Fat Brian

It appears to be the same Datsun 720 truck the are still reissuing as a lowrider today, the "track" is probably just a typo. Here is the pic And here is a Toyota Hilux from the same set

Even up to the T600A the AMT Kenworths have an auxillary transmission. With the Maixtorque transmission is there any way to split the gears or is it just five speeds? It seems like you would run out of gear with only five speeds.

Just like every other Japanese manufacturer their car kits are a mix of curbside and full detail so if an engine is important to you it is wise to double check before finalizing the transaction.

That almost looks like a Johan Boss 429 from one of the Boss Hoss or Pinto funny car kits but with a modern style intake. At first I thought is was the modern 4.6 or 5.4 mod motor but the valve covers aren't long enough and they have the raised areas that are characteristic of the 429. EDIT: Nope, the Johan parts are way better and more detailed than those, they must be from some AMT/MPC annual kit. Some of those have pretty basic looking pieces and these are a little soft looking.

Do any of the Mack kits have this setup in them?

Was the Baldwin Motion Cobra Revell had out a few years ago based on this kit?

That is another thing I see a lot especially in regard to Macks is 5x4, what exactly does that mean?

It depends on what options it has, it could be be a hemi car.

That is neat, I have a long stalled Starliner project with a similar theme.

Rebar is tough because the texture on it is raised not engraved. You might be able come up with something but it will be hard.

In another thread we had about clearing over Alclad the general concensus was that it doesn't work very well, it still causes the silvering everything else does.

With all of the semi kits out now and their various engines and transmissions and uses I began to wonder what different combinations could be used for different purposes. Basically I want to make sure that I use parts that would make sense for the intended job. For example, on a long hual OTR truck with a straight six diesel engine should I use a ten speed transmission or a sixteen speed? For the same truck with a Detroit V engine is the same transmission appropriate or should it have more speeds or less speeds, the AMT K100 kit has an 8v92 and an Allison auto which only has five or six speeds I believe. Can the Allison transmission be used with a straight six engine or would you need an auxillary unit to split the gears to make it work. I just want to make something that would be realistic.

The pics Bill posted illustrate my point, the highest concentration of overspray is within the outer most 6 to 12 inches of the chassis and parts installed later have none on them. This is where research is crucial in doing correct factory stock model. For a custom or even a restomod classic stuff like this doesn't matter but for factory stock it is huge.

I do really need to before they go way up in price, right now you can still find them for a round $40 plus shipping. I remember that one version had a metal barrel and some other goodies in it, I had it bookmarked on ebay but they finally sold them all and now the listing is gone.

The thing about BMF is that it's so thin that it conforms to almost any shape, thicker materials tend to pull up from tight bends and such because the material is thick enough to try to keep its flat shape and the adhesive isn't strong enough to hold it down.

Skip, the link posted in post #12 to oddapps has the download files of old Firefoxes hosted on their site and doesn't rely on Mozilla at all. You can download and install whatever version worked best for you and then just be sure to turn off automatic updates so it won't revert to the newest edition the next time an update is relased. One of my most used programs is a screen capture utility called Hypersnap DX, version 4 is the best because after 4 the free demo versions expire and place watermarks on the image rendering it useless. Through oldapps I can download the old version that works even though the developer doesn't offer it anymore.

On our work trucks the pintle mounts on the frame end cap, for lighter duty applications than ours you can get a combination hitch that combines a ball and pintle and mounts to a flat plate like you have there.

To replicate it correctly you have to think about what is being done to the full size car. The spray pattern of the guns used to paint a car produce a spray that it 6 to 12 inches wide. When painting areas like the lower drip rail of the car you would not expect to see overspray getting on more the very edge of the underside of the car, no more than the 6 to 12 inches of the spray pattern. The rear wheel wells tend to pick up more paint since you have a surface only a foot or so behind the surface being painted that is facing the same direction as the surface being painted. You get almost full coverage on the vertical surface of the inner rear fender but much less on the flat upper areas. It also depends on what parts were installed when the body was painted, this is where research comes into play.

For those who have never used Seafoam, it is more like kerosene than soap and doesn't actually foam. This is probably the result of a trip through a car wash with way to much soapy water getting into the cowl air vents.

When we apply "from scratch" to cooking it means combining ingredients to make a finished food item. To make a cake from scratch we combine flour, sugar, baking power, eggs, oil, and whatever flavoring you desire to make the batter instead of using a box of cake mix, which is kind of like a cake "kit". In cooking I have never understood "from scratch" to mean growing the wheat and milling the flour and growing the sugar cane and processing it into sugar and raising the hens that lay the eggs and so forth so "scratchbuilt" to me would mean using readily available materials to create a thing instead of a prearranged group of components.

It seems you have it in hand. If you can get the hood and front and rear ends from bandit without buying the body that would be the way to go. I would much rather chop on a styrene body than a resin one if I have a choice. After some Googling and Wiki-ing you shouldn't have much trouble using the 69 body. There was a change to the Cutlass line that started in 70 that would have made the job slightly more difficult since the convertible switched form being based on the sports roof body like the 69 kit to being based on the supreme body which was shared with the longer Grand Prix and Monte Carlo.

You are correct, I have nothing to offer in my defense and beg for the mercy of the court.

Maybe my I haven't earned my c r a p priviledges yet, when I type it it shows up all pound signs.

You can get a very shiny chrome-like appearance out of it. Once it's on you can polish it with wax just like paint and bring it to a pretty high gloss IF you got it smooth enough when putting it down. If you have some it might be worth it to just try it on an area of a body to see if it's a road you want to go down.