Fat Brian

You will probably have to go with an automotive paint like Duplicolor for the body, I haven't seen a model color close to that. It kind of looks like Pontiac medium blue but I won't swear to it. As for the engine color, check the third pic down on this link. It looks like Pontiac baby blue on the engines. http://onlycarsandcars.blogspot.com/2011/06/challenger-1-bonneville-streamliner-by.html Here is some medium Pontiac blue

Clear kit plastic is so brittle it's almost impossible to reshape. Depending on what kit it is you can either try to find something that fits from a similar kit or makr your own out of clear sheet plastic. If you make your own you can shape a piece of paper until it fits and then cut it out of plastic. Maybe you could post in the wanted section and see if someone has what you need.

I have to agree, the one coat laquers have a very large flake in them and are very nice to paint with. One word of caution, you should test the paint on some spare plastic to check it's coverage. Most of the colors I've used have been on the thin side and need either an undercoat or many thin coats to build to a nice color.

Since you are not using the dual exhaust can you use a piece if it to make the cross over? Just heat it slightly and bend it to shape.

Define "modern" chevy big block. Are you looking for a new version of the 396/402/427/454 engine or a new engine like new LS motors?

One of the reasons Detroit 2 strokes leak so profusely is that the block is pressurized due to how the engine works. It's not much, probably never more than a few psi but it's enough, especially back in the day with old gasket technology.

I saw what happened, someone was running their mouth about how you were rebuilding the frame for your truck. If anyone should be apologizing it should them for how they treated you. Be proud you took the high road though, that was very classy of you.

I will let you know, I'm going to try to work as much as I can between now and then so I have a little fun money.

I see what you mean, only dividing the weight by 25 would be like only dividing the width of the 1:1 car by 25 but leaving it 1:1 length and height. A three dimensional object scales in all three dimensions so weight must be scaled in all three as well.

I don't know, I went to the Clemmons show and right after my wifes car broke down and the week after the foothills show one of her favorite bands is coming to Charlotte so I might have to go their instead. I'll see, I'm supposed to be getting some overtime soon and may have some spare cash.

Here are a few shots to get an idea of what you need, I think most guys use Tamiya Deck Tan.

You might could take a piece of photoetch sprue and file on it with a very tiny file while holding it with tweezers. You have to think, it will only be about a 1/16 of an inch long so get your jewelers loupe out.

I think one of the reasons that licensing has tightened up is that China blatantly rips off everything worth copying. If a company doesn't defend it's copyrights against even small infringements when a really big issue arises they could be said to have allowed their copyright to lapse based on them no longer defending it. It's just an unfortunate fact of doing business today.

Two of the worst, most disappointing kits I've ever bought were the recent reissue of AMTs old 69 Daytona kit and their 55 Corvette. Those two wastes of plastic should have never seen the light of day again.

I found something that says it's September 22 in Morganton NC. http://www.hamptonro...ar_20120722.pdf Here is a link to a flier I found. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=7&ved=0CFEQFjAG&url=http%3A%2F%2Fipmseaglesquadron.org%2FES-forums%2Findex.php%3Faction%3Ddlattach%3Btopic%3D996.0%3Battach%3D1004&ei=nHhFULKwL4Sc9QTCjoHwAg&usg=AFQjCNGyo3Jb2owaz5VJdtaMdkmHb2qFIw

Since you want to build a tubbed chassis car next I would suggest to you Revells excellent 67 Chevelle prostreet kit. This kit practically falls together with the on fiddly bits being the rear end assembly but it's not too bad. You could also probably still find AMTs prostreet 70 Coronet fairly easy since it was out recently too. If you are looking for something more race than street Revell has recently had a 55 sportsman kit out also.

Check out all the stuff available at these sites: http://www.ppvintagekits.com/index.html http://www.auslowe.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=frontpage&Itemid=1 http://www.freewebs.com/mmtaer/truckparts.htm http://www.aitruckmodels.com/pages/kitsparts.html

I just want to point out that there is nothing wrong with using the Hobby Lobby coupon. The kit manufacturer still gets their regular wholesale price for the kit and evidently Hobby Lobby gets enough to make it worth their while or they wouldn't keep making them.

The best place to find sanding implements is a local beauty supply store. Pick up nail files in various grits, shapes, and sizes on the cheap, twenty dollars should get you a wide assorment.

At least you would never run out of room in the Tardis.

No, there doesn't have to be drying time between coats but there can be. Number of coats doesn't really matter as long as you have good even coverage and a smooth surface. The only time number of coats comes in to play is in candy colors but the actual number isn't nearly as important as getting to the color depth you want. Another thing to consider is whether you paint with an airbrush or a rattle can. Cans are like a firehose of paint and put down much heavier coats than an airbrush, what may take four or five airbrush coats may take two with a can. The most important thing is to come up with a style of painting that works best for the type of paint you like to use.

I had got some two holes off of ebay a few months ago but the still aren't here so I'm looking for some other options.

I hold the jar with an adjustable wrench if it's a squarish shape so I don't bear on it while turning the lid with pliers or channel locks.

Do those wheels fit other 1/25 tires?

I consider it a new coat everytime I let the paint flash and then paint again.