Fat Brian

They look like the wheels from a Hotwheels Monster Jam truck.

The AMT kit isn't very accurate and really, the stock setup isn't tunable to much beyond factory output either. The stock twins are only good for 10-12 pounds of boost depending on if you have the US steel turbos to the JDM ceramic ones. To get big power out of a 2jz everyone either converts it to a single turbo or replaces the factory twins with beefier ones. I bought the resin single turbo engine for an SC300 project and it is very nice.

The instructions are better/more clear in the Revell version.

The '79 Firestone truck that's out now is as close as you're going to come to that truck. You'll have to sand the trim off and if you're really ambitious convert it back to a standard long bed instead of the camper special the kit represents, taking a quarter inch out in front of the wheel well and adding it behind the wheel well should do it. The camper special also has a toolbox molded into the passenger side bed side which will need to be filled. The kit also has square lights you'll need to fix. The straight six from the Moebius '69 will be perfect for the engine.

The Matador and Pacer should have an AMC 258 I6, I don't know how well you could adapt one to a Chevy application. Even though AMC dug through the other companies trash bins for most of their external engine parts the actual blocks and things were AMC originals.

The plate is so simple to make I don't believe so. Usually the plates are about a half an inch thick or so right? I would just add a piece of sheet plastic to the bottom of whatever carb I'm using, a piece one millimeter thick would represent one scale inch in 1/25, and cut it to match the base plate of the carb. Then just run a wire to it for your NOS line.

Depending on where and how badly the body is warped you can use a hair dryer or dip the body in warm water. You just want to soften the plastic a bit, too much and it will deform.

When I built mine I hated this part. What I did was first glue in the main crossmember pieces, there are little bumps on the inside of the upper frame rail to locate them. I glued them in making sure they stayed pressed firmly against the upper lip of the frame rail. Once they were dry I got the braces cleaned up and turned the frame over. The braces fit one of the small flat surfaces on the bottom of the main crossmember and the other end goes to the lower lip of the frame rail. Basically, the little square pieces hand down at a 45 degree angle and connect the upper crossmember to the bottom lip of the frame rail.

The black smoke is from dumping way too much fuel in the engine and getting incomplete combustion. Diesels should smoke SOME under load but the examples above are pretty far into raging douche bag territory. On the pulling and diesel drag trucks if you notice they smoke the most when they are spooling the turbo up and after the begin their run they clear up to varying degrees.

There is a build thread for this on Hanks truck forum that shows the master being built for this and the NHS-600 engine that goes with it. It looks to be a great kit and worth the money, I've considered getting one myself.

You also have to decide how you want your system to be designed if it's not replicating a stock setup. With twin turbos there are two different ways to plumb them. In most stock two turbo applications the turbos are the same size and both feed air into the intake. On the pulling circuit the turbos are often two differnt sizes with a stockish size turbo used to spool up a gigantic turbo. Ford even used this setup on the Powerstroke for a while. A small quick spooling turbo builds boost at low rpms to reduce turbo lag and as boost pressure increases some boost is diverted to begin spooling the big turbo for high rpm operation.

I use the Walmart gloss black in the blue cans, it says gloss but it has a nice satiny sheen. It doesn't cover the best and takes a few coats but it still does better than Krylon for me, it always crazes or wrinkles on me.

You can add more light coats to cover the black, it will build to a tone about like brushed aluminium on its own.

You might could also use a Munsters Koach kit but you would have to lower it.

Probably a little smaller than 1 millimeter. One full size inch is about one millimeter in 1/25 scale and most A/N fittings are 3/8 to 3/4 of an inch.

That is very nice, I spend about all day around these things and yours looks really good. It's a shame that such a well done kit isn't available anymore.

I'd be in if the price is do-able.

At least it is an easily obtainable kit and not some ebay royalty that will cost a fortune to replace.

Recheck my post, more searching turned up what it was.

It is a 1/50th scale diecast. http://www.dadscats.com/product223.html

That would be good, most sellers I find are from Hong Kong so I'm looking at about $20 a can.

I have used the clear flat and absolutely love it, if I could get it easier I would use it for everything. Since it is an acrylic you can also use it for a barrier coat for thinner based washes and as a base coat over vinyl parts. For any of my tank kits with vinyl tracks the tracks get a bath with this stuff and then I can use my regular paints for details the tracks without them staying sticky forever.

To me the 300 looks and feels like an AMT kit from when they were doing all their great late ninties and early 2000s kits.

The thing with these engines is that they were only really used in race cars so any mounting of accessories is usually a custom job. The alternator does mount down low on the passenger side, a standard 427 water pump bolts to the cam gear cover and there is a spacer on the crank to move it's pulley further forward. You could run the alternator belt as shown above and the blower belt over it, the snout on the blower has to be extended forward to line up with the pulleys.

I don't have it and as of right now don't plan on getting it, the hood would have to open for me to even be interested. I'm sure you can mix in plastic parts where ever you prefer and I'm not a huge fan of the tires either.