Fat Brian

The pics Bill posted illustrate my point, the highest concentration of overspray is within the outer most 6 to 12 inches of the chassis and parts installed later have none on them. This is where research is crucial in doing correct factory stock model. For a custom or even a restomod classic stuff like this doesn't matter but for factory stock it is huge.

I do really need to before they go way up in price, right now you can still find them for a round $40 plus shipping. I remember that one version had a metal barrel and some other goodies in it, I had it bookmarked on ebay but they finally sold them all and now the listing is gone.

The thing about BMF is that it's so thin that it conforms to almost any shape, thicker materials tend to pull up from tight bends and such because the material is thick enough to try to keep its flat shape and the adhesive isn't strong enough to hold it down.

Skip, the link posted in post #12 to oddapps has the download files of old Firefoxes hosted on their site and doesn't rely on Mozilla at all. You can download and install whatever version worked best for you and then just be sure to turn off automatic updates so it won't revert to the newest edition the next time an update is relased. One of my most used programs is a screen capture utility called Hypersnap DX, version 4 is the best because after 4 the free demo versions expire and place watermarks on the image rendering it useless. Through oldapps I can download the old version that works even though the developer doesn't offer it anymore.

On our work trucks the pintle mounts on the frame end cap, for lighter duty applications than ours you can get a combination hitch that combines a ball and pintle and mounts to a flat plate like you have there.

To replicate it correctly you have to think about what is being done to the full size car. The spray pattern of the guns used to paint a car produce a spray that it 6 to 12 inches wide. When painting areas like the lower drip rail of the car you would not expect to see overspray getting on more the very edge of the underside of the car, no more than the 6 to 12 inches of the spray pattern. The rear wheel wells tend to pick up more paint since you have a surface only a foot or so behind the surface being painted that is facing the same direction as the surface being painted. You get almost full coverage on the vertical surface of the inner rear fender but much less on the flat upper areas. It also depends on what parts were installed when the body was painted, this is where research comes into play.

For those who have never used Seafoam, it is more like kerosene than soap and doesn't actually foam. This is probably the result of a trip through a car wash with way to much soapy water getting into the cowl air vents.

When we apply "from scratch" to cooking it means combining ingredients to make a finished food item. To make a cake from scratch we combine flour, sugar, baking power, eggs, oil, and whatever flavoring you desire to make the batter instead of using a box of cake mix, which is kind of like a cake "kit". In cooking I have never understood "from scratch" to mean growing the wheat and milling the flour and growing the sugar cane and processing it into sugar and raising the hens that lay the eggs and so forth so "scratchbuilt" to me would mean using readily available materials to create a thing instead of a prearranged group of components.

It seems you have it in hand. If you can get the hood and front and rear ends from bandit without buying the body that would be the way to go. I would much rather chop on a styrene body than a resin one if I have a choice. After some Googling and Wiki-ing you shouldn't have much trouble using the 69 body. There was a change to the Cutlass line that started in 70 that would have made the job slightly more difficult since the convertible switched form being based on the sports roof body like the 69 kit to being based on the supreme body which was shared with the longer Grand Prix and Monte Carlo.

You are correct, I have nothing to offer in my defense and beg for the mercy of the court.

Maybe my I haven't earned my c r a p priviledges yet, when I type it it shows up all pound signs.

You can get a very shiny chrome-like appearance out of it. Once it's on you can polish it with wax just like paint and bring it to a pretty high gloss IF you got it smooth enough when putting it down. If you have some it might be worth it to just try it on an area of a body to see if it's a road you want to go down.

Wow, even the name of the thing that teaches you how to use names can't stick with it's own.

I have a question, why does the language filter allow damned but not c r a p?

Nope, this is Grammar 101.

It's possible but a severe PITA. I've seen aircraft guys cover an entire plane with it but today the most common method is Alclad.

That is probably a good idea, you never when some of it may fall in your lap and with the frame you will be able to build it.

The making old maps into decals is cool idea, you could even find the sections where they drew the feared sea monsters in different areas of the ocean. That would also help with the weathered, yellowed paper patina.

That frame is no longer available in that form and is needed to be able to build the AMT Kenworth W900A 925 kit. If you have or can find some more of the original 925 parts you can rebuild a somewhat rare and pricey kit.

You might try using a finer brush to be able to make thinner points on the palm fronds and things. Also, you might need to thin the paint some to keep it from chunking up. I have tried to use those hobby acrylic paints and after you paint for a bit the brush begins to gob up with half dried paint.

I think you might have more Petty cars than Richard did.

Is this the AFV Club Shot Kal, I have inteded to get that one for a long time and just never have.

Wow, that Challenge mixer is a rare kit. It's good to see one get built instead of being someones retirement plan.

Yikes, I hope you get your money back.