE design but has it's own block, external parts are interchanable but the engines internals are 427 only due to its bigger bore and shorter stroke. The SOHC motor was designed to use existing 427 blocks, a blank cam is still run in its normal position to turn the distributor, oil pump, and fuel pump, but valve operation is done in the new heads by a single cam on each side which is driven by a chain under the huge new front timing cover. The 429 belongs to a different engine family, the 385 series, and shares no parts with the 390/428 or 427 engines. Here is a look at how the timing chains run Here is a pic that shows the correct valve covers

You can also check out the guys at http://www.ppvintagekits.com/index.html, http://www.stsmodeltrucks.com/cart.html, http://www.auslowe.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=frontpage&Itemid=1, http://www.aitruckmodels.com/pages/kitsparts.html All of these places have good stuff, you can also find some stuff on ebay.

Now that's an add I want to see!

I use one kind of like this. I keep a knife, files, various sanding implements, my glues, paint brushes and paint, and whatever else I have found useful.

Thats what I get for skimming.

I have never used a straight edge for long BMF runs, a brand new very sharp blade will follow creases just fine.

I think you are on the right track putting a styrene strip on the inside of the body to form a kind of door sill and body brace. I believe you can find piano style hinges from the Model Car Garage.

It depends on whats wrong with it and how easy it is to replace. If I've hacked up a kit beyond all repair and I'm not happy with it then it's off to the store to pick up another patient. On the other hand, if it's a rare kit and I'm not happy with the direction of things I fix it if I can or put it aside until I figure out what to do.

You could run both of the IH 800 motors from the two kits it took to get you where you are now. I love the wheels, I would like some for a Titan 90 I'm planning

Steve, you bring up a good point, the definition of art is so broad that it's impossible for it not to be art. Art is anything that exists only for it's own sake, that has no purpose other than to be what it is. Whether we enjoy it or not does not deminish it's artness.

What an inspired build, not only do the mechanical details appear plausable, the styling has a very cool art deco feel.

If you don't mind chanding the front suspension some you could remove the shock towers from the inner fenders of the Fairlane and either move the front tires a little further out or change to a torsion bar type front end. The 68 GT 500 kit is so awful chassis wise I wouldn't put it in anything.