Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Fat Brian

Members
  • Posts

    4,313
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Fat Brian

  1. It's another of those mid-nineties toolings they've tweaked on a bit over the years. It's a very nice kit that's a fairly straight forward build if I remember correctly.
  2. A good rule of thumb is to wait until you can't smell the paint anymore. Some people use a modified food dehydrator or a curing booth made with an incandescent light bulb to speed this process up.
  3. I hadn't seen Tim post it but I had seen you link to it in another thread and I didn't want to seem to be taking credit for it.
  4. I was just saying that if you can't sand around them and loose them it's not a big deal.
  5. Here's a pic of the real trucks roof Chuck Most originally posted in another thread, the only rivets are a small strip in the center.
  6. Two part epoxy type putties don't shrink which is great if you need a thick layer for a major fix. The cab seam can be done close enough that you don't need anything special. I use Squadron white putty for most of my filling needs and as long as you let it dry fully before sanding it shrinkage shouldn't be an issue. Also, the rivet detail on the cab is wrong so by losing you are improving the accuracy of the kit.
  7. Sometimes transmissions were left manufacturer color and other times they were painted with the partially assembled frame, there was really no rhyme or reason as to why one truck was one way and another was the other. So with that being said it's hard to be "wrong" as long as you have a good explanation as to how it got that way.
  8. I might have it, it looks like a stock color called Sunset Orange 064.
  9. That's odd, I normally replicate VTEC sounds after eating at a Mexican restaurant.
  10. Thanks, I will take a look at that. Terry, I bought a 6-71 from Spaulding just for this.
  11. There is a kit of the Orange Blossom Special Chevy pulling truck and a fictional car called Tennesee Thunder but both are pretty expensive. There is a guy here who has a build thread at the link beloew, it looks pretty nice. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=97758
  12. I need help figuring out the color of a future project. It's an odd seventies orange that is a bit lighter than anything I've seen out there. Does anyone know what this color is called?
  13. It's a great value no doubt, these look like they have less flash than some new kits.
  14. This is really what they mean, it's a modern tooling compared to one done when the real car was new. These kits are on par with anything Revell is doing now even though it's approaching twenty years old.There are parts of the 66 which are new, the body and taillights and maybe a few other bits but even the old stuff is quite well done.
  15. Casey, isn't this by the guy in Romania that did the 65 Ford with the dump bed and the Kenworth log truck? Here is the engine: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cummins-Diesel-Engine-1-25-scale-resin-kit-/221705623599?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339eaf582f Here is the Ford cab: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-N-950-1965-full-cab-1-25-resin-kit-/221715575974?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339f4734a6 And here is the Kenworth: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kenworth-924-Logger-Full-cab-1-25-scale-resin-kit-/221705649449?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339eafbd29 These look like incredible but they're pretty spendy.
  16. The Revell step side is 1/25 and it fits with this bed like it was made for it, I dug all of this stuff out today and checked it. Who would be a good caster to approach about this? I'm not really trying to make any money, Id just like a few copies.
  17. The 65 and 66 kit are based on a tool that was done in the late nineties. They are pretty good and don't usually have major fit issues. The main difference in the kits is that the 65 has the six round taillights while the 66 has the small square ones but both are correct to the year they represent. Both kits have a big block engine.
  18. There is a class that is gaining some popularity in which you can run just about any motor you want but you have to run a 10.5 inch wide tire. It's meant to somewhat level the competition because the big motor guys just sit there smoking if the can't hook up. Most of the bodies in this class are stock or close to it since most cars can take 10.5s with just a mini tub.
  19. I don't know yet, that's why I wanted to see if I can get copies made, it lessens the pressure of only having one. I have an extra cab from the donor kit for the bed, I need to see if it matches the 70's Revell stepside cab too.
  20. I wouldn't go so far as to call it a great kit but with some work it can turn out nice.
  21. Does anyone make a resin long bed for the Fall Guy truck? If not, would anyone who casts resin be interested in copying mine?
  22. The waterbased paint will work fine over the Alclad to protect it from the tire, I can't speak to how it would affect the finish on the face of the rim because everything seems to affect Alclad differently. Ben is correct that Future will do the same thing, you just need anything that the softeners in the tire can't penetrate.
  23. Check this link out, I believe it's the Ford four hole wheels you're looking for. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Resin-Dually-Duallie-Pickup-Truck-Wheels-Rims-Set-Tow-Truck-Wrecker-1-24-1-25-/391074493246?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b0ddb333e
  24. A layer of water based paint where the rim contacts the tire should do it, you just need a barrier coat in there.
×
×
  • Create New...