Fat Brian

What about the wheels from the Moving Violation Willys and the Austin Gasser, those look similar.

The 66 Mustang that is out now used to have a nice set of those Shelby style wheels in it, I haven't seen that latest issue to see if it still does.

I finally got my drivetrain donor in the mail so I really need to get back on this.

When we can get parts this good in 1/25 scale it will be profitable for someone skilled in CAD to buy one of these machines and print aftermarket parts. When you look at a resin casting business look at how much money and time is tied up in making masters and then making molds. Making a quality mold is an art and you can waste a lot of mold material and resin getting one right an then it wears out and every casting becomes of poorer and poorer quality until it's unusable. I believe that I read here that a good body mold will make about fifty bodies before it has to be retired, no wonder resin parts cost so much. You have a very finite amount of copies to make back your huge time and materieal outlay. A person with this machine could make a model one time and print an infinite amount of copies without diminishing quality over time. The cost of parts made this way could be substantially cheaper than resin, there is almost no investment in the part other than design time and parts only have to be printed when they are bought and paid for.

Yeah, I don't understand this huge push for a 70 Charger, if there was a big market for one Revell would have already done it. I would much rather see a first gen AMX, a good 68 Shelby GT500, a first gen Bronco, a 68 Cutlass, a 67-69 Barracuda, and about a dozen others.

P&P offers resin parts to update the kit to a 2006 and newer model. http://www.ppvintagekits.com/CARS/Resin-Price_list.html

There is a Revell car hauler on ebay right now for $118 with free shipping, watch out for the seller though she is a pain in the butt for sure.

Keep in mind that for a street freak you aren't constrained by NHRA rules, I don't think any of the cars pictured would be legal even in a gasser class because the front ends are too high. The NHRA rulebook limited cars to a height of 24 inches at the centerline of the crankshaft but for a street car get the nose high and rear down and go crazy.

I had that kit saved in watch list but got a Model King DM800 reissue and another AMT K-100 instead, I got pretty good deals on both so I will have to catch the FLD another time.

Here is the thread from the truck section, this will tell you everything we know and will be the best place to find updates. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=64836

The biggest complaint is that the truck on the box is not what is in the box. The box shows a 379 long hood but you get the 378 regular short hood. That being said, it is a nice kit and would accurately replicate an owner/operator rig like the ones on IRT. The 378 can be used for moderatly heavy haul without too many mods to the kit, I see many in my area being used to move offroad equipment or oversize loads. The part that seems to intimidate most builders is the multi piece cab, mine went together well and was really a non issue. One tip is to use the cab floor as a guide to keep the sides straight. It really does fit together pretty well without too much drama.

There isn't a date yet, it was just announced a month or so ago. There may not even be a complete mold yet, we weren't given many specifics.

My company has a fleet of vehicles and in the US the government mandates that if your fleet is over a certain size that a percentage of your vehicles have to use an alternative fuel. Some of the vehicles my company bought were late ninties/early 2000's dual fuel Cavaliers that ran on gasoline and natural gas. The GM natural gas set up was really awful at the time and after a while the regulator would begin leaking gas into the intake and overnight the intake and air filter box would fill up with gas. Every morning when the drivers went to start their cars at least one of the thirty or so cars air intake tubing would literally explode. Most times it was just a little burp that would only pop apart the slip joints in the tubes but every once in a while it was a huge boom that blew apart the plastic tubes and air filter box, we even had to replace a few hoods that were pushed up from the inside by the force. Beyond this "feature", these cars were just complete garbage. We normally keep our vehicles until about 100,000 miles but these were costing us so much money to keep them going we started selling them early just to get rid of them.

The closest I've ever seen is AMTs 60 F100 promo. Here is a link to a resin 57 on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/...=p2047675.l2557

Thats interesting to know about the axle, I was thinking of switching it out to something more commonly seen.

The two pipes on the air filters means this truck has the tip turbine Mack engine. It was a king of bypass intercooler and was available from 285 to 315 and eventually 350 hp. This system was introduced in the mid to late seventies and was phased out in 86 when Mack redesigned the heads of their straight six engines.

In those days it wasn't uncommon for the cars to be driven to and from the track.

Ahh, the Quad 4, I had thought about posting about my time with the Quad 4 in here but it didn't seem fair because I got the car well after it's prime. We had a Quad 4 in a 91 Cutlass, the valvetrain was so loud at idle you had to turn it off to through a drive through. It finally met it's end under the rear wheels of a semi truck, thankfully no one was injured. The worst vehicle I have ever personally owned was an 89 F-150 4x4. Electrical problems, the TTB front end, an aenemic 302, just poor on so many levels. I fought and fought to keep that thing in running condition and it just wouldn't have it.

The door handle is a bit too high and the character line is not right between the rear window and the top of the rear wheel arch. It looks like the wheel arch is about a 1/16 inch too tall and the character line is about the same too low. The line should be at about a third of the way between the window and the arch but it's closer to half way to two thirds down.

I had an 89 F-150 4x4 with TTB and it was really bad. It was impossible to align and burned through tires every five to ten thousand miles. Everything on the front end needed to be replaced but by the time I owned it that would have pretty much totalled the truck.

The front suspension from the AMT kit is terrible, the Monogram parts are so much better.

My Dad bought a Tempo new in 89 and he put almost 300,000 miles on the car, it never gave us an unusual amount of trouble and was still in decent shape when he gave it to my sisters ex husband who proceeded to drive it into the ground.

It looks like Dodge does the same as Ford in that they add all of the extra bed length at the front of the bed which means you only need to cut one end off. Most fullsize pickup beds are 6 1/2 feet for the short bed and 8 feet for the long bed so will need to remove about three quarters of an inch from the the area ahead of the wheel wells. If you can find a 1:1 subject to get measurements from you can get the exact amout.

The twin I beam suspension came out in 65 for the two wheel drive trucks but the 4x4 trucks still used a solid front axle until 80 when the Twin Traction Beam or TTB front end was designed. Basically they took a Dana 44 center section and stuck it one of the I beams and then ran a drive shaft out of each end to the front wheels.