Fat Brian

I thought you were going to make her do a clean and jerk. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQAEu8FOCHY

Based on Rich's post he might be able to refill the bottle for free. But Greg is right about the cost and the testing requirements of the tanks, unless there are special circumstances like trying to be quiet a compressor will be cheaper in the long run, unless of course you can refill for free.

Those are So Real Customs wheels, they are all over ebay for pretty cheap.

Yep , they aren't terribly common but they are around. They look so good I'm surprised Ford didn't actually bring them into full production.

You should be able to reuse it a few times but I have noticed that it loses it's effectiveness after a while so don't plan on buying once and it lasting forever.

It sounds like you have what you need to get started. I would still use a secondary air brush style regulator with at least a filter but your cylinder should work fine as long as it holds a couple hundred pounds of pressure. It needs to be high enough over your cut pressure to keep a steady regulated pressure as the main tank pressure drops. I apologize if that is confusing, I work with high pressure gas and it makes sense to me but I know what I'm trying to say. Let me say this, once set to a specific downstream pressure most regulators require the upstream pressure to remain constant. If the upstream(tank) pressure drops too far the downstream(air brush) pressure will begin to drop also.

What kind of container will the co2 be in? If it's some little cartidge or can it probably won't be worth it but if you are getting it in a large container with a regulator you might be on to something. I have heard of people who live in apartments and don't want the sound of an air compressor running but still need to air brush using small nitrogen bottles from a welding supply store. The tanks are fairly cheap to refill and last for a good while.

Age isn't anything but a number and it affects each one of us differently. I was a cashier at a grocery store in my teens and it amazed me how some of the customers were whip smart and coherent well into their eighties but others were starting to lose it in their fifties. It's just a genetic roll of the dice really.

Brake fluid isn't necessary for enamels, I would recommend either Purple Power/Castrol Super Clean or even LA's Totally Awesome cleaner. These are more easily disposed of and easier to use, I save brake fluid for patricularly tough stuff like automotive paints or hot laquers. You can reuse it multiple times with just occasional straining through a piece of cloth or even a paper towel.

I see what you mean, the front of the fender is the same but the back is longer to meet the lower running boards. Here is a stock F100, there is about two or three inches between the bottom of the door and the running board. But on the F500/F600 the running boards are almost six or seven inches from the bottom of the door.

There is a guy selling late fifties Big Jobs on ebay, want.

I believe the short hood Petes are 119" from the bumper to the back of the cab and I know the grills are 50" wide. In 1/16 scale the kit grill should measure 3 1/8" wide, hopefully that will give you some insight as to what scale it is.

Now THAT is outside the box!

You will still need to cut it out the way Rob described, the tape keeps the very brittle clear plastic from splintering and will save you some headaches, but if possible you should use clear sheet stock or even a clear two liter soda bottle to make the lowered window.

Out of the box you say? If you were shelving diecast I would say magnetic levitation but you would probably go broke buying superconductors. Since that won't work for plastic maybe David Blaine or Chris Angel could whip something up.

You might want to think about making the drivers side glass out of clear sheet stock for scale thickness reasons, otherwise it might look like your Porsche has bullet proof windows.

I either change subjects like switching to armour or aircraft or I just stop for a while. I play video games or something until a project burrows it's way back in to my consciousness.

You might try contacting member here Lownslow, he had a thread in the resin section of him casting a modern Vette motor and he might be able to hook you up.

The fenders physically interchange but I don't know if the 500/600 unit is longer or not. The silver F500 I posted had it's fenders replaced with F100 pieces and was put on a pickup frame.

No thanks, she's a bit rough lookin' and about 150 pounds too small for me. She looks like she needs a good scrubbin'.

It depends on what kind of custom you are doing, a mild custom with old school wheels like Cragars or baby moons is just right for the 458. A modern custom with big wheels and a flashy color needs the ZR1 motor.

Without having the mag in front of me I have a few questions, are there any pics of the car doing a burnout or taking a pass down a track? It could be that the car started out whistle clean and they got some shots of it, then they decided to get a few action shots which produced the leak, then the photographer decided he needed a few more stationary shots and they shot the car without doing 1000% reclean on it. Should they have rechecked it, of course, is it the worst thing on the cover of Hot Rod, not be a long shot. Remember the $500 Chevette with the 500 Caddy motor? And as for whether to fix leaks or not I guess it depends on what it is and how much it is to fix it. My Cadillac has a half case leak and to fix it requires complete removal of the engine then disassembly of the entire bottom end of the engine, you might as well change the crankshaft bearings while you're in there. The repair costs between $1500 and $2000 on a car with a total value of about $5000, as far as I'm concerned it can leak Jesus comes to get me because it just doesn't make sense to fix it.

The LS-1 came in 97 and up Vettes and 98 or 99 and up Camaros. The most recent kit is a Monogram issue of a Revell 1/25 2002 Camaro, it's plentiful and can be had for cheap.

To make a long hood in 1/24 you add 1/4" to the hood, I think the 1:1 measurement is either 6 or 7 inches. I'm not ready to do any kind of tutorial yet, I still need the sleeper from the long hauler kit before I'm ready to start mine. The grill mods aren't too bad though, the first thing you need to do is sand the top of the 378 grill until the radius of the corner of the top matches the radius of the sides and it's flat on top. Then you need to measure the new height and find out how much you need to add to make the final height 46 inches, it should be about 3/16 to 1/4 inch. I think the best place to cut the grill is below the first bolt head on the vertical portion of the grill sides, you will lose the center bars but you can make new ones or make a custom grill.

That should be right, the difference isn't much, it's barely noticeable unless a person knows what they are looking at.