Fat Brian

Daniel Gallioux casts the dual square lights with the chrome surround, they are about 3 or 4 bucks a pair, using them on this hood would make it a late production Mexican A model.

This may put the kit manufacturers completely out of business but it won't matter because we can do everything they do at home. Instead of buying a kit we will buy a file like from iTunes and print out a copy. If it really catches on I can imagine instead of mailing parts to Chrometech you email them your pieces and they print them, plate them , and mail them back to you. As for clear parts it would be very easy to make and print a model buck of the windows that could be used to vac or heat form them. It will be different but better in so many ways, imagine going to model shows and not seeing the same kits over and over again. You will be able to build whatever you want with as much or as little of the work done in the computer as you like.

You have a car because of a movie but you aren't sure what car is actaully in the movie? That's like having a Wayne's World Pinto, Back to the Future Chevette, or a Mad Max Holden Commodore.

The models will most likely have to be designed for printing since most 3d models don't need to represent material thickness. Models made now are a framework of wires holding micron thick faces that represent a structure. If an attempt was made to print one the parts would be paper thin and far too fragile to work with. Bridging that gap will take reworking most models to represent not only the appreance of the original but also to have enough rigidity to be able to work with it. Here are some basics about 3d models to aid in this discussion somewhat. In the pics below the the views on the upper left, lower left, and lower right all show the wireframe model from a differnt angle. The upper right window shows the model with the faces in place and painted with the texture that will give them their color. Faces make up the surface of the model and the wireframe gives them their shape. Faces do not have any thickness or mass to them. Think about building a cube from the thinnest possible styrene strips and wrapping it in clear plastic wrap, the cube will have a shape but it will be hollow and not have enough density to work with. Another aspect of faces in that they are only visible from one side, if you were to paint the outside of your cube you can clearly see the faces from the outside but if you were inside the cube and the faces behaved like 3d model faces and not plastic wrap the colored faces would be invisible. See how they behave in the pic below showing the inside of the model above. To give the appearance of mass the guys on the site I was modeling trucks for developed what we called "fiberglassing", where we would take the outside model and turn it inside out to create an inside surface and then add it back into the outside model to make a body shell. The pic below illustrates this technique, it now looks like the body has mass or density. It appears to exist in 3d since it has an inside and outside but it would still not be printable because it still doesn't have any thickness, it's basically the front and back of the same sheet of paper. More advanced 3d models and most of what you find available on the web have their interiors built in such a away as to be truly 3d but they still would have the same material thickness issues as the pics above. The models will have to be made with an inside and outside surface and in a way that tells the printer that the area between those surfaces needs to be solid. Newer 3d programs are beginning to have this ability, a lot of this really depends on how the software is programed. Here is an model I made for the inside of a truck cab to give it more depth, some areas are just reversed faces to represent sheet metal and others I built out deeper to give the appearance of interior panels inside the cab.

Now that is a wheel well full of tire.

I'm just asking, there are some young guys here. It honestly sounds like a bunch of mess to me, you might need to just ask someone else.

Are you accident prone or careless? Have you shown an inability to handle power tools in the past? Maybe he doesn't want you to get hurt or mess up his saw. Chainsaws are no joke, even if you know what you are doing they are extremely dangerous. As to whether there is a law or not I can't say but he could be held liable if you hurt yourself or someone else and he gave you the saw, especially if you are under age.

Scott, which W900 is going out, the snap kit or the full build version? Mike, I noticed the same thing when I picked up my 50 Olds, he must be getting ready for some new inventory.

I was wondering that, Olds and Cadillac kind of joint developed the 4.0 quad cam motor that was in the Aurora and later used in Indy racing. Cadillac took it and punched it out to 4.6 liter for the Northstar series. That engine has a lot of design ideas from the Lotus derived motor in the first ZR-1 Corvettes.

Yep, Super Clean does a very good job on enamels and some soft laquers.

Thanks for the heads up on the Series 1 engine, that might be just the ticket. Otherwise I do have some 455s laying around that might get pressed into service with a modern intake plunked on it. I did a little more today, gluing the headlight bezels in getting ready for the frenching. I'm still strategizing the chop and trying to decide if I want to eliminate the B pillar and make it into a psuedo hardtop, maybe reshape the rear window and C pillar a bit.

The most recent Road Runner with the orange car on the box does have the slotted steel wheels and hub caps.

I don't have any idea what to use for power, I would really like to keep the drivetrain Olds but I want a modern motor. I don't want to have to drop a 350 in it just to get some updated parts.

Looks great doc, I love the Sombreros and white walls.

Casey, the pic above has to be for one of the carb 305s, the Crossfire intake looks nothing like that and the later TBI 305s had a single snorkel. The engine in the kit is most likely correct for all years until they stopped using carbs after the 86 model year. Crossfore intake

I had intended to do a mild custom with my first build of the 50 Olds but then the itch hit and I had to cut it up. I had seen years ago a 53/54 Chevy which had had it's rear fenders widened, I was eventually going to try this on an Olds but it happened to day. I cut along the crown of the fenders all the way from the front of the side bulge to the rear bumper, seperating the entire from face of the rear fender. I then added an eighth inch wide strip of square Evergreen and reattached the outer fender. The effect is subtle but hopefully after paint it will stand out a bit more. I have removed all of the side chrome and will start on a chop next, I've never done a chop this complex and I hope I can pull it off without having to get another body. I'm also going to french the headlights and some otherodds and ends. So, without further jawing, here are the pics.

I'm trying to remember the eighties Camaro timeline, my friend had an 86 Z-28 and it had a TPI 305. I believe that the 350 TPI was introduced in 87. In 83 it could either have the 305 Crossfire fuel injection motor or the 305 HO carb motor. The Crossfire was discontinued in 84 and the TPI 305 was introduced in 85 and the 305 HO carb motor was still available. Either motor would be correct since the 305 and 350 are indistinguishable in scale.

I imagine there will be several versions of this kit before too long.

Thats exactly why I bought my SC300, it was cheap and for another few thousand dollars I can have a 400+ horsepower car that I can drive and if it gets wrecked or stolen I'm not totally ruined. You can't see the outside of the car from the inside anyway and fast is fast. While I would love to have an old muscle car I can't right now but I can still have a fast car to play with.

It will have to be DC, 12V 5-10A DC.

Good info, thank you.

You could also swap in the engine from the 86-87 Monte Carlo, the optional engine is the correct Tuned Port V8 for this car.

Yeah, that is a horrible, hateful kit. You are probably right that grinding the cove trim off and replacing it is the best option.

I would imagine they are seperate but have no confirmation.

Yeah, they aren't exactly loved here either but I do have a soft spot for the plywood variety.