Fat Brian

I would be interested in a D150 if it had the older grill like this one. http://image.moparmusclemagazine.com/f/dodge85/27673343+w450+h338+cr0+re1+ar1/1985-dodge-d150-pickup-2.jpg

The body of these kits aren't bad, it's the chassis that is lacking. If you want to make it better swap in the chassis from the AMT 69 Cutlass W-30 which, while still not quite up to modern standards, is leaps and bounds better than the Chevelle unit. Both of these kits can be had very cheap, with some careful shopping you'll probably only be in it for the cost of a kit fresh off the shelf.

That's incredible, sometimes you get lucky.

That Mustang is so cool.

Is it a Renault gearbox or a wrong attempt at a MACK unit.

I don't.

The DM800 engine is an ENDT-864, I believe the kit replicates a '66 model vehicle because it has the shallow cab. This engine became the 865 which lasted until the late seventies with a few small changes.

The only other kit of that I can find was done by IMC back in the sixties which makes sense because Testors did release other IMC kits. If it is there's it should be decent but kind of fiddly, IMC originally made the Dodge L700 that was recently released under the Lindberg name and you can read some threads about it to get an idea of their quality. Their kits were ambitious for their time but the execution was spotty.

The E9 and it's transmission from Auslowe would be a good start. It's cast from a Renault 1/24 kit so it is the correct scale though you could use the 864/865 out of the DM800 in a pinch to replicate an early model Superliner. Then you would need a Mack specific rear suspension, be it camelback or Mack air ride. The hardest part is that the frame needs to flair out in the front like the DM600 and 800 frames. Italeri created some accuracy issues using the FLC chassis for the Superliner and LTL kits, it just depends on how committed you are to fixing them. I got the E9 for mine but I'm not messing with the frame,

It depends on who made the original kit, some are reboxes of Fujimi kits and are good to excellent while kits from other manufacturers can be pretty bad. You really have to go kit by kit, since they are all repops of other companies kits there isn't a "brand quality" that is consistent one to another.

Most of the warped bodies I've encountered have been due to the way the box was packed. The body gets too much pressure on it and takes on the squished shape.

I cut the windows out of the top of my sleeper and made it almost a flat top, it looks much better. I'm also going to add the air deflector from the Revell Peterbilts to the top of the cab.

You might ought to check it out if you're going to build it. I bought a still sealed one off evilbay and when I opened it the cab was crushed.

If I can come up with something good I might see if someone will cast them, I can see myself needing quite a few.

I don't think the stock version will have any extra parts be I'll bet there will be a drag version coming soon.

TAKE MY MONEY PLEASE!!!!!!

I was confused until I saw the Souith Carolina plate and then it all made sense.

The Broncos worked out to about $50 a piece, not bad for wrapped ones. The Bison was $45 and the wrecker was $60, guess who's been working overtime lately. I'm working on a 5 ton axle. I'm going to try to combine the center section from the Bronco axles with the steering knuckles and brake drums from the Jurassic Attack axles.

It was like Christmas morning when I came home from work today.

Man, it just gets better every time I see it.

In the first few episodes of TG USA they did have a Stig character and had celebrities race around a track but that stopped and it was just the three guys doing whatever thing they decided to do.

I have plenty of kits to work on, it's just that my interests shift faster than I can build. One day I'm working on a semi truck and then I want to build a rat rod and then something else. I try to keep my focus to finish something but if I force it too long I get burned out. I also keep a notebook like Greg of things I really want to build with what parts to use and things I need to scratchbuild, not all of my builds are so planned out but some are pretty specific.

If you wanted to get ambitious you could use this body over the recently tooled AMT 60 Starliner chassis.

I don't normally prime parts I'm going to brush paint but since in this case they're molded in black I can see why it would be a good idea. For that purpose I would use something cheap like Walmart flat gray, there's no sense in using an expensive primer when you're brushing over it.

This kit has a one piece chassis with metal axles, typical early 60's construction. If you like the outside but want to spruce up the underside you could use the chassis from the 65 Galaxie, it might not be 100% accurate but it's miles ahead of what it's got.