Fat Brian

Bill, you are so right about the automotive culture of the time. My dad bough his first car in 1974, it was a 68 Ford LTD with a 428CJ and the police interceptor package. When he was little older and making decent money he traded that car in on a new 1977 Pacer loaded with all the options. At the time this seemed like a logical decision and only in hindsight, knowing now how prized muscle cars are today, does it seem like something done by a mentally challenged person.

I built a 4-53 a while back, it wasn't too bad. You'll need the gear covers from an 8v-71 out of an AMT semi kit, the basic block is pretty easy to scratch together.

Thanks, Terry. That gives me some guidance.

I've ordered some of their axles and suspension parts, everything looked nice and the shipping was quick.

Like others have said, I was interested in mechanical things from very early. I had Matchbox cars and Tonka toys, I got my first Lego set at about four. My dad built models as a kid but stopped some time in his early twenties, his last kit was a Monogram IMSA Mustang. My first kit was a snap version of the USS Yorktown bought on the ship at Patriots Point in Charleston SC when I was seven or eight. Within a year or so I got my first car kit, Mark Martin's #6 Folgers Thunderbird. I think I used a whole tube of glue on it and once it was dry it didn't last long as I barrel rolled it down our hallway mimicking NASCAR crashes of the day. My dad gave me his old model stuff at this point and I built several more NASCAR kits along with some Lindberg tanks and the old Monogram A-10. I never really took a break though I've had periods where I couldn't really build due to living space.

Alright, thanks guys. I'll have to make some plans to get out there.

Why did I not know about this, I live like 20 minutes from Lincolnton!

That first one reminds me of the guys that do the lawn mower tractor pulls.

This is where someone else will have to help, you can brush it on straight from the bottle and it's self leveling to a point but it's too thick to airbrush straight and I don't know what you cut it with. There is a thread about it in the Tips and Tricks section.

I would try the first one in the clear bottle.

I've been through the spotter guide but it doesn't include the 350 model.

I'd like to build a 350 Pete and in looking at pictures there seems to be two cabs used, the 40's cab with the square corners on the inside of the windshields and a cab used in the 50's that looks very much like the Unilite cab with thick window gaskets and a prominent drip rail around the cab. Is the Cali Hauler cab close enough to be backdated to a mid fifties model by adding the drip rail and wider gaskets? It doesn't have to be 100% accurate as the truck will be a custom unit but close would be nice. 40's cab with square inner windshield corners https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5460/9863690975_700484c333_b.jpg 50's cab with wide gaskets and drip rail https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7168/6781679081_d8eef12cd8_z.jpg

I think it's still called Pledge with Future Shine.

You would have to do a lot of modifying to the 84 chassis, the fender wells are molded to the frame on the 84 but are molded to the cab of the 72 one set will have to go. Plus, the suspension parts in the 84 aren't that great anyway. If you have a Blazer to spare or don't mind picking up a donor and are going for a pretty stock ride height I would start with it's chassis and stretch it to fit.

I know the kit you're talking about, it's the Revell Night Rider pickup. I was part of a series of Revell trucks that also included a fleet side. dually, and Bronco in 1/25 scale. Here is a picture of the kit. Here is a link to an ebay listing of the kit, this is a decent price for it for a Buy it Now. You might find it a bit cheaper in an auction but sometimes I like the certainty of just buying it outright, I paid this much for this same kit earlier this year. http://www.ebay.com/itm/REVELL-SNAP-KIT-NIGHT-RIDER-FORD-FLARESIDE-4X4-1-24-MODEL-CAR-MOUNTAIN-KIT-FS-/142097496876?hash=item2115abbb2c:g:LtwAAOSwdzVXjlNg

That is a valid suggestion.

Is there a way for someone without Facebook to vote?

I believe the truck started as a 74 model, a single axle was available in the torsion bar setup and based on the few pictures I could find the kit parts are pretty accurate.

We've all straightened bodies under hot running water and most household water heaters are set at 120° so even that lower temp can have some softening effect. Multiply that by several hours a day for a couple of weeks for the average Pacific crossing plus the pressure from a tightly packed box and I'm sure there will be some warping.

I have to agree with Matt about the container issue, I accidentally left a kit on the package shelf of my car for a few weeks during the summer and when I finally got back to it the kit was a ruined mess. A container of model kits probably weighs a lot less than a lot of the other things being sent over so it's more likely to end up higher on the ship or toward the outside where it could end up cooking in the sun.

Why go to all the trouble for an L88 scoop when you could use the teardrop and be Ford loyal?

It looks like it, the decals are the same as the ones in the Monogram kit.

If you want to build the Days of Thunder cars without worrying about bleed through buy the 1991 Darrel Waltrip Western Auto Lumina #2949 that's molded in white and pick up the decals separately.

Not really a specific car but definitely paints a vivid picture. David Wilcox - Rusty Old American Dream

When that kit first came out there was a Sketchpad feature done on it and the one that stuck with me and I'm going to try to build was a graft of the then new Charger front end and replacing the top with something more modern along with a Viper engine. It was kind of in the style of Troy Trepanier.