Fat Brian

I'm looking at converting the AMT 53 F100 can into an F500. It looks like the only change is to open the front wheel wells a little more. Has anyone done this or does anyone have any info about what needs to be done to make the conversion correct?

I don't think so, I believe I heard that they messed up the molds to make the B model. It's a shame since the A model has that cool air ride rear.

There are different definitions of "pro" depending on what you mean. In the days before CAD and 3d animation a friend of mine worked on cooling systems for nuclear power plants and built models of the finished systems to illustrate how the system was layed out. He built these industrial models for a job, he was a professional model builder. He also built model kits in his off time as a hobby. While his hobby kits were nice the builds he was proudest of were all of the scratchbuilt power plants he built at work. On the hobby side "pro" usually means people pay you for your biulds. It is used very loosely, there is no application process to be allowed to use the term and no one checks behind you if you do.

I have used the Detail Master kit quite a few times. They are fiddly to build but look really nice when completed, they have been around for a long time and when they came out were probably the nicest piece out there but the MAD units look great and are super easy to use.

I did combine the 71 Road Runner/Superbird kit with the new 71 Charger, it fits like a glove. All you have to do is cut the inner fenders out of the Charger body and use some Evergreen to fit them to the Road Runner body. I'm not done but the conversion is pretty easy.

Tom, I just don't really know what to say sometimes. I can't imagine losing my entire collection, much less the rest of my house, that is so far beyond anything I have ever experienced I don't feel like I have any advice that is applicable. That being said, I do hope everything gets settled so you can get back to a bench as soon as possible.

The engines in the link I posted do run, even a micro jet engine for remote control planes.

Every time I see this it's still amazing, check out these other miniature engines here http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/KnappCol.htm

That guy builds some great stuff. The Cummins motor for the Ford kit and a 52 Kenworth cab are on ebay also.

For the trailer you might could start with the IMC tanker Lindberg reissued and add the side ribs and skirts. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lindberg-1966-Dodge-L-700-cab-with-Tanker-Skelly-model-kit-1-24-/221116226624?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337b8ddc40

Well, at least it's free.

In all seriousness though, it boils down to what you like and want to build. I would start with current issue kits and recently out of production stuff, these can be had the cheapest through store sales or online shopping. For older stuff, once you find something you want get familiar with the going price for it, you can do a search for completed auctions on ebay to see what other similar kits have sold for. That way, when you see one up for bid or as a buy it now you will know whether it is a good price or not. Also, look for model cars show and even 1:1 car shows that have a model area in your area so you can cruise swap meets. Very good deals can be had from people who might not know exactly what the have or vendors at closing time who are trying to make a few quick sales before packing everything back up.

You do have a point, better the addict know he is responsible for his fate rather than upon reaching his fate wonder whose hand delivered it.

The thing about a stash is, you don't intend to get one. I just kind of happens, I call it stash creep, where the kits you aren't working multiply and multiply while you aren't looking. This is not to be confused with a "creep 'stash", see below:

The problem with hot trucks has always been that there isn't any weight over the drive wheels so GM went with AWD to get the most performance out of the truck.

It really just depends on the truck and trailer, sometimes it works and sometimes it looks off.

Check the link, this is what the impala kit looks like and there is also a pic of the engine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMT-67-Impala-Model-Street-Machine-Unopened-Box-/261080716060?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc99f931c

Very true, if you can get a windsheild, even a bad one, you can fix it enough to make a heat formed copy of it.

The Revell 32 Tudor I believe has a good one, the Revell 50 Ford truck has a good one also and the custom version has chrome heads and optional Ardun heads. I would probably stick with those two as they have some custom parts, the others are completely stock I believe.

Just heat it up a little, most people use a candle. Since you don't need a very tight bend it won't take much heat, just enough to keep it from splitting. Practice on some sprue to kind of get the feel for where the melt point it so you don't waste the thin exhaust pipe. Evergreen is great to have but for such a small job you should be able to get by without it here.

I hope they are paying for the trip, that's a long way.

You will probably have to go with an automotive paint like Duplicolor for the body, I haven't seen a model color close to that. It kind of looks like Pontiac medium blue but I won't swear to it. As for the engine color, check the third pic down on this link. It looks like Pontiac baby blue on the engines. http://onlycarsandcars.blogspot.com/2011/06/challenger-1-bonneville-streamliner-by.html Here is some medium Pontiac blue

Clear kit plastic is so brittle it's almost impossible to reshape. Depending on what kit it is you can either try to find something that fits from a similar kit or makr your own out of clear sheet plastic. If you make your own you can shape a piece of paper until it fits and then cut it out of plastic. Maybe you could post in the wanted section and see if someone has what you need.

I have to agree, the one coat laquers have a very large flake in them and are very nice to paint with. One word of caution, you should test the paint on some spare plastic to check it's coverage. Most of the colors I've used have been on the thin side and need either an undercoat or many thin coats to build to a nice color.

Since you are not using the dual exhaust can you use a piece if it to make the cross over? Just heat it slightly and bend it to shape.